karl101

The one I posted? Yes, you can take that. Karl.

So, after eleven years of pedaling the old Wisper 905SEL is now in the hands of the local charity bike recycling centre. They weren't keen to take it, saying they couldn't recycle the battery as they were a commercial organisation. Eventually they accepted it when i said it was still good for 20 miles. Karl.

Hello David, Yes I use the bike regularly for the daily commute, and at work its parked up outside in the elements. I think this has happened because the cable exit to the brake is pointing upwards and the cable has a dip in it, so when it rains water gets in but can't drain out, so despite regular oiling it still rusts. I'll get it all sorted this weekend, and get it back on the road. I'm half thinking of fitting hydraulic brakes, like those on the current model. Obviously as the brake levers have switches in them I'll be needing Wisper parts. How much would it cost me for the parts (not labour) to replace the brakes? Karl.

That's good, and the existing sleeve is 150cm, so it'll cut to fit. Cheap as chips too. I was thinking of getting a stainless steel cable, which won't rot http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/fibrax-stainless-steel-brake-wire Karl.

Hello, A year and a bit later with the sicking getting progressively worse, I finally got off my idle backside and investigated properly. Took the cable out and came across this: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3825/11950577535_18426d2e13.jpg As the cable exit hole to the rear brake points upwards it looks to me that water had gotten in, accumulated at lowest point and rotted the cable. So I've now cleaned the sleeving with soapy water, loads of WD-40 and can of bike oil that contains PTFE and just need to get a new cable this weekend. Karl.

Hello, I'm after a hat to keep my forehead and ears warm. The wind-chill factor when hurtling along the mean streets at this time of year causes frostbite. All the hats I've had so far are pushed up my head from the back by the collar of the coat, so the hat ends up delicately poised on the top of my head, so I have to concentrate on thinking my head is expanding to keep it on my head. So can you recommend me a hat?, not a cycle helmet, a warm hat. Karl.

The tyres were less than a year old, so was rather annoyed when it happened, no I idea how long they'd been in the shop though.

Photos of the imminent failure, these were on the rear tyre: Fit to Burst | Flickr - Photo Sharing! close up: Fit To Burst - Detail | Flickr - Photo Sharing! The front went the same way about three months later. I kept them inflated to the maximum pressure as it said on the tyre. Karl.

I have a pair of Marathon Plus, best tyres I've ever had. But pump them up hard, towards the maximum psi, the high pressure makes pointy things bounce off. The Continental tyres I had previously split and almost let the inner tube burst out (I have photos). Also, for road use, bicycle tyres do not need a tread, read this: Cycle Tyres and Tubes it all makes sense. K.

Well, new tyre fitted, been out for 10 mile test ride and I'm sure it's faster than the old one. Bit worried about the motor power cable where it enters the axle though: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8263/8710960460_56f625f75b_z.jpg In the end I used a combination of spoons (one of which I bent) and new plastic tyre levers that didn't break, although I'm sure they will. Karl.

Hello, The other day I noticed a number of tears in the wall of my rear tyre: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8271/8698486567_1d519980eb_z.jpg The Shocking Detail: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8406/8698486683_d297bf1b7b_z.jpg The tyre is a Continental Travel Contact, regularly inflated to 50psi and it is less than a year old, its rather disappointing. I've now bought a Schwlabe unplattbar tyre to replace it and I now have the treat of taking the back wheel off my Wisper 905SEL without getting the power cable twisted and in a state of doubt. And how come nowadys all tyre levers are rubbish? made out of useless easy break plastic. Back when I were a lad, these were made out of metal and did the job. Karl.

This isn't moisture. The bike had been indoors for three days before, and it wasn't raining.

Hello, With the recent cold weather the rear brake on my Wisper 905 SEL keeps freezing, the lever becomes locked solid and the brake won't engage. Its the early version of the bike with the cable brakes. The brake itself is OK and the lever the cable attaches to moves as expected. It seems to me that there is some oil in the brake sleeve that is solidifying in the cold. As soon as I get the bike somewhere warm the cable frees up and the brake works. Any suggestions on how to fix this, clean the cable, without having to remove the cable or sleeving from the bike? Karl.

Thanks for the info. I've installed a new bottom bracket and re-used the spacers that came with the bike. Instead of a washer for the magnetic disc, I've made a shimmy from an old stainless steel bowl, this is quite a bit less than 1mm thick. Karl

Hello, I've cleaned up the crankshaft, removed the melted on bearing ring, the melted plastic from the bracket and the embedded ball bearings. You can see in the picture that the plastic is a little melted. The question is do I put a washer between the plastic magnet ring and the new bottom bracket? http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8082744935_785179b9f0_z.jpg I got a washer from the bike shop, its 3mm thick and is 26mm in diameter larger than the 24mm crank and is 3mm wide. If I were to fit a washer I think I'd prefer something thinner and wider. Thanks Karl.