gillettadam

Alright, thanks. I will try and obtain some from 'the bay' before I start doing anything.

Here are some images, once the short circuit stops, do I stop removing mosfets?[ATTACH]3570.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3571.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3572.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3573.vB[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the replys, I've been quoted in the region of 50 pounds!!!! Though the Thompson service team are excellent. I've stripped out the controller and found the 6 mosfets. Not being an electrical whizz, but being fairly competent with a soldering iron and such, would it be a good idea to try and repair the old controller with new mofsets, or had I better start saving up? The mosfets read on them: IRF 3205 IXR 410k Where X is had to discern, may be an ohm symbol 2Y 7J

0 Ohms between the 2 leads

forgot to say this is when nothing is connected to the controller that it settles at 0 ohms edit: it is also 0 ohms when everything is attached at measuring at the battery input plug

the restistance starts high and shoots down to 0, on the first test, on the 2nd and third it was just 0. these are some pictures. I also tested all the wiring for shorts, and nothing has conductivity with anything else, except one of the hall sensor wires shows a certain level of conductivity with one of the others.[ATTACH]3554.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3555.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3556.vB[/ATTACH] this is my controller.

I put the new sensors in, and wired up a new cable, and went to try it out when there was an almighty fizzle and then everything died. I discovered that a fuse in the battery had blown. so I replaced the fuse and it happened again. I assume this means a blown controller? If much more like this happens I think I'll cry!

thanks, I was hoping that would be the case. I will have to make something up for it in this abysmal weather!

My dad has been having a bit of a clear out in my grandad's old shed, and has found an old lucas horn that's never been used. It looks much like this Lucas 7H Classic Car Horn LU/69152 Jaguar Bentley Aston Martin Jensen. | eBay and it's bloody loud. Anyone have any ideas on fitting it to the ebike, as it's quite large and heavy, and uses 12 volts as opposed to 36. I would hope not to need to use it very often of course but it seems a shame not to pt it on there!

I've read an instructable on replacing hall sensors and the chap used ss41s it is possible that the first s is covered in resinand I can't se it on mine, is it worth getting some ss41 sensors?

well chaps I've got the motor out. There are 3 hall sensors, and one looks to have definately fried. the other 2 I'm not sure about. The numbers are from right to left s41 301 unreadable s41 303 [ATTACH]3444.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3445.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3446.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3447.vB[/ATTACH] the middle sensor being the unreadable one. Is it possible to just buy generic hall sensors from ebay to replace these, as these are quite cheap whereas I can't find ones with the same number

I've sent you a PM, thanks

I think I'll do it myself then! There is a large amount of wire damaged so if anyone has any 8 core hall 7mm outer diameter about it would be very appreciated

it was tight in the drop outs, after loosening the axle nuts I had to really heave with a 10 mm spanner to twist the axle back to where it should have been. How much would I be looking at for a re wire of the motor?

It's not a geared one, no gears in the motor or on the chain!

The wheel turns fine, and it's all as it should be, or looks it anyway. I'm in Wootton near Oxford. There isn't anything to take pictures of, it all looks fine except for the mangled wire, but I will split the hub open and take a look and take some pictures of the internals

Been using the electric bike for some time, it's been brilliant. However I was going down a relatively steep hill and had a fair bit of speed on when all of a sudden the rear axle locked up and span which of course completely ******ed the motor cable. Does anyone know why it would jam like this, once I'd stopped it was completely free so it wasn't a mechanical fault. Also is it worth repairing and if so does anyone have any 8 core hall cable about?

Reviewer: Adam Gillett (gillettadam) Purchased From: Friend Purchase Price: £0 Time Owned: 1 Month Local Terrain: Moderate Hills ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Strengths: The bike pulls well from a standing start, and the assistance is about right. The built in lights and indicators are handy, as is the kickstand, and the smallish cupboard in the downtube. The spares depatment at Thompson are very helpful, and the throttle mode is very good, reaching a speed of about 13 mph on the flat. It is well thought out, and the factory pannier rack looks fairly strong, and is definitely very large (enough for 3 12V 12Ah mobility scooter batteries) I have used this bike with a friend, and it was easily pulling away from him with only half a battery left on a long shallow hill. The motor cable is protected by some metal brackets in the event of a fall ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Weaknesses: The bike is heavy, though in comparison to other electric bikes I'm not sure. The battery on mine only lasts about 6-7 miles before it gets worryingly low , though it was second hand I hasten to add, and a new 12Ah (not factory) battery lasted at full throttle for a good 10 miles with still half a charge remaining. It is very difficult to pedal without any assistance should you become left in the lurch, I manage about 2.5 - 3 miles flat/ slightly downhill before I have to turn the power on. The Bike is covered in plastic which is fairly vulnerable in a fall. In the event of the rear brakes becoming faulty I would be a bit worried as it is a special band brake, and unless thompson stock them I doubt they'd be easily obtainable. The horn (which hopefully no one will need) is very weedy and I would doubt anyone in an enclosed vehicle would be able to hear it ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Summary: My bike is a second hand one, and was given to me because it had been in a fairly nasty accident. The pedal sprocket was very bent, and the front fairing was smashed on one side. The motor cables had also been ripped where the axle was loose and the motor had been used. This puts me in a position to comment on this bike to work on, and it is fairly easy. I am very pleased with it, especially after creating a secondary 12Ah battery for it. The spares I required were easy to obtain, and the pannier rack is perfect for storing three 12 volt 12 ah batteries, and the factory one fits behind the seat very neatly (although this is putting a lot of strain on the rear wheel and I don't advise you make a habit of it, if you do choose to have a secondary battery. It is very good on the hills, and on the flat it cruises very nicely. I am 16 years old and would definately recommend it, no it isn't stylish, no it isn't hugely fast, but it's amazing fun, and it lets you cycle where you otherwise would be reluctant to. I live 3 miles form my main town, with a fair hill to climb on the way home and never used to cycle, today I cycled just for the fun of it. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Overall Rating (out of 10) : 8/10. It is heavy, and has some aesthetic issues, but it has enough power, and range (10 miles full throttle and used half of the battery) with my new 12Ah battery and is practial enough for most purposes. .

Hey PennyFarthing, I don't know a huge amount about things, but I'm into restoring vintage machinery so just applied that to the bike. I managed to get it to go, and despite it being amazing on the hills was shocked at how much battery the lights used. I'm thinking of getting 3 mobility scooter batteries and making a secondary battery for it just in case I have to do a two way trip in quick succession

I've managed to solder the motor wires back together, and am now in the process of rebuilding the bike. I'm going to make some modifiacations to the cable to protect it in the event of an accident, and the front sprocket was badly bent so I'm replacing that. There is a lot of plastic that has to go back on it, but after that it should be redy to go!

Thanks, I'm going to an autojumble on Saturday so will keep an eye out for some PTFE insulated wire. I have traced the wires back to the control box and I think they will be fairly simple to reconnect at that end. I think my soldering iron will have to venture out for the motor end of operations though!

Hi everyone. I have just joined the forum as I have been given an electric bike (A Thompson Euro Tourer). This sounds great, but the motor cables have been in a bit of an accident and need replacing. I have removed the motor and have worked out what I'm going to do, but I wondered where I would get some cable suitable for it. I did think trailer lighting cable but that is only 7 core whereas this is an 8 core hall cable. any help would be appreciated. I was given the Bike because the old gentleman who owned it originally (90 I am told so I can call him old being 16 myself!) crashed it a few times and then the motor cables snapped so he gave it to a friend of my uncle's to fix, and when the gentleman was told what had happened he decided it best to buy a new bike, and give the old one to my uncles friend who then passed it to me to fix. Cheers Adam