PastyMan

Uses one of these, with a slot cut in the case, piece of acrylic on top. Meter is powered from a button cell, to save space. No external switches - to avoid water ingress - just hold your phone case close to switch the display on. Reed switch inside the case is operated by the magnet on the phone case clasp.

It's asymptomatic. As I've sent the battery away for new cells, I thought I'd check things over. Hence the puzzlement.

Controller disconnected from battery, and motor. Multimeter set to 200kohms. Readings taken between the negative anderson battery connection and each of the three phase wire pins on their connector, then repeated using the positive anderson connection.

Checking them on my eZee conversion controller I got the following values in k ohms. Green Yellow Blue + 120 70 50 _ 90 60 30 Looking at stuff on the web suggests they should lie in a similar range of values. Do these values suggest anything abnormal? Thanks

Sorted, faulty Hall Sensor on the throttle, replaced with a Bafang throttle, just had to swop connections around for the Juliet connector.

Sorted, cut the cable to ensure correct connections. Here they are should anyone need them.

Do the brake lever connectors follow the same pin configuration as throttle connector?

Thanks, I 'll take the cover off a new one and check the wire colours.

Would this be a suitable replacement for thumb throttle on Ezee kit? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/13018637334?iid=255361998656

Perfect, reads 5V. Many thanks.

Lots of videos on this but they all have stripped cable showing wire colours. But I don't want to cut into my connector(s). So is there a safe way with a multimeter to work out + - and sensor? Using either the male or female (throttle end) connection. I don't want to short or damage anything. Thanks

Yep, I'll check brake levers, throttle function, and motion sensor. Though I would not be surprised to find no faults as the problem is intermittent. May have to resort to carrying a multimeter to capture the moment.

Sods law; I take the bike out 3 times and no fault. This will be a slow process of elimination I think.

Thanks, yes the motor will stop after a longer hold on the brake. The motion sensor and disc seem ok. I think I'll try disconnecting the sensor (instructions did say fitting was optional, as you can always use the throttle) and see what happens just using the throttle.

Yes, came with the kit.

Throttle function seems ok. I was thinking maybe something with the crank sensor.

Happens occasionally, but becoming more frequent. Applying a brake has no effect unless I hold it on for about 20 seconds then release. Any ideas on the cause? Is it simple to fix? Thanks. eZee Mk2 700c rear wheel conversion, 8 years old.

I’ve now discovered that I was misinformed by the young sales person in our local cycle shop. Higher the gauge, thinner the spoke, he got it wrong way around. I visited another experienced repair shop and found out it’s 13G, which I can buy locally. Sorted, thanks for the info.

Thanks, I'll get in touch with them.

The rim and hub motor came fitted with 16g, so I guess I can't go mixing sizes.

Thanks for the tip folks, it worked but no suitable results.

Needed for my eZee conversion rear wheel, 223mm length. Can't find a supplier. A forum search was no good as 16g was rejected as too short a word.

My ezee rear conversion came with the above rim. It now has a flat spot so I'm looking to replace it but can't find any. Does anyone know of a suitable substitute? Thanks

Dunno if this may be of use but I found that a round Surform was really handy opening the inner diameter of the magnet disc so it would fit the crank.

Great stuff, rear wheel eZee conversion on Ridgeback Supernova. Cycling is now fun again!