as you can see from the pics, my seat post tube is to wide for the controller housing so I have zip tied it on for the time being until I can get some longer bolts.

 

Trek tubes are super-chunky .

Hi link for diamondback great bike only 20 inch frame but 27 gears and 180 rotor on front £535 free delivery Hydraulic disc brakes brakes

Diamondback Response Comp 20" Hardtail Mountain Bike - RRP £745 | eBay

 

Frank

Thanks for the link, it does seem that the best bargains are on line though I really would like to try for size before I buy.

I have 2 bikes, one 21" and one 20" and the 20 is a bigger frame than the 21, I have the same problem with shoes!

Sorry folks for getting off subject.

Hi everyone, thanks d8veh, I wasn't sure if that was supposed to be there or not. yeah the black spacer was still on but I have removed it now, I've filed the dropouts deeper to incorporate the hub but I haven't decreased the width of the washer, it seems to fit in fine without having to do that, the washer fits in between the lips that d8veh mentioned so that seems to be sorted.

 

I was looking at he trek 3500 in the sales, its less than £400 and with a similar frame but with the mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulic, the only problem with the 3500 is that you would have the same problem with the width of the seat post tube and will have to get some longer bolts to fit the controller housing but the frames are really strong and light plus they look great

Trek 3500 Disc Hardtail Mountain Bike 2013 - Sale

 

Also my usual route to work took me an hour on Sunday and only took me 37 minutes today and that's with traffic, still a little sweaty when I got here but now I know that I'm going that little faster I can ease off a little on the fast peddling.

Edited September 19, 201312 yr by ray74

You don't have to buy a bike to get 180mm disc. You cn get them on Ebay for about £7 You need the 160/180mm adapter too.

180MM ROTOR FOR MTB BIKECLARKS WAVEY DESIGN BRAND NEW INC 6 BOLTS FREE P&P | eBay

 

This type for side mount:

[bi_King] BENGAL IS Mount Disc Adaptor 74mm-51mm For Front 180mm Rotor Red SC11A | eBay

 

This type for post mount:

Shimano Spares Adapter For Post Type Calliper, For 180 mm Post Type Fork Mount | eBay

 

Rather than buy a new bike for conversion, you can get bikes as good as new for less than half price on Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved and facebook local ads..

You don't have to buy a bike to get 180mm disc. You cn get them on Ebay for about £7 You need the 160/180mm adapter too.

180MM ROTOR FOR MTB BIKECLARKS WAVEY DESIGN BRAND NEW INC 6 BOLTS FREE P&P | eBay

 

This type for side mount:

[bi_King] BENGAL IS Mount Disc Adaptor 74mm-51mm For Front 180mm Rotor Red SC11A | eBay

 

This type for post mount:

Shimano Spares Adapter For Post Type Calliper, For 180 mm Post Type Fork Mount | eBay

 

Rather than buy a new bike for conversion, you can get bikes as good as new for less than half price on Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved and facebook local ads..

 

This is very true, if you have mounts on your forks and on the rear just above the rear drop out and have the rear wheel hub compatabilty for a disc then you will be able to fit your own mechanical disc brakes. Save some money that way.

 

My bike should be about £550/600 new but got it on eBay for £250 and its only a 2012 model. You could get the trek 3500 model on eBay for about the £200ish price.

Some things I've noticed on my bike that I need to change after doing about 30 miles on it so far...

 

I'm used to have full suspension bikes and a hard tail is a bit rough on my rear cheeks so I will be investing in a suspension seat post as soon as I can.

 

I put the throttle on the right hand side thinking it would feel the correct place to have it but now I've noticed that if and when I'm climbing a hill I have to take my thumb off the throttle to change the gears as I have the thumb shifters, there are 2 things I could do here 1. Is move the throttle to the left hand side as I never have to ever change my crank chain at all or 2. I was thinking of getting the shimano dual control shifter because the brake and gear changing is all controlled by the brake lever, I had these on my last bike and loved them so for now I'm changing the throttle to the left and then when I get my new dual control shifters I can have the option of moving it back, also on a plus note with these shifters they don't eat up as much room on the handle bars so makes a nice fit on any bike.

 

That's the couple of niggles I've found so far and hopefully that should be it once I've sorted them out.

You don't have to buy a bike to get 180mm disc. You cn get them on Ebay for about £7 You need the 160/180mm adapter too.

180MM ROTOR FOR MTB BIKECLARKS WAVEY DESIGN BRAND NEW INC 6 BOLTS FREE P&P | eBayThanks

 

This type for side mount:

[bi_King] BENGAL IS Mount Disc Adaptor 74mm-51mm For Front 180mm Rotor Red SC11A | eBay

 

This type for post mount:

Shimano Spares Adapter For Post Type Calliper, For 180 mm Post Type Fork Mount | eBay

 

Rather than buy a new bike for conversion, you can get bikes as good as new for less than half price on Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved and facebook local ads..

Thanks for that but my bikes are so old that I don't have disc mounts.

I now want a new bike after 14 years of abstinence then will give away one of mine to a deserving cause.

Someone has to buy new things or there would be no second hands ones:D

Some things I've noticed on my bike that I need to change after doing about 30 miles on it so far...

 

I'm used to have full suspension bikes and a hard tail is a bit rough on my rear cheeks so I will be investing in a suspension seat post as soon as I can.

 

I put the throttle on the right hand side thinking it would feel the correct place to have it but now I've noticed that if and when I'm climbing a hill I have to take my thumb off the throttle to change the gears as I have the thumb shifters, there are 2 things I could do here 1. Is move the throttle to the left hand side as I never have to ever change my crank chain at all or 2. I was thinking of getting the shimano dual control shifter because the brake and gear changing is all controlled by the brake lever, I had these on my last bike and loved them so for now I'm changing the throttle to the left and then when I get my new dual control shifters I can have the option of moving it back, also on a plus note with these shifters they don't eat up as much room on the handle bars so makes a nice fit on any bike.

 

That's the couple of niggles I've found so far and hopefully that should be it once I've sorted them out.

I found the same as you with the throttle and have it on the left.

Also ditto with the seat post:)

I put the throttle on the right hand side thinking it would feel the correct place to have it but now I've noticed that if and when I'm climbing a hill I have to take my thumb off the throttle to change the gears as I have the thumb shifters, there are 2 things I could do here 1. Is move the throttle to the left hand side as I never have to ever change my crank chain at all or 2. I was thinking of getting the shimano dual control shifter because the brake and gear changing is all controlled by the brake lever, I had these on my last bike and loved them so for now I'm changing the throttle to the left and then when I get my new dual control shifters I can have the option of moving it back, also on a plus note with these shifters they don't eat up as much room on the handle bars so makes a nice fit on any bike.

 

I know what you mean. Got combi-shifters on my Trek .. older XT-type.. and went to great pains to retain them when putting the build together. If I'm using the throttle on the RHS I can change up the rear cassette using my index finger whilst keeping thumb on the throttle. Obviously going back down it is just a case of pushing down the brake lever with top of the palm. Works fine, especially in traffic.

 

I've got an unsprung throttle on the LHS as well for longer rides or open roads. A switch flicks between the two. This works on continuous 'open' when set beyond the 'off position' but you can set the throttle level anywhere between 0 & max and then only adjust it 'in-ride' if you want more or less power. So no need to touch the throttle at all when changing gears - and more importantly the days of stiff thumbs history. Set & forget for as long as you want basically. If you release the brake from a stop you go back to where you were before if you don't move the throttle lever to 'off'. Obviously you need a brake cutoff when using it like this else you have to remember to move the lever back to zero or alternatively overpower the motor with your brakes. It was d8veh's 'cruise control' design.

 

I've kept the dual (throttle) system only because I'm less happy using the unsprung throttle in town or stop/start traffic, the bike is very powerful and the sprung throttle gives easier precise instant variable control (am ultra-cautious !). But if I were to only have one I'd probably have the unsprung one now I'm used to it and definitely with a less powerful bike. Can highly recommend something like this along with (or instead of) combi-shifters on a throttle bike. Having the combi-shifters releases handlebar space (although they are bulkier to fit throttle around) so having versatile throttle options covered isn't really a problem .

Edited September 19, 201312 yr by 103Alex1

We'll I've been using me new kit for 3 days now and I'm very impressed with it. I have now done my three 12 hour charges and I think the battery is fully conditioned now, on my first day on Wednesday I took it out for a 9 mile ride and then later on I did a 4 mile ride to tesco and back and then some pottering about checking what top speed I can get on a flat and up a hill, in total I did about 15/16 miles and when I got to the final hill near home my motor was starting to cut out and I knew I had used all eh battery up as I was supposed to do on the first full charge/ discharge.

The 2 day was to and from work, I rode to work with a head wind so throttle was on quite a lot to help me out and when I got there I had used 2 of the 4 green lights on the battery, at the end of the day I rode home but no head wind this time and made it back with just one green light left and close to being depleted again.

Today I have rode to work again and had the same head wind but I got to work with only 1 green light gone so it looks like the battery is at top notch and fully conditioned. Saying that though I took my time today, I did my 10 miles to work in 37 minutes yesterday instead of the normal hour it took with out the motor and today I took it steady and made it in about 45 so maybe that preserved the battery slightly.

 

I can't believe how much easier the hills feel with the assistance of the motor, turning the throttle off half way up a hill now feels like I've put a brake on and I slowly start to slow down but full throttle it again and I instantly get back up to speed but still peddling obviously. I highly recommend the cyclotricity kit to anyone thinking of upgrading their bike to electric. You can still ride as normal with out the power but believe me when you know its there you will be using it more often than not.

Oh and one other thing, yesterday I made it back from my 10 mile trek home in 35 minutes and total beat the bus I normally get, the bus takes the same route as me but with a little detour, it normally takes 40 minutes on the bus.

 

I worked out that my average speed yesterday was over 16mph.

 

On a flat with no wind and no peddling my speedo flicks between 18 and 19mph and up a small incline I was getting 12/13mph with no pedalling. Very impressed for a small motor.

I find that If I'm doing a longish ride and I don't use power for the first mile or two, it feels great when I start to use it, also when I go to pedal power only it doesn't feel quite so much of a drag.

Probably all in the mind but it works for me, no good if you have to climb hills straight away of course.

As I'm very new to this though not to cycling, it's great to hear someone else's thoughts which seem to back up my own experience.

I find that If I'm doing a longish ride and I don't use power for the first mile or two, it feels great when I start to use it, also when I go to pedal power only it doesn't feel quite so much of a drag.

Probably all in the mind but it works for me, no good if you have to climb hills straight away of course.

As I'm very new to this though not to cycling, it's great to hear someone else's thoughts which seem to back up my own experience.

 

I going to give that a go on Monday, it's my week end off so I'll be pottering about doing a few small trips. I live on a hill and I have to ride down it first and then over a small hump back bridge so I will try not using the throttle for the first mile or two, I think because it's so new I just want to use it all the time but I know as soon as I'm used to the mileage I'm doing on a daily basis I will use it a little less.

I going to give that a go on Monday, it's my week end off so I'll be pottering about doing a few small trips. I live on a hill and I have to ride down it first and then over a small hump back bridge so I will try not using the throttle for the first mile or two, I think because it's so new I just want to use it all the time but I know as soon as I'm used to the mileage I'm doing on a daily basis I will use it a little less.

 

Hi Ray..... I was looking at the pics of your bike in this thread..... it looks great and the kit incorporates really well into your bike. I especially like the black colour of the bottle battery, seems less conspicuous than the silver colour I've seen these batteries in.

Was there any reason you went for the Cyclotricity kit instead of the 8fun kit ?..... Also was the controller case included with the kit, and is there any possibility of the controller overheating being enclosed ?

Hi Ray..... I was looking at the pics of your bike in this thread..... it looks great and the kit incorporates really well into your bike. I especially like the black colour of the bottle battery, seems less conspicuous than the silver colour I've seen these batteries in.

Was there any reason you went for the Cyclotricity kit instead of the 8fun kit ?..... Also was the controller case included with the kit, and is there any possibility of the controller overheating being enclosed ?

 

hi yamdude

 

I went for the cyclotricity kit just because I heard a lot of good reports about it and its very easy to install.

the case for the controller is included with the kit but the clips that hold it to the frame aren't very wide and as you can tell from one of my picks I have held it in place until I can get some longer bolts, my frame is quite chunky though so it might just be that.

 

I have now done about 60/70 miles on it since Wednesday, doing 20 miles a day on Thursday and Friday and I haven't felt it get hot yet. hope this helps.

also I thought the same about the black battery, it goes well with my frame colour, the cyclotricity sticker on the sides can come off and I'm contemplating taking them off and replacing them with trek stickers, I thought it might make it look less electric looking.

 

I have just been reading your other thread and another reason why I opted for the cyclotricity is the fact that there are loads of dealers selling them and if I had a problem I knew I could get it resolved quite easily.

also I thought the same about the black battery, it goes well with my frame colour, the cyclotricity sticker on the sides can come off and I'm contemplating taking them off and replacing them with trek stickers, I thought it might make it look less electric looking.

 

I have just been reading your other thread and another reason why I opted for the cyclotricity is the fact that there are loads of dealers selling them and if I had a problem I knew I could get it resolved quite easily.

 

Yes, good point about a lot of dealers selling them.

It looks in your pics that you may haver the same gear shifters as me, are they Shimano EZ-Fire shifters ?

If so, has the thumb throttle fitted ok next to them ?

hi, yeah they are the same, put he throttle on the left hand side as you will need to change gears on the right and never on the left, I have put mine on the left and in between the brake lever and the shifters but its very difficult to change gear on the left BUT you will never ever need to change gear on the crank.

 

when you get your kit it best to see what suits you but to be honest shifting the crank gears will never happen.

 

hope this helps.

hi, yeah they are the same, put he throttle on the left hand side as you will need to change gears on the right and never on the left, I have put mine on the left and in between the brake lever and the shifters but its very difficult to change gear on the left BUT you will never ever need to change gear on the crank.

 

when you get your kit it best to see what suits you but to be honest shifting the crank gears will never happen.

 

hope this helps.

 

Yes, I get what your saying...... as my shifters are incorporated into the brake lever bracket, I may remove the left shifter altogether. Then I could also remove the cable and the front derailier..... less gubbins and shaves a few grams off.

I don't ride up steep hills so my chain is always on the large chain ring anyway.

You don't need a front derailleur. Just leave the chain on the big chain-wheel. If for whatever reason (like flat battery) you need the smaller one, you can hook the chain over with a twig. That's what I do on one of my bikes.

yay, it worked, thanks d8veh.

 

as you can see from the pics, my seat post tube is to wide for the controller housing so I have zip tied it on for the time being until I can get some longer bolts.

also you might notice that I have no front brake, this is due to the calliper being to wide and close to the electric hub so I have to get a 180mm rotor and adapter so that it misses the hub. and I need to change one of the tyres as they are completely different at the moment.

plus the wires coming out of the controller box are showing so I need to sort them out too but apart from those 4 things its looking quite smart I think.

Did you manage to get the 160 rotor to work or did you have to convert to a 180 if so can I ask you which adapter plate you used?

I've just ordered a 2013 Trek 4300 which was on offer but which I think will come with a 160 rotor.

I'll use it without the electrics for a few weeks to make sure it's OK but will eventually convert it.

Hi d c. The 160 rotor made my brake calliper scrape on the e-hub and there was no way of making it fit unless I put a bigger rotor on, I had a spare 203mm adapter in my tool box of spare parts so I went for a hope 203mm floating rotor in black to match the frame colour.

 

I have just checked out the spec of the 2013 model you have and it looks like you have the same hayes dyno sport brakes that I have so you will more than likely have to change the rotor, I did measure it and it looked like a 180mm will be fine but I went for the 203 just because I didn't have to buy a new post mount adapter.

 

What colour did you get btw? Green or blue?

If you do need to change any of the rotors for larger ones then the front fork adapter is called a post mount to post mount and the rear will be an international standard to post mount (or IS to post mount), you can pick them up cheap enough on eBay.

[ATTACH]6921.vB[/ATTACH]

 

This is my new rotor, sorry not a very good view but I have to lock it up at work so no little scallywags half inch my new bike.

Hi d c. The 160 rotor made my brake calliper scrape on the e-hub and there was no way of making it fit unless I put a bigger rotor on, I had a spare 203mm adapter in my tool box of spare parts so I went for a hope 203mm floating rotor in black to match the frame colour.

 

I have just checked out the spec of the 2013 model you have and it looks like you have the same hayes dyno sport brakes that I have so you will more than likely have to change the rotor, I did measure it and it looked like a 180mm will be fine but I went for the 203 just because I didn't have to buy a new post mount adapter.

 

What colour did you get btw? Green or blue?

 

Green as it was the only colour on offer with 21.5 inch frame.

Do you find the Hayes brakes OK? They don't get great reviews so maybe an upgrade in rotor size would be good.

I've become something of an expert in slowing down with minimal braking using long grass/soft ground etc. as around here the grit on the tracks is akin to carborundum grains and with V brakes it can destroy rims pretty quick.

An upgrade to perhaps a Suntour suspension seat post might also be on the cards, I feel an idea for a Christmas present coming on!

Sorry again folks for straying off topic and thanks Ray for the info.

 

Edit to say thanks for the photo, quite reassuring to see that it can be done.

Edited September 24, 201312 yr by D C