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Robert M

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  1. Just to one thing to add. The controller switches the motor on after recognizing 5 pulses within 3 seconds. Also, when I say "open collector", I am not absolutely sure if that is the correct term for such a connection pin, i.e. a current limited connection on an IC or transistor which is floating at a high potential (5V) when unconnected and is switched by pulling to ground.
  2. Dave, Thanks for your info and help. I've grabbed myself an oscilloscope from work and looked at the signalss and yes, you are perfectly correct. The sensor is generating pulses. For the electronic wizards amongst you, I 've found that the sensor acts as a sink of a 5V signal which comes from the controller. The sensor is supplied by +5 and 0V on red and black. If you just supply the sensor with the supply voltage, you will see that the signal line is open circuit if there is no magnet in the vicinity. )n a scope you will typically just see some 50Hz hum or noise at the 10-30mV level. When you bring in a magnet, the sensor switches on and connect the signal line to ground, hence the hum will disappear. The controller has a 5V open collector output on the signal line and when the signal line is connected to the sensor, the signal line will be pulled to zero when a magnet is moved across the sensor. One interesting thing I noticed is the way the controller recognizes which direction you pedal. I.e if you pedal forward you want you power to the motor - however if you pedal backwards, the motor will not be energized. I looked at the timing of the high low signals on the scope. When you pedal forward, the duration of the low signal is shorter than the high signal, however if you pedal backwards, the duration of the low signal is now longer than the high signal. It appears that the controller looks at this timing ratio and only switches on the motor if the low signal is shorter than the high signal. Does anybody know how this is accomplished? I've taken apart the faulty sensor and it appears that there is only one component inside the housing. From what understand, this is just a single simple hall effect sensor. The only other component I found in there is a small capacitor soldered directly between 5V and gnd. Even though the magnets are moving across the sensor regardless if they move forward or backwards, Regards Robert
  3. Hello guys I hope one of you can help My PAS sensor has recently developed a fault. The cable had initially an intermittent fault very close to the sensor head and is now dead ! The sensor is labeled as a power assist sensor V series It was supplied with +5V (red), 0V black and and the function on peddling was to pull down the a signal on the output wire (green) from 5V to something just below 4.2 V. That was enough to tell the controller that it should power the motor. Energy to the motor is set on the display unit of the controller. I have bought a PAS sensor on ebay, but that seems to have a different function. The signal on the output wire is 0V and on pedalling the signal voltage increases. I haven't connected that PAS sensor to the controller in case something might go boom in the controller box. Can anybody please advise me on what PAS sensor ( and where ) I should get. https://www.dropbox.com/s/ur2axhf2guyjfg2/IMG_1718.JPG?dl=0
  4. Jerry, Thanks for your excellent help. Only once needed a tool to get to the inside of the motor when I just used a big enough rubber coated tool band used to remove the oil filter from my car. The "other" tool is easy to make, I have access to a big lathe at work. One question is, do I need to to tighten the screw with the allen head tightly so as to deform the outer ring of the gear assembly in order to pull everything off from the central axis or is it just necessary to apply a bit of judicious levering slowly over cross to lift the gear assembly off the central axis? Thanks again Robert
  5. Thanks d8veh for your comment. >>a nice Q85 motor, Possibly yes, but then the cable would still probably be on the same side. I am unfamiliar with the Q85 motor. Why should it be better than the Tongxin of Bafang motor? Could you send me a link for more information and where to get this motor and how much is it. Robert PS: I am in the UK
  6. Hello Jerry, I am not sure if you are still active on this forum. I was wondering if you could help me with the "tool" for dismantling the planetary gearing on a tonxin motor. Could you send me a photo (with a ruler on it) so I can see how it looks. I assume thee trick is to pull the sun gear ring and the planetary gear rings off from the center shaft. I would like to replace the whole friction gear system with a proper toothed planetary gear system. This might be slightly noisier but it should be a bit more efficient. The other aspect I would like to change is the freewheel / uni directional clutch. I am using the motor on a Brompton and I would like to change the direction of rotation such that the cable enters the motor on the right side which makes folding easier. I had twice damage to the cable at the point where it enters into the hollow axle because of the folding action. Hope you are still around and can help. Thanks Robert
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