jkam

Hi, I was aware of your kind advice and explained why I have not yet obliged in that I have not yet found time to get to the bike and again dismantle. It is now usable as is - for now. But hey, if someone kindly offers a photo, would you prefer that I reject that offer?

Hi, Thankyou for your time, effort and empathy. Unfortunately these do not show the small pcc (circuit board) that the charging LED array are mounted - specifically the red and black wire connections. Kind Regards

Hi, Inside the battery pack, the red and black wires from the cells/RCA/Phono socket to the LED charging indicator PCB are detached & I need to know to which of the two places they solder - regarding correct polarity - please? Confusingly, one of the pcb holes connects with the LED cathode - and the other with a diode cathode -ve. Thanks

error - wrong forum plz delete.....sorry

Hello again, Why no notification of replies via email on this forum? Did I miss an option? I gave up waiting for a reply but nevertheless, tx for new advice. Apologies if I confused you D8. I really appreciate your consideration in helping. Connecting the battery after the short blew a 20A fuse that worked OK before that. None of the other MFs read as a short. When a fuse blows then it's normally advisable to look for a fault rather than try again. I don't have an ammeter over 20A around. You are suggesting that the battery is connected to a short within the MF ......that opens when a V is applied to another terminal? Why doesn't the battery heat up? Too late & wet now to check anything tonight. chrz

Seems like I have to go it alone nd will again attempt to remove a mosfet though I fear for the PCB.

Hi, "If you've got two open FETs, that would prevent your controller from working, but I can't see how shorting an ignition wire would do that, and I'd expect the resistance to be much lower than 2 amps. " I think you need to revise that but thanks for responding. I know the first device is a regulator (though I erroneously read a short there initially). The adjacent FETs read a dead short where they connect to the battery.

Hi D8 I bow to your superior and empirical knowledge but we seem to have hit an impasse here or I have lost the plot. Any further help would be really appreciated.

Thanks but.....Am I missing something? - please elaborate.The IEC C14 plug shows 2ohms between red & black wires from battery which becomes O/C when controller disconnected. The 2ohms can be traced to two mosfets. 2ohms across the battery will blow the fuse.

YES, this one.......[ATTACH]5574.vB[/ATTACH] unfortunately the same......been there- they don't deal with them anymore.

Correction.Black & red ignition wires arrive at top & side of battery kettle plug. As there is a dead short between these it has to be a shorted controller & it seems to be the first 2 mosfets which I can't remove. Here is a photo of controller [ATTACH]5573.vB[/ATTACH]

Hi again. Unfortunately, I forgot to mention that the Euro plug read as a dead short on the 2 outer slots. OC okay but SC is a worry. I can't locate a schematic. Are there a generic wiring diagrams that would assist?

Hi, Apologies for my absence. I never expected any more than 15MPC (do we use MPC Miles Per Charge as an accepted abbreviation yes?) Seller wanted seller's fees deducted from any refund which incidentally he stated would not happen for 1 month as abroad. Ebay will not disclose if he is a trader & Distant Seller cancellation rights apply. I opened a dispute & after 8 days I get a refund option. Otherwise, my only recourse would be a neg. Thank you all for your valued assistance regarding this.

Hi, Chrs D8, I am cured. I trust it's not just a panacea. I am now one happy (but cold) bunny. I will be out there, when the permafrost melts and the water table lowers, full of hope and armed with my trusty Fluke and your intel. I can't locate a schematic. Are there a generic wiring diagrams that would assist? Many Thanks

they could be the old ones in there, and he put the new ones in another bike. I confronted him with that and he didn't cancel so I expected brand new batteries. I also asked how he could find it viable to pay £80 on batteries and sell at a profit for £185. No answer. I still reckon that it has sub-standard batteries in it. After a few miles, the voltage would sag causing the low voltage control (LVC) to cut the power. You leave it for a while and the batteries recover so that you can do a few more miles. Maybe he's an idiot and doesn't realise that, so he thinks that it's over-heating. Who knows?. Maybe he's put in smaller ones than it needs, which cause the same problem. That is the sort of info I need Thanks Batteries should beDZM-12 Leoch from batterybayuk If it really is over-heating, walk away from it (NO OTHER OPTION REALLY>>>>>>lol) because there's something seriously wrong with it. If it's the batteries, £100 should sort it, so you got a nice scooter for £285. I prevaricated at £185 but it being a Yammy + new batteries clinched it. So alter that and I prefer a a bike with gears and usable pedals and better weight power ratio. Thanks