Bernie2

Many thanks Eddie. I think I am ok for the time being but I can think of various items I may need in the future, especially as Sakura E-bikes no longer exist and will bookmark the magazine for when I might need it.

Hello Dave. Yes, it would come in handy as a spare for my front brake and I would be very happy to compensate you for the postage, packing and your time. Rather than post my address on the forum, I could phone you to exchange addresses but here again, would you want to display your phone number on this forum? I really don't know the implications of doing either but perhaps you can let me have your views as to how we could do this. If it gets a bit too complicated, I am happy to call it a day. PS. It took me about 40 years to convert to metric but I still talk in inches!!

Many thanks to all of you who responded to my post. I thought you might be interested to know that I have found a source supplying tandem brake cables, albeit 1.8mm thick, which is near enough as far as I am concerned and so I leave you a happy bunny. Thanks. Bernie

Thank you Croxden but unfortunately the firm that made Sukura Bikes are no longer in existence and I have not been able to obtain any information about the bike, nor any parts info. However, I will contact Cable - Tec to see if they have one that might meet my spec.

If I cannot find one from normal sources, I'll certainly try that Gridtr. Many thanks

Many thanks Jhruk. The website did not state the cable's length but I will phone the firm tomorrow to see what it is. If this one is not the right length, they may well stock the 2100mm, so I am getting closer!!

That was very nice of you DC and your offer was much appreciated but I need one about 82" (2100mm)

Many thanks EMO Rider - If I don't come up with anything definite, I will look out for Tandem Cables.

Hi Everyone. I am about to replace the rear inner brake cable on my Sakura bike. The existing cable is approx 2100mm long and 2mm in diameter but I have searched the internet and my local bike retailers and I just cannot get a cable 2mm thick. They all vary between 1.2mm and 1.5mm. I assume the extra thick cable supplied by Sakura was due to the weight of the bike which is over 40 kilos with tools and locks etc plus me @ 80 kilos and I am wondering if anyone knows where I can get the thicker cable, preferably in stainless?

Many thanks James. I thought you might be interested to know that I decided to read a few previews on the SKS before I bought it and it would seem the "Air pressure reduction button" is a waste of time, as it does not show a reading when you are trying to reduce the pressure via the button. You have to remove the gauge and then re-apply it to find out if it has reduced the pressure to the set psi, so I would be back to square one. I have an excellent footpump which I keep at home, so all I need is a reliable gauge for my puncture bag. I have decided not to take a chance and buy one online but will visit my local cycle stores and try their gauges out until I find one that leaks air pressure the least. Roll on Summer!!

Many thanks for all your replies. Just as a matter of interest to you, I have decided to go for KirstinS's suggestion of the Evans Cycle SKS Air Checker which seems to meet my requirements. This is mainly because (a) It has a swivel head which makes it easier getting it between the spokes and most importantly, (b) I can set the desired pressure on the gauge, overpump the tyre ,then apply the gauge and it will reduce to pressure to the desired level , similar to the garage air pumps. However, if anyone has had an adverse experience of SKS Air Checker, I would like to hear from you before I actually buy it online ! Once again, many thanks all of you. - I did not expect so many replies in the time it took to eat my lunch!!

Hi everyone. My tyres take a pressure of between 45-65psi and having got rid of my old car and now cycle everywhere, I use the same pressure gauge which I used very effectively on my car tyres. However, on my bike tyres, it is a completely different animal as it allows too much air to escape every time I check the pressures. No matter, how careful I am in applying the gauge, which is the simple pencil shaped chromed metal type, it results in my losing more air than I have pumped in and I find this very annoying. Although it is very accurate, it is only calibrated up to 50 psi and I just cannot find one that is designed for cycle tyres. My query is :- (a) Do they make a pencil type gauge similar to my car one but especially for bike tyres with a higher psi limit and a narrower aperure/nozzle that hopefully restricts the amount of air loss. If so, where can I get one please. And (b) If not, can anyone recommend a good digital one both accurate (within reason) and practical to use but not too expensive, as I only need one for pressures up to 65psi max. Any advice would be most welcome

Hi Flecc. After my last reply to you, I tried to think of an alternative to the beach ball/cushion idea and then a bolt of lightening hit me - why not use pipe insulation which is extremely light but strong enough to take the weight of my bike. I found out that B&Q do a 1 metre length with a 22mm inner hole with 25mm all round insulation, although all I need is 2 x 6" sections to cover the grips. Although the 22mm is a bit small to slide over the grips, if you open up the split section, it clips over them very tightly. All I have to do is swivel the bell and gear changer under the h/bar which means the 25mm insulation is more than enough to protect the plastic electrics cover including both grips - the cost just £2.60. If I need to raise the h/bars any higher off the ground, all I need do is to cut another 6" section, divide them in two to use as packers. The whole kit weighs just a few grams and will easily go in my panniers. I just thought I would pass this on to the Forum members who like you, took the trouble to respond to my original query. Thanks, all of you for your help. Bernie

Hello John. I am sorry to be a party pooper this afternoon but the mechanism that holds the handlebars to the front upright is encased by the plastic electrics cover and I would not want to dismantle it to get to the nuts. However, as I replied to Fleccs post, his idea of an inflatable cushion or a couple of beach type balls partially inflated might be better than nothing, so I intend to follow that idea, unless something else turns up.

Hello Mike. I have a bell on mine also but but I would hate to rely on it to rest my bike on when messing around with a puncture. So far the best idea has come from Flecc with his balls (no comment please) or some form of inflatable cushion which I am going to look into.

No Wicky, both end grips are of fairly solid material and have closed ends, especially the throttle and I really dont want to mess around with them but thanks for your input.

A good idea Flecc, especially as they would not take up much room in my panniers. If I cannot think of anything better, I might get a couple to try out before I get a puncture. Thank you.

Trouble is Wicky, my bike is throttle controlled and I would not be able to fit the ends as you have shown

Once again many thanks for taking the trouble to explain things. I vaguely remember repairing a puncture when I was a young lad but even so, I don't relish the idea of turning the bike upside down in the street. I have numerous items sticking out above the handlebar line as well as a fragile bit of plastic, housing the battery info and lighting indicators etc which I would not wish to damage. Unfortunately, there is no room for the short extension pieces which I would like to fit, so I just hope that the repair canisters work. However, I never say die and after you kindly explained what to do if I had a puncture, I am sure I could get round the handlebar problem somehow. Maybe a young lady would throw down her coat as a cushion, you never know!

Once again, thanks for your reply Flecc. Reading between the lines of all the comments I've read about these things, it seems that some bless them and others don't, so really I have no choice but to buy a couple and see what happens. I hope I am going to be one of those belonging to the former group !! Mind you, I understand it all depends on what kind of puncture you get and what part of the tyre is affected, so really it's all in the lap of the Gods. However, if ever I get caught out having to use one, I shall post this forum with the result, assuming I manage to get home that is. From what you say, I might as well get a couple of Mean Machine ones as well as another make to keep handy. You never know, they might even work!

Thank you Robf. Re the Aldi canisters it is, of course possible they worked but were just dumped on the roadside but I would not be too surprised if they didn't because I have found many Aldi non food items to be a bit cheap and cheerful. Also, like you, it really gets up my nose the amount of litter strewn everywhere these days, usually right next to a litter bin. Still, that's another subject which I daren't get in to !! Anyway, thanks for the tip about the Zefal canister - although I hope I shall have to put it to the test.

Many thanks Flecc. What you are saying is more or less what I have gathered from other Forum posts but my problem is that my Sakura bike weighs over 40 kilos with lock/chain etc and it would be extremely hard work having to wheel it home if I had a puncture and it would probably ruin the inner and outer tubes anyway. It is for this reason, I thought I would use one of these "quick fixes" if I had to, on the basis that it was better than nothing. Therefore, I would still like to hear from anyone who has used the "Mean Machine Bike Tyre Fix" and can comment on how they compare with other more expensive makes. Alternatively, has anyone a particular brand that has really worked well. If so, which one please.

Has anyone experienced using the "Mean Machine Bike Tyre Fix" canisters. They are very cheap on Ebay compared to others on the market and it makes me wonder if they are any good. Also, am I right in assuming that once you have used this type of temporary puncture repair, the inner tube will fill with some sort of gunge and will need replacing at some stage.

Many thanks once again. Having read what everyone has to say, including your goodself, I have decided to leave well alone and accept that I may never know if the charger switches off or not. Like you say, I don't think it will do any harm to leave it on for a while after the "Green" light shows and I have decided to use a timed plug socket just to be on the safe side and adjust the "on" hours if necessary. Many thanks all of you for your helpful input. Happy E-biking !