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Coadey

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Everything posted by Coadey

  1. Thanks for the tip on the contacts, I'll give that a try! As far as aesthetics, I was actually thinking of putting the Ping battery inside the existing Cyclamatic enclosure. I haven't opened it to see if that's doable though, and I'm mostly curious about the 15AH version to make it worthwhile.
  2. Thanks flecc, it's too bad these bargain batteries don't last more than 2 years. I've been reading a lot about batteries on the forum and I keep seeing mentions of a "Ping" battery. Are they easy enough to use as drop-in replacements, or should I just stick with a Cyclamatic replacement? The later is fully assembled in the proper enclosure for £30 more: 24V 10AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack Cyclamatic Foldaway Battery - The Sports HQ If the Ping batteries are easy enough to use, could I upgrade from 10AH to 15AH? 24V 15AH V2.5 LiFePO4 Battery Pack Thanks again!
  3. Hi all, My 18-month-old Cyclamatic has started acting up again and I'd really appreciate any advice. In short the BMS on the battery seems to be shutting down due to Low Voltage Cutoff before its indicator shows a low charge. The battery pack is a 24V 10A Li-ion. I'm fairly sure it's an LVC problem because it happens anytime the pack reaches 23.7V under load. I believe it's the BMS because even the onboard charge indicator turns off. The result is my powered range has been reduced to 4 - 6 miles, and towards that point, forces me to stop and turn the pack off and on again constantly. Some measurements: At full charge (which I do after every journey) the pack shows 29.3V when idle, and dips a variable amount under load, at most down to 28.2V or so. After around 4 miles it reaches 27.9V idle, and struggles intermittently to stay above LVC (wind gust or climb = stop and reset). At over 5 miles it shows 27.2V idle and can only handle a few seconds even on level terrain. What might cause the pack to hit its LVC while the charge indicator is full bars? Wouldn't the BMS work around any failing/under-performing cell(s)? Is there anything I can do to prevent it from hitting the LVC so that it might continue providing whatever amperage it's capable of (at say 27.5V?) until it's truly at low charge? Thanks in advance!
  4. To follow up: I ended up ordering a replacement hall sensor from proto-pic.com. After replacing the old one, the sensor delivered a variable 0v - 4.7v depending on throttle position, but it still wouldn't trigger power to the motor (probably because it didn't match the old sensor voltage output closely enough). I had a replacement 24V throttle sent to me from d8veh (thank you!!) and after installing it the problem was fixed. Thanks everyone for the help, it was a good learning experience.
  5. Thanks vhfman, that's exactly it! Any idea where I could get a replacement? Edit: This seems to be the spec sheet for the AH49E: AH49E pdf, AH49E description, AH49E datasheets, AH49E view ::: ALLDATASHEET ::: I found a couple of potentially similar sensors which accept a wider voltage range: Hall Effect Sensor - SparkFun - COM-09312 - Proto-PIC.co.uk - UK Suppliers of Electonics - Robotics - SparkFun - LilyPad - Arduino Hall Effect Sensor - RobotShop Also this thread pointed me to a few more on rs-online.com: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/electric-bicycles/6743-broke-my-throttle.html The closest matching ones seem to be these two, but can only be had in quantities of 5 or more: Allegro Microsystems | Semiconductors | Sensors and Transducers | Hall Effect Sensor | Sensor Interfaces |A1302KUA-T Allegro Microsystems | Semiconductors | Sensors and Transducers | Hall Effect Sensor | Sensor Interfaces |A1301EUA-T I might try ordering some of those unless anyone has a better suggestion.
  6. I tried bridging the red and green at the hall sensor and the motor kicked in for a split second. It wouldn't go any longer than that, but I don't know if that's just part of the logic or a safety mechanism for short circuits. So at this point it sounds like I should try replacing the hall sensor, and if that fails, the whole throttle. Any idea where to get a replacement sensor (I can't seem to find the specs for the "S 49E 929"). I'll PM to see about that 24V you might have. Thanks again!
  7. Thanks for replying so fast. The switch does cut power to both the throttle and pedal sensor (when "off", there is 0v across all 3 hall sensor pins). As far as polarity, even waving a refrigerator magnet over the sensor has no effect. I'm surprised the controller isn't seeing this as a "full throttle" signal? Any idea if I can simulate what the hall sensor would normally send to the controller (e.g. should the green signal wire have 0v when at full throttle)?
  8. Thanks for the tips, I tested the connections to the Hall sensor although the wiring colors are different. There are 4 wires running to the sensor (a red and black wire are soldered together at the middle pin). Continuity tested good from the the controller box to the sensor and other points, so the wiring and solder connections look good. When powered up, here are the values I get: Red-to-Green: 4.72 v Red-to-Red/Black: 4.72 v Green-to-Red/Black: 0 v The values don't change at all even when the throttle is twisted. The metal strip on the throttle can hold a paperclip so I know it's magnetized. So would this be a sensor failure? http://coadey.com/hall.jpg
  9. Hi fellow ebikers, I have a 2009 "Cyclamatic Power Plus" (24V Li-ion) which had been reliable up until yesterday when the throttle control spontaneously stopped responding. The pedal assist still works fine but twisting the throttle simply has no effect. I disassembled the throttle-and-LED switch housing (Wuxing S29X-DX). The metal strip is in place, the hall sensor (S 49E 929) is connected, LEDs work as expected, as does the on-off switch. I also opened up the controller bay under the battery and made sure all the connections there were sound, which they seem to be. Does anyone have any tips on troubleshooting this further? Is there a common cause for this, could a controller fault be responsible, etc? I'm considering buying a volt meter to check continuity and voltages but don't know what the values should be. http://www.coadey.com/throttle.jpg
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