evendine

No response from Bike Discount, to date

Certainly looks very heavily built for a narrow chain, although the box says 'E-Bike 7E8 narrow', as advertised. Guess they must have put the wrong chain in the box as some point during production. Will drop them a line and see what they say...

Hmm - Wippermann chain arrived and although marked as a 'narrow' type on the box, appears to be 2mm+ wider than the original. Not sure if I'm missing something here, but fitted it and now can't seem to adjust it in a way that prevents gears slipping / chain rubbing against gears / mech...

Thanks folks - the Wippermann looked good quality for reasonable price, so went with that...

Hi, have been having some difficulty finding a supplier for 124 link chains to fit the Cyclamatic Mk1 MTB. Understand it should be a 7 speed type, but 124 (or greater) link items seem very hard to find and not sure which type to use (i.e. link length) although guessing it's likely a common sort since it's a mass-market product... Any advice appreciated!

Yep - was thinking about how the water got in there but guess unless the motor were airtight, you're going to get condensation in cold weather. Gave everything a thin coat of lithium grease, which should help prevent surface rust in future hopefully...

Whacked the wheel with the side of a big wrench and it freed up third time! Genius! Made my day! Noticed that rotating the wheel backwards caused it to stick again, but a few more whacks and it freed. Had to repeat about 5 times, but seems rotating the wheel backwards then whacking exercises the clutch, as it now appears to work fine even after rotating backwards. Thanks again Dave!

Yep - you've described the symptoms exactly - drag in both directions and the free-wheel seems to be working (so can't be that), as can still hear the 'tick tick' in forward motion. Funny - was reading one of your earlier posts about whacking the wheel with a hammer earlier on - the direct approach! Will give it a go... Do you think it might be possible to drill lubrication holes into the clutch cover and free it that way? Thought about trying to remove the gear assembly, but not sure how to go about it tbh. Thanks for the link, good to know it's possible to replace the gears / clutch for so little. Really impressed by the BMS kit which arrived earlier in the week...

Regreased gears with lithium, cleaned rust from surfaces as far as possible, tapped the clutch cover repeatedly with a hammer to try to free it, then reassembled and refitted the motor. One useful trick is to locate the axle in the dropout on the non cable side first and tighten the nut - makes getting the other side into the dropout much easier, more so if you flex the chainstay a bit. Not sure why, but it now runs with or without sensors, so a good result. Checked the halls with the Lyen tester to make sure it really is running in sensored mode and all seems well. Suggests perhaps rotor and stator were seized as well as the clutch, so no relative motion between them. One niggling issue is that feels like there's drag when free-wheeling. Could it be that the clutch has now stuck on? Not sure what to do other than run the bike and see if it frees up over time...

Gears look fine. Not sure how to test the clutch. Rotating the rotor turns the planetary gears as expected, so not obvious what to check next... Thinking about regreasing - the dark grey gunk is moly grease, which is lithium based apparently, so ok to mix with white lithium i guess?

http://i67.tinypic.com/24eyp85.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/2ptb041.jpg

Managed to get the motor apart - not hard to do, just removed the set of screws on the cassette side, the large spindle nut on the other side and tapped it through. A fair amount of water + rust in there - will post pics shortly...

Would be the first time I've had a problem with Cyclamatic motor hardware, despite much abuse! Some answers to your questions: How many of the three halls switch on/off when you rotate the wheel backwards? None - Lyen tester shows yellow and blue phase lights both on and green off. When measured with a meter, yellow and blue are 4.6v, green 0V. No change when wheel rotated in either direction. To run the motor sensorless you must disconnect the hall sensor connector otherwise the controller will attempt to use the sensors. Can you conform that you tried it with the connector open? Yes Can you confirm that you can hear the characteristic whine of the motor and not some other noise, like hum from a stationary motor? Yes - the sound changes with throttle setting and seems fairly normal if a bit rattley... In sensorless mode, with a little throttle and moving the wheel forward manually, for perhaps 40% of each rotation there's a little forward motion of the wheel under power, but it's very weak.

Thanks Dave - found the KU65 through one of your earlier posts - really impressive Cyclamatic compatible controller for not much money. Ordered 4 from BMS along with some thumb throttles and power meters and they delivered them within a week. The weird thing is that in sensorless mode, the motor sounds as through it's running normally, but the wheel doesn't turn. If you put your hand on the motor casing it feels as though the rotor is spinning internally. Checking the hall sensors (when plugged in) as you suggest, they don't change, but one is switched and the other two not, with normal looking voltages. If the motor isn't engaging with the drive, would this explain the lack of hall activity, do you think, or should the halls change if the rotor is turning?

Have just realised this is a different bike to the one mentioned at the beginning of the thread (have 3 in the house the the mo!), so not sure hardware is ok. Motor phase coils measure around 0R3. Two motor halls are high (4.6v) and one low (0v)...

Interesting - so you can 'hard reset' the controller as you might do with a laptop which is hanging on boot - makes sense Getting maybe initial 10mm (slow) forward movement when power applied via new BMS supplied thumb throttle and standard phase connections only. Initially thought must be the phase wires / motor halls misaligned, but little difference when phase power wires tried in all possible configurations (some move backwards, some a bit forwards) . The odd thing is, in standard config, if you put your hand on the motor, feels like it's running and it sounds right. Have checked the motor halls with a multimeter and they look ok volts wise, but not sequencing even if wheel rotated manually. That's why i was wondering if the clutch (if there is one?) or maybe gears are the problem... Btw, running with no PAS connected initially - assume that's ok for test with this controller?

Think the microcontroller must have been taken out when the MOSFETs blew... Bought a KU65 and fitted it, but although lights on the power meter come on and the motor sounds as it usually does, no rotation of the wheel. Could this be a stuck clutch, perhaps?

After many years of good service, my standard Cyclamatic controller cut out recently while going downhill, which was a surprise. Symptoms were clicking at the motor when the throttle was opened and no power. Got it home, opened it up and on looking it over spotted a charred spot on a 5v wire leaning against the shunt. Checked the MOSFETs and one set was fried. Decided to check the electrolytics while there and found the one next to the fried MOSFETs tested bad. Replaced all three associated with MOSFETs along with the 5v regulator smoothing cap, which was bulging and the fried pair of MOSFETs. Plugged it in to my Lyen controller tester (Halls + phase wires to tester, throttle and power to the controller) and get no motor output. The 5v indicator on the tester is flashing regularly, as is the controller LED (which from other threads i understand indicates the controller is basically functional). The 5v rail looks a bit low (4.7v) and have checked throttle voltage range (0.87 - 4.0v) to make sure the controller will initialise properly. The tester throttle indicator doesn't light up, interestingly, no matter which throttle position. Thinking about replacing the 5v regulator, but guess the processor may be damaged? The bike works fine with another controller. Any thoughts on what the problem with the original might be much appreciated...

Thanks Yellow is at (switched) battery +volts and the LED's work happily when connected. Not using the white wire - always found the on/off button a pain on hills, when you accidentally touch it and loose inertia. Opened the controller up - all looks familiar - 1/3 soldered the shunt and works well - useful extra zip. Will take it for a spin up a hill and make sure the 3 phase wires don't overheat...

...forgot to mention - there are two wires (yellow and white) which go to the throttle assembly and must be those that drive the LED's. I assume they should be connected across the battery, but am not sure of the polarity. Any advice appreciated...

Next step - shunt mod Really obvious difference when comparing 24v no mod with 36v with 1/2 shunt soldered...

Excellent advice as always d8veh! That was the problem - everything's working fine now A note for anyone buying one of these controllers - it really is a tight fit. After some experimentation, i found the best way to get everything into the controller compartment was to loosen the main power connector, remove both covers, push the wires in first and then gently ease the controller in until flush with the edge of the compartment. I then packed the wires on the other side, making sure there was room for the main power connector, fitted the bottom battery plate bolts and finally screwed both covers into place...

Everything seems to be working fine other than pedal assist. The sensor is wired up as follows: Sensor Red (+5v) = controller Red (+5v) Sensor Black (0v) = controller Black (0v) Sensor Green (signal) = controller Blue (signal) Magnet strip / sensor look to be properly positioned - not sure what could be causing the problem...

I've ordered one for my current Rat - hopefully it'll do the job Gave up on the Chinese OEM's in the end - too difficult to communicate with them...

Think I've found a low cost UK supplier for replacement controllers, although I'm not entirely sure about the brake wiring. The unit's 94x51x29mm, which is about the same as the standard one (if you include the wiring grommets) and looks as though it will fit in the space... Any thoughts on possible issues appreciated ELECTRIC BIKE CONTROLLER 250W 24V 10A- SENSORLESS & HALL SENSOR COMPATIBLE | eBay