First test: lift the wheel off the ground and turn it fast by hand. Can you feel serious resistance? If so, disconnect it from the controller, then try again. If it frees up, you have a knackered controller. If it doesn't you have a knackered motor or motor cable.
Test 2 if test 1 is negative. With the motor and battery disconnected from the controller, on the controller wires, measure the resistance between each of the phase wires and the battery negative. They should all be the same in the range 7k to 15k. Do the same between the three phase wires and the battery positive. They should be the same as each other and in the range 7k to 14k, but may be different to the other three measurements. Any anomalies means that your controller is knackered.
If it passes those two tests, reconnect the battery , but nothing else except the LCD and switch on the LCD, then measure between the red and the black on the throttle connector. It should be 5v. Anything less means that you have a knackered controller.
If it passes those three tests, Connect the throttle, motor and battery. On the LCD connector, bridge the red to the blue and the green to the yellow. If it doesn't work now, you probably have a knackered controller or motor. If it does work, your LCD is knackered.
Last test if it passes all the above tests except the last one. Connect just the battery, motor and LCD. Measure between the red and black motor hall wires - should be 5v. If you have 5v, measure between each of the three hall signal wires and ground while you turn the wheel slowly. You should see each go on and off with 5v as you turn the wheel.
