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That's a good idea. Thank for the tip.

Probably just needs a washer, or some loctite to stop the screw coming loose. The shop I bought mine from was very helpful at delivery time etc. Nice to see an industry with plenty of good people in it.

You are correct, that's how it works. Unfortunately, the design is as you say. In practice that means you end up with the key separate from all your other keys (because you cannot keep it on your main keyring) when you walk away from the bike, which means that one small loose key is more easily lost/mislaid. I have already lost one.

Well done. Just got back from a 30km ride this morning myself. Still enjoying it, and I find I am now using it in lower power modes more and more. In fact, I turned off the battery assist for quite a few kilometres today. Must mean I am getting fitter. I don't have any rattles, but I get a chirpy-type of sound when I hit bumps occasionally, I think it's coming from the front suspension somewhere. Small issues I have had include the front mudguard rubbing on the tyre. It doesn't have much clearance and the one screw at the top, that also holds the light, lets it move easily. Also, I had trouble with the seat height. I am heavy and it kept sliding down, no matter how tight I clamped it. Asked a bike mechanic, and he just clamped it up tight, then got an allan key wrench with a big handle, and did it up as tight as he could. Hasn't moved since So, nothing major. I am really happy with the quality of the bike.

Hmm ☺

Thanks Tom. Yes, I don't want it too short, then not have the strength to undo a tight nut.

Yes, that is a trick I just picked up from flecc's site. Best way to go I expect.

Thanks for that. Yes, I have no other 18mm spanners to compare, so maybe it is weird. I am sure I'll have an old 11/16 that can be modified as your link suggests.

My bike is new, and I was just checking nuts for tightness. I was using the toolkit that came with the bike, but nothing seems to fit the rear wheel nuts. The 18mm is too big, and the other end of the spanner, 16mm, was way too small. So I got a 17mm from my main kit, and it was still a fraction too small. An non-metric 11/16 ring spanner I happened to have seemed to be very close, but would have to be tapped on. Just wondering exactly what I should be using (other than an adjustable wrench )

Yes Mike, it does. Thanks.

Thanks. When I asked that question, I was just about to order the bike. I was checking that I wouldn't be stranded if the suppliers weren't around in 2 years time, as much as anything I guess. It's the most expensive thing on the bike that I may need to replace, and as long as I have options, I feel safer. Anyway, since then, I am more confident in the suppliers, local and in the UK, and look forward to at least 2 years riding before I need worry.

Maybe it's only meant to be finger tightened?

Maybe I am using the wrong name. At the handlebar end of the cable, there is a threaded end, with a flat on it, that screws into the brake handle. On the threaded bit, is a thinner knurled nut that appears to be used to lock the thread on the end on the cable. I found a picture in google. It's the chrome bits in this picture.

I need to tighten the locknut on my brake cable (Tektro Novela discs). Normal pliers are too wide, so I could use long nose pliers. Is there a better tool, that will mark it up less, some sort of spanner?

That's me. I bought a step through model Freego Eagle. So I am certain I would like the Big Bear step through. I bought step through style because I need it to be easy to get onto, and be comfortable. Right now I need plenty of assist, but even after about a week, I am dialing the assist down to medium, instead of full, and feeling good with the exercise I am getting.