HypnoToad

Ok, I've done a little more digging and it looks like the Bosch speed sensor is a hall sensor but with only 2 wires? Maybe there are some other parts in the speed sensor, I'll have to get a multimeter on it and see what is going on. The full manual for SX2 dongle is here, they show +5v on the speed sensor wires: http://support.maintronic.de/en/downloads/e-bike-tuning/category/27-bosch-classic.html?download=112%3Asx2-tuning-dongle-bosch-classic-cablekit-manual

I use tubeless tyres on my MTB, it works well but you need to keep fluid in them. I would never use solid tyres on a bike, unless you'd like it to feel like something from the 17th century!

Thanks for posting up the circuit for the flip-flop circuit, after reading up a little on logic gates it looks like the flip-flop halves the frequency, and I'm guessing the 4093 converts the long high signal back into a pulse? I'll order the parts to build the circuit, I like the fact I'm not cutting into the wiring of the bike means the risk of screwing something up is minimal. I'll have to try winding a few magnets, I've found an old motor that I can use the wire from, I will have to get the drill out EDIT: Quick question, does VCC have to be 5v? I have a connector for the lights that puts out 6v and was thinking about using this to power the dongle. Or if I want to keep it simple, maybe just a single 18650, would ~3.7v be anough? I must admit I have more experience with arduino type stuff so I am learning as I go along here. My Bosch gen1 bike only has 2 pins on the speed sensor, so I guess it uses a reed switch? Taken from the SX2 dongle manual: http://i.imgur.com/87Kihrc.png So I guess I need to use a coil here?

Hi, nice idea using an electromagnet, means you don't need to splice into the bike's wiring. I'm not really sure how you convert a relay into an electro magnet, is there a photo or video showing how it's done? Failing that could I just use a tiny speaker coil or something from e-bay? I don't really know how to wind my own! Also I'm tempted to try building this with a reed switch instead of a hall sensor, as it will use a little less power, I was hoping to use an ATTiny85 powered by a coin-cell as the brain, when it is in sleep mode it uses very little power. I'm not really sure how much current the electromagnet/relay would need. Would 4mA be enough as coin cells only output a small current.?

Thanks for posting up the pic of where the lights connect. Do you know which is connector is for the front, and which is for the rear? Thanks

Depends on your tyre width and weight. I use 35 and 40 psi, front and rear respectively

How to you make diy slime?

Thanks for the replies, I did find that I did not need the battery gauge installed in order for the Ezee controller to function. Unfortunately my Ezee controller melted it's FET's going up a rather steep hill, so I replaced the controller with an ecrazyman controller and things have been fine ever since. I also found the battery gauge did not work for me either, which is why I wanted to bin it, now I just use a voltmeter on my handlebars in order to monitor my battery voltage. EDIT: Are you using a 36v battery?

I taken the plastic covers off the motor drive unit on my 2010 Agattu as I wanted to swap out the sprocket on the motor, I took 3 pieces of plastic off, when in hindsight I probably only needed to remove the plastic covering the sprockets. Anyway, after I removed the 3 covers, I noticed a small piece of rubber on the floor, and was wondering where it came from and where it's supposed to go upon reassembly? THanks

Good stuff, that sounds ideal, I've sent an e-mail regarding payment. Thanks

I'm not sure if this has already been mentioned, but if you wire enough LED's in series then you won't need to use resistors or step down converters, that way you get more efficiency. Step down converters are never 100% efficient. EG, say you have a 36v battery setup; Top voltage will be 42v. Buy a big pack of white LED's, for example let assume a forward voltage of 3v. 42 / 3 = 14 LED's in series. When your pack drops to 36v, you'll get less than 3v per LED but even so it will work. Red LED's have a lower voltage, usually around 2v, so you'll need a load, especially those if you with 48v or high voltage batteries.

I only ask as it's no longer useful to me as I'm running a 44v battery now. Will the controller run ok if I remove it? As far as I can see it also has the wiring for the throttle, lights and brake sensors within, here's a photo of the PCB: http://i.imgur.com/Rlaphl.jpg The Black, Green and Red wires are from the throttle and these go to the White, Blue and Green wires to the controller respectively. The black wire to the controller appears to be for the brake lever switches, and the yellow wire is a voltage feed straight from the battery which also goes to the lights. So, if I was to solder together the throttle cables, and also make the lights always on, then would I be able to get rid of the battery gauge and reclaim some space on my handlebars? Or will doing this confuse the controller and stop the motor from working?

It's worth bearing in mind that a 12s lipo pack will be slightly over 50v when fully charged. I'm using a similar 12s (li-ion) setup and I have swapped my 50v caps for 63v equivalents just to be on the safe side.

Thanks for the reply, I must admit the marathons are pretty hard, I guess they're designed for durability over comfort. I managed to find a shop that had the 2.35" tyres on offer at less than £20 for the liteskin version, so I went for a pair. I'm just hoping I can squeeze them in, and if not the shop has free returns and I can go for some thinner ones if I need to.

Hi cyclezee, that's good to know ezee parts are available, even though I managed to fix my controller in the end. I saw on your site that you sell torque arm kits, do you know the thickness of the metal on the part that goes around the motor axle? Thanks.