zammo

thank you All, Thank you - I have ordered from the website link posted by stokepa31_mk2. I think adding the sprockets to the 50cycles accessories section is long-overdue! The next Agattu customers will appreciate it. Thanks to all for the responses. Z.

thanks Thanks Flecc, Do you know if the one in the link is the right one? It's only £5 but it would be a waste of time getting the wrong one - or do you have a link to somewhere you've bought them from before? Thank you.

is this the right one? There's a link in another post to an 18T sprocket. I have the 2008 7-speed Agattu. Can anyone confirm this is the correct one needed to change? Shimano Nexus 18T sprocket for Nexus Geared hubs - £4.19 .

Any recommendations where I can get a new rear sprocket for my Agattu which arrived today? An online retailer would be best... The Agattu is no-doubt a great bike but the assistance tail-off is a bit more than I'm used to (Ezee Sprint) and the bike seems less fast on my commute. Am I right in thinking an 18-tooth would be about right? I live in London and my commute is flat with no hills.

Thanks. That's what I assumed. My commute is completely flat with no hills to climb so it's not a question of overloading and I'm tip-toeing around the problem already so cannot use the motor even less. I find myself putting in a lot of effort to stop the cut-out occurring which - given that the bike is quite heavy to ride as 'normally' - is tiresome and defeats the whole purpose. Time to start saving for a new battery. Thanks again for confirming the diagnosis.

can anything be done about the cut-out? That seems like the cause for my cut-out problems. I have an original 2-year old Ezee Sprint (7-speed) and the cut-out has started happening often. Thankfully it doesn't require a full turn of the key to "reset" it after cutting out. I just turn the throttle again (usually turn the throttle more slowly the second time) and the motor picks up again. The bike isn't ever under sever load: flat area, relatively light rider, and I always pedal as well as using the motor. Other that the cut-out bike is fine. I have felt that the cut-out happens less when I 'condition' the battery by running it nearly empty before re-charging rather than charging it every night regardless of how empty it is, but it could be my imagination. Is there anything that can be done about the cut-out? A sneaky resistor somewhere for example? or is a new battery the only option?

thanks for the advice on the Bobike Junior Leonardo, I've had a look at CMG and it looks good. Will try to hunt one down on eBay.

Frankenbike: the back wheel makes it look like the Eco Classic. The front wheel seems from the Eco Tornado. That back wheel did look quite funky up close.

Hello All, A quick question about child seats. Has anyone fitted a child seat to an Ezee Sprint 7? If so, is there anything I should be aware of when choosing the seat? I've noticed the Bobike Junior, which looks tidy and promising as it's not too big and bulky. I'd be carrying my daughter to school and it is a short journey of less than 2 miles. - BOBIKE Junior - AMBA Marketing (UK) Limited. Your source for quality cycling products. I can't get a good enough picture of the Bobike Junior fittings to work out whether it'd fit the Sprint. Does anyone have experience of this seat?

Just spotted this electric bike in belgrave square in London. Looks quite menacing and yet well put together. http://www.angel.cc/img/IMG_0609s http://www.angel.cc/img/IMG_0608s Anybody know what it is (homemade by the looks of it) or who's it is

Question: raising handlebar height A quick question, how do you raise the handlebar height? I have increased (or decreased depending on your point of view) the angle of the handlebar holder (the diagonal piece that links the handlebar post and the handlebars themselves) so it is pointing upwards but would like to know if it is possible to raise the post height. I only need it to go higher by a centimeter or so. Any advice before I start stripping the chrome off the nuts? http://www.angel.cc/img/sprint1.jpg

Please give it a spanking from me and thanks again for your efforts in replacing it.

coops, Good luck, if you go electric you won't regret it. I'm quite physically lazy and would not be cycling *at all* were it not for the electric assist. That way I get some fresh air, 'some' excercise and it's a far more pleasant way to travel. The upright position of the Sprint is a joy - I have cycled quite a lot in Italy around an island and i loved the non-macho/non-competitive sit-up-and beg easy gliding of the bikes rather than racing about bum-in-the-air (to each their own). I think that's what I was looking for in a bike and the Sprint definitely has that stately feel.

it's back The bike is back (I think it's a different one) and it works perfectly. After Tim from 50cycles kindly brought round the charger and battery (which had not been returned with the bike) I went for a blast around the parks and it works perfectly: the take-off is much smoother and less 'notchy' than the original (in retrospect the 'notchyness' may have been connected with the fault that made it cut out) no cut outs at all, even at full open from stand-still nice power delivery all the way up to the top nicely sprung ride I'm very happy with it. Thanks to 50 cycles for sorting out the problem so graciously. I promised some pictures and will take some as soon as it stops raining :-)

I agree with you in principle; the motor has to do a *lot* of work when pulling away from a standstill and the powerful motor and battery mean that there's a high current flowing which needs to be monitored to protect the motor/battery/wires/controller. But if I were to show you it happening I think you'd agree that there's something not quite right: From a stand-still I turn the throttle gently up to about half way and it cuts out (I do not whack open the throttle all the way in one go). I have enough of a physics background (and mechanical+electrical sympathy) to know what the system is trying to do when I set off from a stand-still. The other reasons why I think it's a fault and not designed to work that way: I'm only 70Kg so I assume below the average weight used to calculate tolerances for load The cut-out happens *after* the motor actually does some work and moves the bike a few feet It does not happen due to high load at any other time (hills for example) only when starting from a standstill I completely understand that if I were carrying a bag of cement on the back, at a standstill, pulling on both brakes, with my feet on the ground and holding the throttle open all the way holding the bike back (so the motor is fighting me+inertia+brakes) then something has got to give. But that's not what is happening at all. Hopefully now that Tim at the London branch has the bike you can experience (and verify) the problem for yourselves.