Clockwise

My current is this. http://www.decathlon.co.uk/mini-abus-u-lock-bike-lock-yellow-id_8203082.html + http://www.wiggle.co.uk/restrap-lock-holster/ = http://restrap.co.uk/shop/image/cache/data/products/lock-holster1-600x600.jpg Depending on where I am going I use a cable to loop the wheels too but that just gets shoved in my bag. I also use a canvas belt pouch thing on the other side that takes a multitool, puncture kit and other little bits. I also use these to declutter my handlebars. The phone part just clips onto/into the headset mounted cleat part which replaces a 5mm spacer, fitted them to all my bikes and I just clip in and out my phone with strava on when I'm swapping between bikes. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00FI357RK/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_C http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-ONE-Pokemon-II-Mobile-Smart-Phone-Case-Includes-Packman-Stem-Cleat-/141019894326?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item20d570d236 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-ONE-Packman-Plus-Stem-Cleat-System-for-1-1-8-Ahead-Threadless-Stem-Headset-/181179483577?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item2a2f2385b9 Strava if you don't know what it is. Nobody follows me but I still get all the info on my rides and it can do most of what other cycle computer things do. http://app.strava.com/athletes/2625496 You could also try something like a hiplok d lock and wear it on the rucksack strap(it has 2 long clips sticking out on the back side). http://www.thedrainage.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/1236516_589254501112778_530158836_n.jpg Hope this helps you to shortcut some of the kit trying/rebuying, I used a few different things before I found what worked for me.

I like the idea that if you get a "puncher" you can quickly and easily swap the wheels to pick if it's front or back and continue the ride.

More pics, I love spokeless wheels, would be awful in just about every way I can think of from changing flats to putting a lock around but it would look so good. http://www.gizmag.com/ingsoc-hybrid-electric-bike-concept/19301/

Slime won't work well with those as it won't be able to run around easily so will all and up at one end of the tube, would be a nightmare. As for the rack/pannier and seatpost, I personally would swap the seatpost clamp for one with pannier holes(if the frame doesn't have them in a suitable location), can't find anywhere cheap to buy the clamps atm but they are usually about £5 http://www.spacycles.co.uk/smsimg/204/2719-8506-main-seatpost_clamp_with_rackmounts-204.jpg Regular seatpost clamps you can get for £2 from chain reaction, you will need to know the size which can be anywhere from 26mm upto about 40mm but if you are lucky it will be stamped on the side of the clamp or you can buy a few mm bigger than your seatpost so a 27.2 seatpost will likely have a 30-31mm size clamp. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/seatclamps?sort=pricelow As for the racks it's more personal preference so long as the rack is wide enough to not obstruct the discs then all is good, some are wider to make sure they will on all bikes but most just go vertical and still won't have issues, I have one of these on one bike and it's very secure once you have it all adjusted properly. The key thing with pannier racks is to get bags that fit well with them or they will forever rattle about and just be annoying to use. http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rear-pannier-rack-4b-athlete-id_8017723.html As for the thief front something like this could slow them down, are some others that do the same from pinhead and someone but they have a shared key if I remember rightly. You can also go for a diy bodge and superglue a ball bearing into the allen key hole, it will however mean you need to soak the superglue in stuff to get it out whenever you need to adjust it, I have done it on a bikes headset before when I felt the handlebars had been worth enough to make them a theft magnet. http://atomic22.com/ I personally just take off all my batterys, lights and bags when I'm locking up and take them with me, it takes me less than a minute as my rear lights I usually clip onto my bag. The "essentials" I would have in a saddle bag I have moved to a belt pouch and pocket in my bag. 20 in 1 airace tool, a lezyne mini puncture kit with levers, assorted glueless patches(lezyne, lifeline, park, weldtite red), leftover space filled with cereal snack bar thing - belt pouch inner tube or two, airace mini pump, 15mm jobsworth pedal spanner/long spanner - convenient shaped pocket in bag I'm also trying out a restrap lock holster with my new lock, bargain of a lock btw as other shops seem to be wanting £50+ for an abus 401(actual model of the lock). http://www.wiggle.co.uk/restrap-lock-holster/ + http://www.decathlon.co.uk/abus-mini-u-lock-yellow-id_8203082.html I have repaired a couple with the wheel on in the past and try too if I can see the glass/pin/thorn stuck in the tyre to show where the hole will be. If so then lay the bike on it's side and half take off the tyre, stick a patch on and then put the half of the tyre back on. If you need a good search for the puncture then taking the wheel off is faster. Hope the long post is helpful.

Not sure how many miles you want to do but EV5 would be my pick if I had the time. Belgium is one of my favourite holiday destinations tho. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EuroVelo Not on that route but a couple of not bad cheapish places I stayed last year. Decent friendly hostel, shared bathrooms but lovely rooms and not far from city center. www.hostel-wohngemeinschaft.de/en/home.html Really big rooms was recently refitted when we stayed, in the diamond district which is busy mon-fri with diamond trade and ghost town on weekends. Booking.com I think we booked it with for big discounts. www.differenthotels.com/nl/Hotels/Antwerp-City-Center-Hotel Depends what you want to see/do. Give us a rough idea and I'm sure you will get a ton of unusual trip advisor pages to link too. Drielandenpunt at the netherlands+belgium+german border isn't much to see but has an observation tower as it's the highest point in the netherlands so maybe worth a stop if you are driving that way. Seemed like a sort of missed place that local school kids would visit on day trips but we went on a weekend.

It goes into heat/friction at the pads. With the disc it is then spread across the disc and then hub and evenly across the wheel(which then has friction with the road), with rim brakes it's pad and rim an then unevenly onto the spokes nearest the clamped rim area and then onto the wheel and road. Most wheels are spoked by machine these days so the quality is always about the same so long as they feed in the right parts. Just check now and then for loose or tight spokes and that the wheel spins true. Also never trust a carbon...

I use this if I'm worried before I set off, it goes off OS maps so accurate enough for most. http://www.bikehike.co.uk/mapview.php If you mark on the left map it plans a route for you, if you mark on the right map it goes as the crow flys.

You could do almost twice that with your hand on another guys butt lol youtube.com/watch?v=6zOY9ozfwCE I'm mostly riding in london so very few chances to go all out for speed, I know some do but I personally don't think my daily commute is worth the risk of riding that hard and even if the road looks clear of traffic I'm so used to potholes and bad surfaces that I just expect the need to weave. That said I know the gaps when I can go fast so often clock in 35-40mph sections on strava if I'm on my single speed racer. Trying to do that less as I'm totally destroying brake pads atm, good for trying different brands I guess lol

I know lots of people who have done that, one guy I remember talking too would ride a ton of miles on a similar £70-100 bike that came with a free service and some other junk, basically said he would ride 3 months then have it serviced and swap the brake pads, ride another 3 months then replace it as another service was £50 and with a couple of parts cost as much as another new bike. Seems extremely wasteful to me but it's part of how disposable everything is.

Google "buy cheap buy twice" and the first result is a bike.

If the past projects went so well and they are now rolling in money as they say then why do they need to use kickstart. It's really annoying me how people are using kickstart to fund existing companys and just take the risk out of new products and expansion by palming the cost off on whoever gives money in kickstart.

Look up "Sugru" and see if it could maybe do it. Handy stuff if you have enough space for it to work.

Well neither of them kits you linked too include a battery. The first one also doesn't include the lcd display or anything. The 2nd one is one of these with £30 fleabay tax. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/C961-display-LCD-C961-LCD-48v-750W-8fun-Bafang-Bafun-Motor-2013-New-Model-BBS-01/1422153964.html

Isn't is just one of these? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-bb-tool-8-prong/rp-prod74219

He lives near a massive hill.

Have you got a video clip from the current one? Also how long do batteries last in it?

Another vote for build from scratch for that money. I wouldn't even go with a new bike and strap a kit to it would build it from parts as you likely need to swap wheels, remove bb to add sensors and generally mess with it more than assembly of a new bike when it's delivered to add the kit.

If they are beach cruisers like my electra(not electric just a beach cruiser) then the handlebars could be too wide for normal doors. The pic with the girl doesn't do them justice but often it's a case of them being 2ft across. Very easy and nice to ride but practical wouldn't be that.

4 miles is about 20-30mins cycle for most people, 12mph average speed(15mph ebike, stopping for and things) is 1mile each 5min. I think it's a reasonable starting point, after a month or so once you are doing the 4 miles without any issues you can always go to the next tram stop and then add a stop each time you can until the whole journey is by bike, if the motivation is fitness along with the money then that could give you a nice goal to help spur you on.

Lots of good news even if you didn't notice. The other day you had been worried about making it the whole way but if you took a detour then you did the distance you needed and then some. As someone mentioned already your bike was locked badly/wrongly but still there so hopefully a nice safe area to lock up. Hope you stick at it. I think part of the worry might have been "I'm late, I'm late" running around in the back of your mind, once you get the route ironed out and a good idea of how long it takes you things will calm down.

Watched the "data on the copenhagen wheel" video too... slightly worrying how much data it pulls about you/where you are/everything. I don't often buy into them conspiracy type ideas but mentioning who you cross paths with and stuff in a friendly sense is often misused by oppertunist companies to place adverts ect, if the data gave a clear idea that all the healthy people cycle down one route and all the fattys down another then you would get gym/health adverts on one route and burger/cake adverts on the other(just an example). Also if it is so ram packed with sensors and needs your phone connected to turn it on does a dead battery mean a locked/dead bike? Cycle for 4hrs need a 2nd phone/battery or you get stranded? On the other side of things for those not interested in the motor the wheel could make for a very cheap power meter, at the moment the cheapest is a replacement crank arm for about £600 that needs a £200 control thing, a wheel you can use with your phone and can do other stuff too seems a bargain if it gives reasonable data.

I dunno, I can think of a handful of rather straight and wide london roads that could take a weird overhead bus service. Routes like tooting/balham to waterloo with them going in one direction(mornings towards london, afternoons out of london) it could really help. At the same time tho I can see how long it would take to get anything approved and done, bendy buses for example took 7(?) years to get approved and then another 3 after the decision to scrap them for them to get off the roads.

I just started a rebuild project. Got 2 old 3 speeds, one with broken frame and one with rust and abuse(but an ok frame), plan is to respray the good frame and clean up parts from either/or to go on it. Really excited about the whole project. Broken frame bike. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/pimptasticmofo/IMG_20140319_2053281_zpsd89c0553.jpg Other bike. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t171/pimptasticmofo/IMG_20140319_2056491_zps7756a40b.jpg

How far south east? I'm not a bike mechanic in the sense that people pay me but I am in the sense that loads of friends ask me to repair stuff and keep coming back(I should have learned to do a bad job when it's free lol).

I often see people stopped either for a flat tyre or some problem with gears and so call from my bike "need a patch?" or "need tools?" and you get some very very blank faces and weird replys. The few times people have accepted the offer of help have also been weird, one person I taught how to use a glueless patch felt extremely cheated out of countless £5-10 repairs from a bike shop he used often, another who I guess was the same didn't belive me packs of 12 patches are £2 online when I passed them a couple for if it happens again "omg don't do that, they must cost you loads".