To those who know electronics well, I need to buy 2 transistors but have no idea which I need.

 

There are 2 transistors on my bike's controller which on the board are labeled T1 and D1 and the pins accidentaly broke off while mounting a heatsink, from a google search it seems T1 and D1 refers to a Transfer transistor and a Driver transistor. The numbers on them are:

T1 transistor:

NEC

K34351

55KS

 

D1 transistor:

F05

Y2010DN

 

Does anyone know where I can find transistors like these?

 

Thanks

OK I changed it with a similar one from another board and amazinlgy it worked for a short while, then it got stuck in "always on" and my only way to stop the motor was by turning the key. What could have caused this? Is it because it wasn't exactly the right transistor? That's why I want to know how to find an equivalent one from that jibberish printed on it.

The prefixes T & D mean transistor and diode. T1 is a 60V N channel power MOSFET available as 2SK3435 from the manufacturers, unfortunately I can't find any retailers stocking it. An IRF540 from Maplins may be a suitable replacement, I can't guarantee it though.

 

I can find no information on D1 other than that it may be a Skottky diode, if that is the case then something like a MBR3060PT from Maplins may do the job.

 

The Maplin stock numbers are N10AH and N20CC.

 

I must stress that these alternatives are educated guesses and are certainly not identical equivalents and therefore will not necessarily be suitable. The use of incorrect components always carries the risk of further damage.

More control problems aab1! The same bike I take it?

 

Maplin only in the UK of course, but your component suppliers in Canada will recognise the part numbers that Ian has given and might be able to supply.

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Thanks for the replies. Yes it is the same bike.

 

Would any of those 2 parts failing cause the problem I mentioned (motor goes to 100% power as soon as the key is turned, the board also works properly for about 5-10 seconds after putting a new of those 2 components and then reverts to always 100% power no matter what).

 

Also, I thought it was weird that the other was labeled "D" as for Diode but I had never seen a 3 pin diode, let alone a 3 pin diode that needs a heatsink.

 

I also searched for Skottky diode and most seem to have only 2 pins like regular diodes, why does this one have three?

 

Thanks

By the way, the replacement T1 I used is labeled:

NEC

K3435B

6XKS

 

This is the one that lasted about 10 seconds before the circuit stuck on "always on".

 

The model number seems almost identical. Will a new one cause the same result? What could be causing it to get stuck on?

 

Thanks

Edited July 24, 200718 yr by aab1

It could cause that fault in several different circumstances, but impossible to be specific without most of the circuit information for that controller.

 

Low power Schottky diodes sometimes have two connections, but very large numbers have three and are in the TO220 package or similar. Two of the connections are generally commonly connected internally though.

 

These are all Schottky diodes for example:

 

http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/R657117-04.jpg

Edited July 24, 200718 yr by flecc

What information would you need to be sure? I'd rather not buy another mosfet if it's gonna last 10 seconds like the others. I'd really like to know why this is happening.

 

My battery is also extremely, extremely, severely damaged, it was a 12Ah but I think there's about 500 ma left, it barely does 1 km with pedal assitance before dying (I want this problem fixed before getting a new battery).

I meant information to know if it might have caused the fault. That wouldn't specify the component which has to come from the supplier of that controller, but I realise from your previous posts that's not available any longer.

.

So should I just throw it out? I just bought it, this is like my 4th controller I buy and blow without ever being able to use it. I'm really getting sick of waisting so much money on controllers. I'm still using a mecanical relay as a "controller" for now. But I have only on/off ability and must accelerate to 15km/h manually before engaging the motor or the relay melts from the high amperage. This means it takes me much longer to cross a street than someone by foot since it's so hard to accelerate 260 pounds with no motor, cars HATE me since I barely have time to cross before the light returns to red for them.

 

It really is pathetic when walkers go faster than an ebike, but it's the case with my "e-bike".

Can anyone tell me why in the world bike controllers are not being made anymore? The only thing I find is the motherboards and I have to solder all the stuff and heatsinks and case and all that around the motherboard and that's how I broke them all.

 

All I'd need is ONE pre built bike controller and my problems would be over with, that's obviously too much to ask for, I've been without a working ebike all summer, was on the verge of getting a new one a few times, and now just don't know what to do.

 

My current bike is worthless without a controller. No e-bikes seem to be for sale anywhere around here except a peicew of junk strong 240 or whatever.

 

What am I ****ing supposed to do? I'm addictied to ebikes and now it looks like mine was the last built on the planet, with no controller.

 

What am I supposed to do? All I want is a damn ebike that actually works, nothing more, nothing less, but apparently this is inexistant.

You know what, maybe I'll throw all this junk away and get a $2500 bionx instead of a new car. The bionx seems to be the only option left. I really hadn't planned on spending $2500 but apparently it's the only way I could get an ebike.

 

I'm obviosuly discouraged like you can't possibly beleive. Please someone give me some hope, any hope.

The agents for other makes can supply their controllers as spares of course, if you find a suitable type of bike, but as you know, your kind of SLA battery bike is old technology which is rapidly being replaced by more modern system with very different pedelec arrangements.

 

It's a pain, but this sort of thing happens with all new technologies as they develop until a standard way of doing things is established. The first e-bike only appeared 16 years ago, and nearly all the development only goes back 7 years at most.

 

In car terms, we're in 1910.

.

After posting the above I've just seen your latest post. It's a pity your market has so few new models available, understandable since some Canadian authorities have only recently permitted e-bikes. The market will take time to develop and give better choice, our one took years to get to where we are.

 

You have a far greater, indeed almost infinite choice just over the border in the USA of course.

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Flecc, thanks for carrying on the thread while I've been at work.

 

aab1. When transistors fail they usually go short circuit, which in the case of a brushed motor will cause the motor to run at full power.

 

The K3435B (=2SK3435) you used as a replacment should had been suitable, it is possible that the function of D1 is to protect the controller from high voltage spikes induced in the motor and it's absence has caused the repeat failure. It's also possible that other components in the controller have failed.

 

If you do wish to persist with your present controller you could ask a local component supplier for an N channel power MOSFET with a Vds (voltage rating) of at least 60V and an Id (current rating) of at least 30A, preferably more. The other parameters are not too important in this application. Be sure that the pins are connected correctly, which won't necessarily be the same as what you have already and that it is mounted on some form of heatsink, a data sheet from the supplier will help. To protect the transistor from spikes connect a diode (1N4004 or similar 400v piv 1A rated silicon diode) across the motor with the cathode (The end marked with a white band) to the positive motor terminal.

 

As with the other suggestions there is no guarantee this will work but if you have a decent local supplier the MOSFET and diode should cost less than $5.

The agents for other makes can supply their controllers as spares of course, if you find a suitable type of bike, but as you know, your kind of SLA battery bike is old technology which is rapidly being replaced by more modern system with very different pedelec arrangements.

 

Which companies sell e bikes with a 36 volt brushed motor and pedal assist? Could they sell me just a controller?

 

Also, what does the battery have to do with anything? As I said many times my current lead battery has about 0.5 Ah left, it can barely do 1 km before dying and that's if I do most of the pedaling. I'm ordering a 12-13 Ah NiMH battery and charger to replace my completely dead lead acid (keep in mind I'm using a mecanical relay with no low voltage cut off so it's easy to damage the battery severely).

 

You also said newer bikes have very different pedelec arrangements, what do you mean? How are they made now?

The battery mention was as an indication of the technology age of a bike, that's what it has to do with anything.

 

With the pedelec sensor I'm referring to most having a pedal crank disc with a set of magnets in it and sensing from that. You've mentioned one incorporated in your motor which I'm not familiar with.

 

Brushed motors are almost out of the picture here now, back to what I said about old technology. Almost all ours are now brushless Hall effect motors.

 

Older Powabyke models use 36 volt brush motors and Heinzmann do some 36 volt models of their brushed motor, so they might be able to supply you, but I can't judge the suitability for your bike as I don't know it. Heinzmann of Germany have a UK dealer, Kinetics, but I can't find one in Canada or the USA. Nycewheels in the USA mention them and seem to know a lot about them, so it might be worth contacting them. On this webpage they have a 24 volt Heinzmann controller so may be able to get a 36 volt one for you. They've handled many different bikes and might be able to advise you on a replacement controller for your model.

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Edited July 24, 200718 yr by flecc

A few more brushed controller links. Fortunatly they can be pretty cheap as they're commonly available for scooters. - providing you can live with throttle only that is.

 

Electric Scooter Speed Controllers from ElectricScooterParts.com

 

 

Electric Scooter Parts Page #1

Would the mosfet IRF540ZPBF also work? The onyl store I found that sells both parts has that mosfet.

It should be OK, however the pin connections may differ. The suffix to the type number usually denotes the package type.

 

A better bet may be a replacement controller from one of the links posted by Baboonking above.

 

It seems like a lot of stuff that's readily available in the UK and especially the US is hard to get in Canada.

Controllers with pedal assist seem to be unexistant worldwide from what I could find.

 

I found an IRF540, but how do I know if the pins are in different places than the original one?

 

Thanks

The following link shows the pinouts for the IRF540, and there's a data sheet for you to download.

 

RS Components

 

I can't find any data on the NEC MOSFET you have installed at present though, so not sure if that helps.

.

Edited July 25, 200718 yr by flecc

To determine the connections on the existing MOSFET trace the wiring through the tracks on the printed circuit.

 

One wire from the battery should go (Possibly via a switch and/or fuse) to one pin on the MOSFET. If that wire is negative then the pin is the SOURCE, or if the wire is positive then the pin is the DRAIN.

 

Another MOSFET pin will go to one of the motor terminals, if it connects to the positve motor terminal then the pin is the SOURCE, otherwise it is the DRAIN.

 

The third pin is the GATE, this will not be connected directly to the motor or battery but will be connected to one or more other components.

Thanks for letting me know how to identify the pins, I know which is which now but I can't access the link you posted for the pin outs of the IRF540, it says session timed out.

To get the IRF540 data sheet, go here, enter IRF540 into the product search box then click on the pdf symbol by the IRF540 which most closely matches what is available to you, finally select data sheet in the pop up.