bigbadal

Hi John, I've tried that - not sure how successful it will be. The bike will be getting used again tomorrow so I will see how it does and report back in. I used superglue, not sure of its suitability on this material.

Wingreen, I have only just seen this post from you. Yes it does look like another viable option. thanks for the info.

Just wanted to update info on these tyres. The bike has now covered 1400 miles since these were fitted and obviously the weekly punctures are a thing of the past. I've pulled large shards out of these tyres so they are doing what I wanted - enabling my son to complete his 22 mile daily round trip without interruption. I've had to repair the battery pack twice in that time - but a failed battery doesn't stop him getting from A to B in a reasonable time. The rear tannus tyre if you remember is fitted to a rim not supported by Tannus and so I had to make fixing pins. These seem to be holding up well although I am aware they may not last long term as they arent flexible like the tannus ones. The tread is still good although they do seem to skid more easily that pneumatic tyres. All in all they look like they will be good for another 1400 miles. One problem I have noticed today is that the rear tyre is developing a split - possibly where one of the large shards of glass has been. I will be checking this daily now as I fear it may not take too much more daily punishment but I will soon now how that is holding out. So all in all, so far so good.... On another note I came across Green Tyres who seem to be selling a very similar product in the UK. I am puzzled about Green Tyres fitment though as the the fitting video shows a tyre with gaps for pins, but no mention of pins. I am trying to contact them to get pricing and more info. I wonder if anyone else has come across their product or used it?

Ok - thanks Neal. I've had a reply back from cyclotricity asking for output readings with the battery fully charged when switched on and switched off. I am not sure what use that info is - switched off reads zero as you'd expect. Switched on was showing 31.3. Any way, I decided to open the bottle up - there is a tech FAQ on here posted by D8veh that gives great info how to get into the unit, so having got the batterys out I was able to do some testing and ultimately traced the fault back to this.. (see pic) The main black wire going down to the connection pins had broken at the joint on the top end of the battery. It was hidden by the black wire next to it. So that is now soldered back in place and the bottle is reassembled and back on the bike. All tested good and ready for another weekly commute of 130 miles. I'll let cyclotricity know. The sheer demand of the commute the bike is doing has obviously made the joint give up, I hope my soldering is good enough to hold it in place - only time will tell. Anyway - just wanted to say thanks to D8veh for the bottle battery strip down post. I couldn't have taken the battery pack out of the case without it.

Yesterday I lost output from my 9ah bottle battery. If I take the bottle off the bike and turn it upside down ( as I did to test the output) I get volts. As soon as it is turn up the right way I lose all output. You can "feel" something move. So I have contacted Cyclotricity and will see what they say. Bike is just under the 1 year warranty period. I'll let you know how I get on with cyclotricity. Meanwhile does anyone know the likely problem. Also I would be Kean to replace this style of battery with one that clips into place but doesn't need the power feed from the controller to be inserted and screwed up ech time the battery bottle is removed, ie a battery that has the connection cable "hardwired" into its holder.

Update - Bike is off the road ATM. No issues with the tyres, but my battery pack has given up. Turn it upside down and it works. Turn it up the right way and it doesn't output any volts. Sounds like something is loose inside. Have e-mailed cyclotricity to see if its repairable......

Well at the risk of being ridiculed.... I used a strip of aluminium from B&q, used tin snips to cut to an approx size of 28mm length then used a hand crank grinding wheel to round off the edges and reduce to 27.5mm. 36 custom made clips. Fitted using the standard Tannus tool which allows you to either lever the clip into place or bang it into place. I know this is not ideal, but the bike has now done 330 miles and is looking fine. I wanted to get half round section nylon rod to make these and still will probably, but Tannus didn't reply to my question about what their clips are made of and I needed to get the bike on the road immediately. It is being used by my older son on a daily bases and he cannot afford to be without it. The aluminium clips are flexible enough to fit the tyre to the rim without damage. Ive get to try and get one out and only time will tell if they remain in place or gradually will get bent out of shape and fail.

My bike is the 500w version and whilst I use it routinely fully restricted and road legal, I have used it unrestricted again with no issues. However I have not used it unrestricted for any length of time so it is a bit of an unknown. Fair to say that for a 250w configuration, I can see no issues and I have fitted this tyre to a wider than recommended rim, using custom made clips, totally against the advice from Tannus.

OK - yes that is a good point although I've not experienced this. The fit is very tight, but with the high torque i guess that is possible, although unlikely. Thanks for the info.

I don't understand how they can't take the power of a 250w motor... How would that problem manifest - any one know?

Yes you can remove, but would just need to buy a bag of new pins as they would likely be damaged during removal. The pins are only a couple of £s.

Just to add that I use the bike unpowered at the weekends for a short local ride with my 8 yr old and they roll just fine. Longevity is the only thing I can't advise on. I will update when they have more miles on them...

Yamdude - same reasons I switched. They are great. My son is doing 22mile round trip each day and cannot afford to get flats. After the initial change of feeling from not very well pumped up tyres and tube's you forget they are on. If you Google Tannus tyre reviews there is very little not to like apart from the initial cost. Delivery was about a week from ordering...

Have fitted a pair to cyclotricity revolver. Very reassuring. Definitely a harder ride. Fitting requires a bit of muscle, but is perfectly doable. Main problem on my rear wheel is that the internal rim width is beyond the scope of Tannus supplied plastic pins. So I had to make 36 custom size. So its been two weeks and so far so good.... Pricey at £59 each (26" wheels), but having had multiple punctures and replaced tyres, tubes, fitted liners etc I have prob almost spent the same amount already, only to still get flats.! Great idea from Tannus.

thanks for that info - I had given up searching and so ended up just replacing the bearings. It's good to see there is a BB that would probably fit my old bike. thanks for that d8veh

Just for info. My old Mistral Synergys pedals went "loose" last week making it extremely difficult to ride. On inspection I found a totally disintegrated bearing. I thought I'd be able to get a bog standard all in one bottom bracket but quickly discovered this is not a standard size. The spindle is 141mm long. the actual bracket is 85mm wide. I decided I'd try and replace the faulty bearing. The bearings on the spindle are marked up as 6002 which is a standard size right? Looking up 6002 bearings I found they are 32mm outside, 15mm inside and 9mm wide. So I ordered them from simply bearings Ltd and they arrived the next morning. Disappointingly the 6002 bearings were not the right size I needed. I had to get a vernier and measure the bearings. They are in fact 31mm outside 16mm inside and 10 mm wide. I ordered the correct ones and again simply bearing s Ltd got them to me the next morning (fantastic service from them). I fitted the bearing and have the bike running again. I really don't know what I'd do if the spindle broke in any way as 141mm length spindles don't seem to exist as far as I could see. So I'm just posting this up in case anyone else has an old Synergy with a broken bearing.

check out this discussion http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/is-it-road-legal-to-restrict-a-500w-motor.15529/ My motor has a 500w sticker on it, but is restricted in the software and being ridden legally according to some. To others, it's illegal as it says 500W on the sticker.... really?!

Well, out of the box, the revolver is set up to utilise 250w motor but can be un-restricted to utilise 500w motor (dual windings - I'm not sure...?). So as sold and as used on the public highways in the UK it is legal. I wouldn't be able to advise on your 500W motor. There are some better informed people on this forum who may be able to advise.

Colban, I am on my 2nd commute today. My first attempt saw me get 2 miles down the road before the chain snapped! I got home on power alone and went to work that day on my motorbike. Cyclotricity sent a new chain out no problems with their customer service as you may have read from others posts. The broken chain was a KMC - a brand I use on other pedal bikes and on my motorbike so that was bad luck. So My first commute on friday was great. I am riding this bike as supplied - restricted. I won't be using it illegally on my commute as some of the cycle lane is "shared" and it is quite frightening for pedestrians to have bikes buzzing past at high speed, so my review to date will only be for the standard restricted power. So I am getting to ride along on assist level 5 and with some pushing maintain a good speed of about 17mph. This is allowing me to do my 8 mile commute in about 30 mins. At times it is easy to push up to 20mph and of course uphill im back to lower speeds. The bike is light and rides nicely without assist. Handling is good and the ride is comfortable, more so than my old Synergy mistral. The power delivery is slightly different to my mistral. I get a bit of lag when moving up through the gears - I haven't worked out why. I am getting a little chain jumping - I suspect I need to fine tune the shimano 6 speed gear set. The revoshift itself is fine to use. I prefer the set up on my mistral, but it is still fine on the revolver. The thumb throttle is ok, but I don't really use it as the cycle assist does everything I want. I bought the 9ah bottle battery as my commute is only 8 miles each way (16 miles per day). So far on one charge I have done 16 miles and have 2 of the 4 LEDS on the battery still lit up. I am pleased with the ride so far and want to try it out de-restricted when I find an appropriate place to do so. Brakes seem adequate and the overall experience is enjoyable. I bought this bike through the cycle scheme - list is £799.00. If I had to purchase outright, I would have looked at getting a better base bicycle and adding a kit, but being able to get the bike for almost half the list price, ready to go (almost) seems like a no-brainer. Still love my mistral, but the revolver is lighter, quicker and handles better. If it is as reliable in the longer term, I will be very pleased - I intend riding this as my main commute. I will update with any significant info over the coming days / weeks months......

thank you ajb9. Will get in touch.

Well, I had to decide between the FWD Stealth or RWD 500W Revolver and in the end just had to order the revolver...... Bike is due in a couple of days and I will post up my honest opinion when I have given the 8 mile commute a week or so. I am expecting a big improvement on my old Synergy Mistral and to be honest I love that bike.... The Revolver is lighter and having the flexibility to use more power off the public highways seems like a great option from Cyclotricity for anyone so inclined, especially buying it through the Cycle scheme.

Hi, - does anyone know where I can by a tilting saddle stem? Would save a lot of time removing and refitting the battery on my old E-bike. I have been searching the web but cannot seem to find anything.... They do come fitted to Woosh for example bikes so must be available. Any info appreciated!

I wonder if anyone can advise me? I've got a old Synergie Mistral purchased new about 5 years ago. Great bike used occassionaly and still going OK, though battery now only charges up to about 30V not the full 36v. I am about to get a new bike as my son now uses this one for college. I also want to get a new 36v battery pack for the Mistral. My thinking is that I could fairly easily replace the 36V 10 AH pack with a "bottle" shaped pack that attaches to the frame. The original battery is lithium ion and the new packs are of course lipo - lighter and a bit smaller I think. Has anyone done this? I appreciate I will need to modify the connection to my existing controller but I don't have an issue with that. Anyway, if anyone can advise, then I'd appreciate some pointers. thanks Allan