birdtrek

birdtrek submitted a new listing: [plain]Original Collectable Mercedes Electric Bike[/plain] - [plain]Original Collectable Mercedes Electric Bike[/plain] Learn more about this listing...

d8veh you are a genius. It powers up :-) Working out how to get two wheels off the floor and turn the pedal and throttle the same time proved the most challenging. If I had road tested first after fitting new batteries ....... ...... but at least now I understand how the electrics work on this model. Many thanks for your help. Will take it to local country park tomorrow to see how it performs.

No I hadn't read the manual - but I have now. 'quote' The ignition has two settings. The first ‘click’ gives Pure Power when pedalling to start it then you can stop pedalling. This is be controlled by the throttle. If you stop and do not pedal for 5 seconds the motor will cut out. The second ‘click’ gives power when pedalling is constant. Again this is be controlled by the throttle. As soon as pedalling ceases the motor will cut out. It is possible to switch between ‘modes’ whilst the bike is moving. 'unquote' So my constant 5v at the pedal sensor joint means that it is faulty and so the throttle won't kick in to get the motor going. If there was some way I could fool the controller to think the pedals are turning, I could prove the rest was working. Thanks .... Chris

Update: Measuring the voltage more carefully this time at the back of the throttle connector ...... it seems to be minus 4v at off and minus (-) 1v when twisted. I missed the - sign last time, sorry. At the back of the pedal assist connector, this is 5v whatever. So can I presume that both the pedal assist and throttle are faulty? Thanks ..... Chris

Update. This controller has two inputs, throttle and pedal sensor. I have 5v between red and black on both feeds. Measuring at the joint feeding the throttle I seem to have about 4v when throttle not used dropping to 1v when twisted. I did try using the pedal assist joint with the throttle but that made no difference. If I connected the red 5v to the signal wire would that mimic 'full throttle' and if the motor kicked in would that prove that it was the throttle faulty or would I just damage the controller? Many thanks Chris

Could not find any bad connections. It would be disappointing if the controller was faulty. I bought the bike as 'dead' and the charger had developed a fault and the batteries had just been left too long. Is there anyway I can check the controller and throttle sensor independently? Would it make sense to buy a controller with throttle?

Update. Made up two cables to connect to block connector and offer to battery off bike. The motor came to life immediately and yes at full speed. For anybody else trying this, I put the bike stand on blocks and weighted the rear end so the motorised front wheel could spin. I then used bungees attached to handlebars to keep the front wheel straight. I presume the next best thing would be to check every wire the controller uses?

Hi Alan, Yes, has block connector with two wires going to motor. As the voltage is 38v even without throttle or peddle power, am I correct in assuming that the controller sends the voltage at a very low amps and increases with throttle twist? If I put 36v direct to these two wires going to motor would that be a way of fault finding? Thanks. Chris

Trying to repair a dead Powabyke. 36V front wheel motor with SLA batteries. Replaced the batteries. Fitted pack and all the lights show up. It doesn't power the motor. I've disconnected the joint between the motor and controller and my voltmeter shows 38v which doesn't change whether you pedal or throttle. Any way of determining if the fault is the motor or controller? Any help much appreciated. Thanks. Chris

Just an update which may be of use to other A2B users. At between 5 - 6 miles the green light stayed off. At between 15 - 16 miles the amber light stayed off. It was still powerful. This was doing some pedalling as well. All things considered - It's a very nice ebike

Thank you for the reassurance It shows nearly 41v at the battery terminals. This one has no internal battery only the rear mounted which suits me as I can take it off and lighten the load on the bike rack. Chris

Hi, Can someone tell me what the lights red/amber/green on the handlebars are supposed to indicate ? They are all alight when I start but the green goes off when I go up hill but comes back on when back downhill or at rest. Am I asking too much of the motor or is the battery coming to it's end, or maybe this is just normal for this bike. Thanks, Chris

I have one of these. I will have a look in morning if there is any alternative from the rear. For now: Does not the straightened key still turn the assembly? Chris

Thank you for the explanation. When I tried the new thermistor, the pack was opened and I left the thermistor sticking up in the air. It is an unheated shed, so really it's temperature would not have changed during charging, but the charger still went green quite quickly. (30 mins). Incidentally, I have two of these chargers from a matching pair of folding eBikes. After rebuilding the case and putting thermistor in correct place, and testing I tried other charger but the same short charge occurred. Voltage readings: 27.3v apparently flat. 29.5v charger says charged. Charger unplugged from battery 39.7v

Between the showers we did manage a 'test' run on the bike. We would conclude that a little more charge was put in but nothing like it should. My electronic knowledge is minimal. Can you send me a link to a 'normal 10k resistor' on eBay? Are you able to explain how the 'beta' values work? I would also add that whenever I have tried to charge the battery pack they have never become warm. I will email the charger manufacturer as well to check that my particular charger is exactly the same as the one I found the spec for. Thanks. Chris