Biker44

AI Overview - Check important info. Learn more Yes, that's correct. One horsepower (hp) is equivalent to 746 watts (W). This conversion is widely used in the measurement of power, especially when referring to engines and motors. Explanation: Horsepower (hp): This is a unit of measurement for power, historically used to compare the output of steam engines to the power of horses. Watts (W): This is the standard unit of power in the International System of Units (SI). Conversion: 1 horsepower (hp) is defined as approximately 746 watts (W).

Is there a useful tip in there? Can it be that I could easily have recovered the 2.5 year old Bosch 400 Battery on my 2017 c7+ Gazelle with the dinky toy people here helped me find? Obviously can't do it now.

Did you get an answer to your FOI?

Several useful tips from you there, thankyou. The decent length of two core cable I have (from a mains vacuum cleaner?) could be good for up to 2000 watts, roughly 8 amps at mains voltage. It should handle 2 amps at 45 volts (nominal 36volt battery) with no trouble. I note what you say about checking polarity! The 50 volt power supply comes with its own "multi-meter" style male connectors ending in pretty tiny insulated crocodile clips. Instead of which, I will use ring terminals on the supply that came with a lead with an inline fuse. I think its about 10 amp protection.

Ah - thankyou. I can go ahead wiring it up with the tidy length of two-core cable I have. I wasn't sure what sellers-information I'd seen provided on a flea-bay (?) link.

Whoopee - XLR connector arrived - did I see that two of the three pins can/should be connected together? If that's right, I can use my nice long length of 2-core rather than cutting up a decent 3-core extension lead.

I'm a neophyte. I'm depending on you guys to bring me up to speed and leading me to the sun-lit highlands.

Thanks for the tip - are we to understand that the picture above (from our friendly deliver-to-your-door box-shifter) is pushing the bounds of crediblity? That would be sad, they're usually quite good. However, the safe charging rate of our e-cycle batteries is probably only around 2 amps (that's the limit of what our chargers currently deliver). Someone tried to sell me a three amp charger (at £100!) claiming "it would be faster" - without any kind of explanation, I'm afraid I politely declined. The new power supply is still easily capable of blowing up my batteries (in the concrete lined passage-way where I plan to use it) - I will have to be super careful. But I will (briefly) double check what you've said about maximum current at maximum voltage before sanity returns and report back.

Ha! Thankyou! I've found it! Just £55 from a box-shifter-brings it to my door! Why are no other Bikers beating a path to this mans door? There's even a 120 volt version for only five squid more.

A video almost impossible to follow. Whereas this video - - makes the same thing look ridiculously easy. At least in theory - in practise, the once highly regarded GOPHERT CPS-3205II (Portable Adjustable AC to DC Variable Switching Power Supply AC DC Converter 110V/220V switchable Great for Provide Constant Voltage or Current Supply) has vanished from reputable suppliers (Amazon and so forth) - "Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock." All is not lost - there are many other suppliers of the same thing. However, there's a hitch. This power-supply ("charger") does 0volts to 30 volts and a 36volt lithium battery probably needs up to 50volts. So, suppose I wanted to manually charge such a ("Silver Fish style" in an ali Extruded tube) battery, how would I do it?

My experience (three e-cycles) has been that 3 years is about the limit. This covers both the aluminium Extrusion type (2010/2012 vintage) and a Gazelle Bosch PowerBank (failed in 2.5 years, though a question mark over whether it was truly 2017 vintage). When they go, its quite quickly (the Bosch battery very suddenly, presumably in the BMS) There doesn't seem there is much you can do to improve this.

How did you get on? I'm looking for a battery for a Gazelle c7+ which seems to have been discontinued very early.

The Chinese are alleged to know all about this problem and have solved it - many/most cycles are charged outside. It would be a tragedy if robust methods to protect people are not implemented. See

Do I get this right - these Bosch batteries only last 2 or 2.5 years and failure is notified by the "4 green lights" at end of charge? Furthermore, nobody has succeeded in re-celling them.

Checking on the web, the current models of Raleigh Motus all seem to have their batteries on either the down-tube or the seat tube. Is yours older? I'm sure I've seen a Raleich electric cycle exactly the same as our Gazelle Orange c7+, same Bosch motor, same display and similar battery position (not entirely sure if it was identical mounting).

Not exactly the same thing - but may be linked. That's the same as mine, a Gazelle Orange C7+ (but with the slightly older Bosch motor). Its failed, suddenly and almost completely. My Bosch battery doesn't seem to fit very reliably - however, I'm more suspicious of the display (when I warmed the latter in my pocket it started working briefly) or the connections alongside the motor. Connecting and unconnecting all 4 connectors there made no difference, but the brief period of the system working again coincided with my pushing the wires back out of sight. Warming the display has not worked again - maybe suggesting something really serious and expensive wrong in the motor area.

Update - I've had the cover off again and pulled apart each connector to see if it makes any difference. It makes no difference - almost the only clue I have is that the fitted head and tail lights don't work now, which could be significant. Yes, the battery is charged. I've traced the wiring, its obviously more complex than it is on many people's mountain bikes since this cycle has lights front and rear. (Note - the Battery connector is locked into place by a fragile plastic clip, easily snapped - while the simpler wiring without lights, two connections instead of four can be seen on this video )

We bought this two year old electric with 1600 miles on it and its been fine - until it suddenly stopped. No power atall. I diagnosed a failure of the speed sensor to the rear wheel. Not least because the display came on normally but did not register any speed atall - and of course, this is a common problem. The spoke magnet is not very close to the sensor - but I've put a powerful slim magnet on top of it, so there should be getting a good strong signal. (Note - I discovered how to switch the display to miles after this picture was taken!)

Apologies for leaving out the important information - I'm near Huntingdon. Both cycles (the intact one and the squashed one) would fit easily in most cars.

One of these is run-over and squashed but the other is lightly used and clean. Two batteries (but will need to be re-celled). Cost £599 each, for sale at £100 the pair.

Nothing sensational here, I'm afraid ... we have push-bikes and do all our local shopping on them. Plus some leisure and some work. We wanted a folding cycle for some uses eg fetching the car after a night in the pub and a taxi home. My wife suggested a Brompton. I got us an electric folding - and I use it quite a bit, both for its intended purpose and for general run-around. My wife has a back problem and will use it sometimes - or we'll go out together, she will cycle normally and I use the electric so she has a choice if needed.

If I was to be awkward and still like to charge to 80%, how would I go about it? I now have two batteries and deliberately keep the second one at less than full charge (40% charge is said to be be best for long term storage). However, I can only do that by putting it away after having done a few miles. If I were to build a charger or modify a charger that only provided 4.05volts per cell, how would that interact with the BMS inside the battery? Would I risk getting some cells charged more than others? I have a second question for everyone - when is the price of Lithium due to plummet? Is it going to take 10 years and more because the market will create almost unlimited demand? The price of my battery has actually gone up, was GBP 199 and is now #299!

How many batteries can you pack together before you get over-heating problems?

I have something very similar to yourself, a no-name Chinese folder ... may I ask how much use you got out of the original battery? Were you using it every day, how many miles? How long was it before you realised the battery was getting tired - did you get, say, 2 good years and the third year not so good, practically useless by the end? I took the precaution of having my first folder squashed flat under a car - I claimed full value off the insurance but retrieved the battery (which is now 2 years old). I went straight out and purchased another of the same model so have a newer battery as well. I'm trying to entirely wear out and use up the first battery on shorter journeys, saving the newer battery for more occasional longer trips.

Same one I've got (though I'm sure it was more when I had it on my Xmas list?) Makes a huge difference - and I often leave different cycles there purely in order I can admire them. The professionals commonly cheat and simply hook the saddle of the bike over the arm - I often copy them when I only need a quick shufti. It really needs a tool-tray, but the correct one is a bit steep and I'm still using a nearby shelf. Hmmm ... is it Xmas present time? Anyone reading this and not yet convinced should consider an Amazon bike hoist. You can always use the hoist for storage later on when you've taken the plunge and got the real thing.