John L

I've had 2 bike conversions over the years both of which were unrestricted. They were quick but this time I wanted a legal bike for fitness and one that is covered by warranty. I might think about it when the warranty is up.

Hi Baz. I wasn't sitting on the bike when I compared the 42c with the 35c tyres. There was only a couple of mil of a difference! Maybe sitting on the bike would help to show a greater difference. In the meantime I've taken the gps off the bike so it won't wreck by head:).

Cheers Marcus. Its due a free service in 6 weeks so I'll ask them to input a smaller circumference at that stage. I'm loving the bike as it is. Getting a little more out of it would be a bonus.

You're right Andy:) The 42c should read 222cm. I got the measurements from a cateye pdf about setting up one of their speedos. Unfortunately only a dealer can change the circumference on the purion display. I'll have a chat with them. I think they can only go up or down by 5%. If I had the intuvia display I could change it myself. Cheers John

Hmmm moving magnet back or forward didnt have any noticeable effect. Hi Andy. I measured out both the 42c and 35c tyres on the ground and there was little or no difference! The 42c wasnt as well pumped as the 35c tyre (stand pump broke). In theory there should be 5cm in the difference (217cm v 220cm). 5cm every revolution - would that make that much difference? I imagine it would certainly make a difference but 1 mph seems high. John

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll move it back a bit and give it a go.

Interesting thanks:). Defo something to keep in mind. Just came across this discussion https://electricbikereview.com/forum/threads/changing-tires-wheels-on-bosch-ebike.22377/ As I have a purion display it looks like I have to get the dealer to plug into it to change the tyre circumference.

Thanks. I'm reluctant at such an early stage (less than a weeks ownership) to tune it. If there's nothing else I can do I'll think about.

Hi guys. I've given up on my kit conversion and bought a Cube hybrid cross 500 all road. Very happy with the bike. However I've noticed that my garmin gps is at least 1mph slower than the speed recorded on the purion display. The actual speed doesn't bother me but the idea that the sensor is shutting off assist before reaching the legal limit annoys me. I did change the tyres from the smart sams (42c) to marathon plus (35c). Unfortunately I didn't attach the gps before changing them. The bosch active line plus sensor uses a magnet which probably does depend on wheel diameter. Would a smaller tyre make such a difference? What do you think?

Thanks Neal

Lol there's always something. The 9v battery in the meter is dead. None in the house so it'll have to wait till later.

With all 4 leds lit it looks like it is charged ok - subject to not being able to trust it. I can't figure how I might have touched the probes together. Only one probe is damaged and with the rubber insulation I can barely get them into the plugs holes. But it must be something like that. After carefully inserting the probes again this morning I'm getting no reading which means either I can't make contact with both connectors or I damaged the meter:(

Well I opened the battery case and all looks fine (if that means anything!) No funny smells or obvious damage. After putting the case together again I connected the charger up and it began charging. I pressed the charge indicator on the battery case (my head is fried because I hadn't even noticed that there was one until I'd taken the case apart!!) I think that shows full charge (though I'm not sure why the red light is also showing. I then tried to connect the battery to the base and it connected though I think its a very delicate connection. The lcd lit up and I'm now showing 55.3V which is overcharged. Again I'm not sure what that means. Does it mean that the battery is in fact fully charged and that the LCD indicator is just inaccurate (though it previously indicated a fully charged battery). In any event the connector needs to be replaced. If I can get the right one it would as Neal suggests be easy enough to solder a new one in. I think I've located one online (https://www.greenbikekit.com/accessories/ebike-connectors-cables/e-bike-tigershark-frame-battery-plug-2p-6pins.html) but I don't know anything about the company. Anyone any experience of greenbikekit.com? Or does anyone know where else I could get one?

The lcd display indicated half charge. Previously it was showing full charge. When I put a meter across the discharge plug something shorted and one of the pins in the connector is now burned out. Not sure what exactly happened but the pin is melted and the tip of the probe of my meter also melted.

Yep it's the dolphin 09 case that fits into a base with a built in controller. I'll open it tomorrow and see what can seen and go from there. Thanks.

Wow Neal in a perverted way that does make me feel better:) Well done on the fast repair. The fuse looks in tact and the switch button lights up when depressed. I'm not sure how well you can see the damage from this photo. But the negative connector is more or less gone. It does look as if the connector housing unscrews so maybe I could replace it.

Thank you flecc. I wasn't sure if 2mm would be ok. Much better value than what I paid for the wrong ones today!

Well at least I managed to get the spoke in. It dawned on me that I could get the new spoke between the opposing spokes with a little bending as you suggested. Unfortunately the new spoke is too short by 3mm or so. I can screw the nipple in but I think too much of the thread is showing for it to be secure. So I have to find somewhere to buy 250mm 13 gauge spokes.

Thanks Andy. Some say spoke adjustment and wheel rebuilding is doable but to me its a dark art. Thanks for the youtube links. I hadn't seen some of them. I'm a bit deflated after ruining the battery (see above) so I'll have to reconsider how I proceed now.

I thought it was a bit high and certainly too high to match the 50% charge indicator. Anyway its academic now as I think I have completely ruined the battery:( I put a meter across the connectors of the battery and bang - nearly lost my thumb!! Thankfully it was only blackened after the flash.... but it looks like one of the connectors from the battery has melted and I can't switch the lcd on at all now. I'm not sure what I did wrong but I think I'm lucky I didn't hurt myself. I'm not feeling confident about dismantling the battery to see if anything else has blown (visual check) and if the connector can be replaced in the housing. What do you think Neal?

Thanks Neal. The problem I have is that the spoke goes straight into the hole on the flange and across to the opposing spokes before I can turn it up towards up towards the rim. The overlap of the opposing spokes won't allow me to turn it up. Does that make sense? I feel I missing something but I can't see what.

Hi guys After developing some problems with my conversion of a 29er MTB I dismantled the build and recreated the bike as originally designed. Lately I have started to think about buying a new ready built ebike but realised that it would be much cheaper to get my old kit up and running again. So maybe someone can help me to solve a few problems. Following great advice I received here about 2 years ago, the conversion kit was put together with a Q128C motor 700c wheel, controller etc from BMSBattery and a Dolphin 48V 12Ah (samsung 30Q) frame battery from Eclipsebikes (see https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/which-kit.28397/ ). I was delighted with the build. The problems started with the rear wheel. After several hundred miles the spokes started to work loose and the wheel developed a bit of a buckle. I managed to get a reluctant bike shop to true the wheel for me (essentially they didn't want to touch it as they didn't sell me the bike). That seemed fine and I cycled a little longer. When winter came I put the bike aside in my shed. Early the following spring (2018) I took the bike out for a spin. After its first short spin I recharged the battery and put it on the bike. The display showed that the battery was only charged to 50%. Ok I thought I'll go for another spin and try a recharge after that. When I was out a rear spoke broke and I wobbled home. Needless to say I couldn't get the battery to charge beyond 50% after that. I put the bike aside for another winter in my shed. In the spring of this year I removed the ebike components and reverted the bike to pedal only. So today I decided to see if I could resurrect the kit. I found a bike shop online which purported to be able to true or rebuild ebike wheels. When I got to the shop he only offered to sell me spokes for me to fit myself. So I bought 5 in case any more of the originals spokes broke. When I got home I discovered that the spokes were in fact 12 gauge (2.6mm) instead of 13 gauge (2.3mm). They seem to be the right length (250mm). So I thought maybe I could use one anyway. But I found that the broken spoke was in fact a spoke with the head outside the flange (elbow inside). No matter how I try I can't see away of lacing the new spoke into the wheel. I can't get the spoke into the flange and across to the hole in the rim. I'm sure I could be missing something but I can't see a way to do it with removing other spokes (which I'm slow to do for fear of making things worse). Any ideas? Unfortunately the battery issue might be my own fault as I left it in a damp shed over the winter. I put it on charge today and its still only showing 50% with 55 volts. Anything come to mind in relation to this? Thanks in advance for any help. John

Interesting. It would make it that bit easier to remove the wheel. Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Excellent Neal:) Looks like it will take any width of axle you'd need. The coach bolts and bracket are very effective. Nice job. J

Fair point. I had no complaints about doing it on the bike. He did a good job. It was just the refusal to do any future work on the bike that irked me. I suppose fitting a strong motor with a 48v battery to a bike is more than a minor modification. I guess he didn't want to be responsible for anything going wrong. I was just taken by surprise.