Mikes1992

Do some motors not work with certain controllers? it's a 3 phase motor with 3 hall sensors, one of the hall sensors need replacing which is why I have a spare motor... the original seller sent me a replacement, but I'm pretty confident now that I can replace the faulty hall sensor on the original motor

The spare motor I have and the motor/kit on my main bike are rated for 1000w but I've had no issues with the police on the roads... that's because I don't go any faster then 15mph and tend to keep my power draw below 300w anyway which doesn't draw much attention (the bike can cruise at 15mph using 100-150w or even as low as 60w with a backwind), plus it increases range and puts less stress on the batteries and other components (none of my ebike parts even get warm). I only really use the extra power and speed if I feel like I'm in danger for some reason (like pulling out of a busy junction). I reckon the police would only take action if you're riding like an idiot and/or you're making it blatantly obvious that the kit is overspecced.

I was going to build a DIY battery for another bike but rated continuous power of the new battery will be around 300w, it's a budget bike but I also wanted the option to upgrade the battery in the future which would allow for a higher power output. I already have allot of spare parts laying around for a 48v system because I already have a 48v bike and I could easily swap parts and batteries between bikes if they're both 48v (and I've heard high voltage systems tend to have a higher efficiency). What I actually wanted is something like a 48v controller that can put out 500-1000w max but also has the function of setting a motor limit of 250w. Does anybody know if you can get them and if it adds much to the price? I'm not too bothered if it peaks at 250w because my current ebike seems to accelerate pretty well at that output and It can cruise along at 15mph using only using 150w.

I use a multimeter to take messurements (and also to make sure the battery isn't overcharging) and divide the total pack voltage into the number of cells within the pack (54.6v / 13 cells = 4.2v per cell)

I've read it you cycle a lithium cell between 100%-0% you might only get 500 cycles while if you cycle between 10-90% you might get 2,000 cycle and 20-80% could get 5,000 cycles. and some claimed if you cycle right in the middle of the cell you can get upto 20,000 cycles! Does anybody know the best voltages to cycle between? I barely use the capacity of my Ebike battery so I could probably goto the extremes of cycling between 60%-40%. the thing that I don't know though is the relationship between the charge level and voltage and if I cycle my cells between say, 4v(90%?) and 4.2v (100%) would that effect cycle life the same as going from 100-0%? any input or any information about the best way to cycle cells would be great... currently I've been charging upto 4.1v/cell on my scooter and I usually use around 50% of the battery pack so maybe I should charge to a lower voltage? the performance drops a bit at lower voltages though I was charging my ebike upto 4.2v and only use 25% of the pack, after reading more into cycling I think I might start reducing the voltage allot more.... performance isn't really effected because the voltage is already pretty high (it's a 48v battery, which tops out at 54.6v)

Thanks allot for your help anyway guys! I only just started using my ebike... do you know how to work out your range? I just did a 27 mile ride today (measured using GPS) and I only used 1/4 bars (on the LCD display) and my battery is measuring 50.4v and it started at 54.6v. I can't imagine it'll get a 100 mile range. It's not important though... I just wanted to know. Also, do you pick a best answer on these threads? maybe I screwed it up and opened this in the wrong format? hehe

I've charged the battery twice now it seems fine. I've covered all the wires/connections with electrical tape and made sure there's allot of clearence and isolation between the wires incase a solder joint fails. Also, If I plug the charger into the socket before the charger is powered up it sparks... I'm assuming the charger has a smoothing capacitor or something that puts a high initial load on the battery as it draws a charge so it seems better to power the charger before plugging it in because then there's only a voltage difference of 4-10v (depending on how low the battery is discharged) I will be careful that I don't touch anything metal with the connector that shorts it out... I see what you mean though about having a live pin that sticks out next to the negative ring

yes you was right... I checked the continuity with a multimeter before I read your comment but If I didn't have a meter there would be no way to know! Thank you.

http://s7.postimg.org/ci03l8xav/IMG_20160307_173747.jpg I'm not sure i'm happy with how thin the wire is but it wasn't getting hot while I was testing... although the battery is at 52v so it's probably not charging at 2 amps. I'll have to keep checking for heat when I next charge the battery when it's low

I might just make an adaptor my self, I have a DC port and a standard audio RCA jack fits the charging port just fine... I used a calculator and for a 20cm peice of wire (that was the as low the calculator length would go, the actual length of the wire will only be about 5cm) and it says it only needs to be rated at 26 awg for 54v@2amps. I have all the parts/tools I need so I might as well try Edit - I appears that audio cables aren't so simple to just cut and seperate the wires, it's like a cable within a cable.

I take it you can just unscrew the metal casing and just attach the new cable? I'll have to look into it in the morning. Thank you!

Due to a shipping mistake I have two chargers one with an RCA connection that fits my battery and the other has a standard DC power connector which doesn't fit http://s9.postimg.org/t3pb9jovf/IMG_20160306_125732.jpg I wanted an adaptor for the charger with standard DC because it's a better quality charger, it has a built in fan and has the same output voltage. the cheap charger with the RCA connector overheats (the plastic casing feels like it gets to about 70-80c) when its charging the battery and I've had to clamp a heatsink to the casing because it was getting so hot I could always make my own adaptor because I do have a standard DC port that I'm currently using for a solar panel... although It would need to be able to handle 2 amps at 54v. Thanks anyway guys! :

I've ordered the kit with the 48v 15AH (~720Wh) Lithium-NCM battery... it should be delivered within the next week or so! hopefully it all goes smoothly

my bike is a hybrid with 700x28c clinchers tyres.... i'll probably stick some decent 700x35c cyclocross tyres once I get the kit (i think the rim in the kit is slightly wider anyway).

thanks for the info guys! I think I might go for this one - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50kph-max-speed-50-70km-distance-48v-15ah-LiNCM-battery-with-48v-1000w-ebike-conversion-kit/1969951454.html