OldFart

Probably is just plastic. Ordered the controller above so i can have a play and have a backup. I have a clamp meter to test the amps, But ordered a watt meter also.

The brush holder is a large round disc of a plastic type material. Both brushes fit into the one unit.

The pictures show a 24v controller? Whats the risk with a brushed motor? Burning the brushes and commutator out? Heat and the magnets falling off (again). Although it was age last time not heat. They decided 10 years was enough and unglued themselves. Just glad it didnt happen miles from home.

So ideally on a stand and held down to stop it escaping Would it help to spin it up to a decent speed with the pedals also so it wont be a huge surge from a standing start? being a brushed motor whats the safest option? Upping the voltage a little bit. Just an extra cell 3 - 4 volts. Or a higher wattage controller? Spotted this controller (500w) and it says voltage protection 42 volts. I assume thats the max so no point putting an extra cell on which would push my pair of 5s packs which are close to 42v fully charged. Adding the extra cell would push it to a touch over 46v wont it? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-500W-motor-brush-controller-for-Electric-bicycle-scooter-/221509583991?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3393000477 No mention of a pedal sensor. As i have a cutout switch for the throttle anyway that may not be an issue. Waiting for a dry day and i will get some pics and hopefully a little video of it moving.. Added some folding pedals today which helps storing it. I can get that much closer to the wall now and less risk of hitting my leg on them.

I can try that. See how quickly it goes on the throttle then try it wil the battery direct to the wheel. I undid the 4 screws in the controller but it wouldnt come out. I didnt want to break it and for around £10 i dont mine having a spare one just in case. Or i can get a pair of 6s batteries to add to the 5s and make an 11s pack? Extra 3 - 4 volts. Safe?

Brain has been working again. Always a dangerous sign IF.. I swapped the controller from what we think is a 13Amp one to a 17Aamp one will it actually give an increase in power? Or am i restricted by the voltage alone? Thanks...

Yeah, Its working which has shocked everyone that saw it when i 1st brought it home. Although fromn 1st glance it just looks cleaner. Its had more than that. With a coat of paint on everything and the wiring altered to get the rear lights working and the additional dropper to use 12v LEDs. Swapping the locks takes an age also. They are not the same size as the old ones so had to make spacers up for them. The only one left is the seat lock which is an oddball one. Its a short lock with a slot in the rear for a flat bar. All the locks have cams with screws on the rear. I tried turning the lock down in the lathe. But cheap metal. It collapsed and fell to pieces. Need another plan on the seat lock. I plan on trying it tomorrow with freshly charged lipo's and no SLA fitted. That will reduce the weight by over 10kg. I will order some balance lead extensions and have a play to see if cutting the earth or live works best. I assume its the earth as thats the starting pin in the monitor. Yep just tried it the other way around + at the top and no power.

New here myself I have a thread in the technical section "£20 Thing". Mines a little bit of a cross between a bike and a scooter. I have an ignition key that switches the main power on in the first position. With the option of going to position 2 and putting the lights on also. I added a small voltage dropper so that i could use 12v LED bulbs instead of the 36v standard type. I have a switch that disables the throttle only mode. But it still works in pedal mode. I maybe wrong here but how will you control the speed when the pedal assist kicks in? Dont you need the throttle for that?

Had it running tonight, Too dark for pictures, But my little one went around the block on it. She said it does slow on the hills and she had to pedal. It seems to pickup fairly slowly. Both with the lipos and SLA's. But seems to get upto a decent speed. Maybe not 15mph though? I will have to try a GPS on my phone (android) any suggestions? The fibrax brakes i bought are rubbish... Going to use them to clean the wheel up then swap to the clarks? ones which seem much softer.

Sorry, Its the lipo balance LED displays with built in voltage alarms for the pack voltage and cell voltage. Like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290761737693?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Shame i couldnt leave all the wires internally, Will need to get a better charger.

Any idea on fitting the battery monitor? I have some of those digital ones that display the total voltage and the voltage for each cell. I think leaving them one will be risky, Draining the battery and maybe even burn out? Ideally i want it on a simple switch to turn them on/off. Are they a common earth?

Not quite, I think its heavy enough It houses my 2 x 5s, 4000mAh Zippy Li=Po's. Until i know the range and how it runs on the old SLA's i plan to have this as my backup get me home pack. Then swapping to this pack and adding more lipo's after. I have loads of these CD drives laying around from upgrading other peoples computers over the years. This ones a Toshiba and well made, Its got a plastic cage inside so the batteries are well protected. 2 batteries with padding fits nice. There was room to put the wiring inside, But i need access to the leads for each battery for charging. My charger wont do a 10s pack. (6s max). I can easily stack these up with a little bracket also. I can fit loads under the seat when the SLAs get removed.

On the home stretch... A bonus of the LED's for tail light and headlight. Even when the power is off and pedalling slowly by hand there is plenty of power for the LEDs. Full brightness even by hand. Most of the panels are back on. I had to remove a couple to get the wiring through.. Typical.. Not found any decent 12v LED indicator bulbs yet though. The ones i have are rubbish. Very directional and not that bright. Which is a pain because the identical red ones are good. Been playing today with this....

Nearly..... Nearly.... Not quite there yet. Not been well so had to take it easy for a while. The seat had a pin that was half the size of the hole it went through so it wobbled like mad. I made a new pin thats a much better fit. Took me most of a day though. Probably another day to make the lock for the seat. Not helped by the fact some of the plastic that supports the lock is missing. I think i bought a lock thats too long also. oops. Im sure i will make something that works. Might be running by the weekend.... Converting the lights to 12v LEDs. The tail/stop lamps are OK. I got a nice bright headlight bulb. But the indicator bulbs are rubbish.

OK... Back to amuse you all further... Cleaned all the excess glue and make sure everything was nice and clean. Inserted the hub as carefully as i could, Refitted the cover with half the screws to test it. OK are you sitting down and not eating/drinking??? Plugged the battery lead in and nothing.... Twist the throttle, pedal nothing. Checked the wiring all seems OK. Try again. Nothing. Connect battery directly to the motor. It works.. Damn did i blow the controller when the magnets let go? Anyone want to guess? Well someone may have forgotten to flick the red switch on the handlebars It works... I can start assembling it again now...