Big Bear Hub Jamming

[gordon581]

Hi,

The latest of a million problems I've been having with the Santana Big Bear. This seems like the most serious.

Travelling to work today, when the motor engages in the front wheel it shudders noisily and squeals as though its jammed and engaging power breaks it free. No problem when I'm travelling and the wheel is turning without power but as soon as the power starts it feels like I'm about to go over the handbars.

Does this make sense? Does anyone have any ideas?

Thank you

 

[jonathan75]

The first rule of Retail Club is don't try and fix it yourself, speak to the retailer (in your most charming voice)!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Check that your motor connector is pushed in all the way to the line. Although it feels like a mechanical problem, it's actually electrical. It could also be a motor connection at the controller. Have you had the wheel off recently or dropped the bike?

 

[gordon581]

A good point I've had the controller disconnected a few days ago. I had to remove all the wiring to have a poorly welded joint repaired

 

[flecc]

Just unplug and replug those connections and you'll probably find the problem has disappeared.
.

 

[gordon581]

Opened it up and checked what I could and it all seemed fine but problem still as bad. I wish it came with a wiring diagram as there are a lot of unused wires mixed in. Will try again tomorrow

 

[trex]

can you post a picture of the inside of the controller box? we'll help you to identify the connections.

 

[Nealh]

Assuming the wiring is the same as the Big Bear kit and uses Lishui LSW 947 controller then see if the following marry up.
PAS (Red/Blue/Black) connects to same colours in black connector.
Brake cuts outs (X2) for use with inline sensors only (Red/Grey/Black) connect to (Black/White/Red) sensor wires.
Brake cut off lever type small single (White) connects to (Grey /Black), one isn't used.
Thumb Throttle large white connector ( Red/Green/Black) connects to its mate( Purple/Grey).
Speed Sensor (Wheel) can be different (Red /Blue/Yellow) connects to (Red/Green/Black)
Power 2X thick wires (Red/Black) to same from battery.
Motor 3X thick wires (Green/Yellow/Blue) to same from motor.
Black 5 pin connects to its mate from the LCD.
Other wires present but not used;
(Red/Black) (Red/ Grey) (Red/Black/Purple).

 

[gordon581]

Thanks, I've checked every connection and even stripped the wires out of the frame to make sure they werent damaged. Thanks Nealh, that was a great help. I had always wondered about that white wire connected to the grey and black.
Sadly though, the problem is as bad as ever and my bike is unable to be ridden. A mechanical friend thinks it sounds like the motor itself thats the problem. I havent a clue

 

[flecc]

Since there's no problem when cycling without power and it feels like it's locking up under power, an alternative to a connection problem can be the internal reduction gear teeth breaking up and seizing.

If you turn the wheel backwards by hand when switched off, you should get a regular slight lumpiness as the rotor magnets pull on the poles as they pass. That should have an even rhythm and not make a noise. If it's very irregular, trying to seize at some points and more free at others, it may well be the gear teeth problem.
.

 

[gordon581]

Since there's no problem when cycling without power and it feels like it's locking up under power, an alternative to a connection problem can be the internal reduction gear teeth breaking up and seizing.

If you turn the wheel backwards by hand when switched off, you should get a regular slight lumpiness as the rotor magnets pull on the poles as they pass. That should have an even rhythm and not make a noise. If it's very irregular, trying to seize at some points and more free at others, it may well be the gear teeth problem.
.

It feels almost exactly like that and is noisy pulling backwards.
Trust my luck. Probably the most expensive fault.

Thanks I appreciate everyone's help. It means I can get it fixed quickly

 

[flecc]

If so, it shouldn't be expensive, these gear sets are normally stock items for good e-bike suppliers and easily replaced.
.

 

[trex]

you should contact woosh support for help.
the BPM is very robust and the guys in their workshop can fix any motor problem.

 

[gordon581]

An update to my wheel. At considerable cost I sent the wheel back to woosh to check it out. I've just discovered an email from them asking for me to pay an extra £20 because there was considerable water ingress and I must have used a hose or pressure washer on it, or stored it in the rain when not in use. I don't own either a hose or pressure washer. My bike is used for a daily commute to and from work. In work we have a covered secure bike garage and at home its kept in my shed. I'm pretty sick of whats gone wrong with this bike in the 9 months or so I've owned it.
So far,
1, On first day I discovered the gears had not been fitted correctly and jammed my rear wheel as I changed gear. Cost me a new broken spoke and a new derailleur.
2, My speed/mileage meter stopped recording. After being asked to test all the electrics, eventually I paid for a new sensor to be posted which fixed the problem.
3, Straight after that, my throttle stopped working. Yet again despite my concerns that I didn't wish to tamper with stuff I didn't understand, I was talked into tinkering with the electrics. Eventually I paid for a new throttle and postage and it worked straight away.
4, A few weeks ago, a poor weld holding up the luggage carrier and battery snapped as I was cycling home. I couldn't ride any further and had to pay for a taxi to take us both home. I was advised I could either pay to send the bike back or get quotes and fix it myself. I choose to pay it myself rather than spend all day getting quotes then approval to get the repair done. The repair place said the the weld had only been tacked and never finished.
5, Now after all that, I find my bike doesn't seem to like to be ridden in the rain and I'm expected to pay even more to fix a bike under warranty.

All I use my bike for is a daily ride on tarmac roads to and from work. A round journey of 20 miles.

Are all electric bikes as temperamental as this? I certainly don't think much of the after sales service I've received from Woosh.

 

[trex]

you can't be expected to pay if the problem is not caused by yourself.
As you said - you don't jet wash your bike then it could be rain water. Do you park your bike under a shelter?

 

[gordon581]

you can't be expected to pay if the problem is not caused by yourself.
As you said - you don't jet wash your bike then it could be rain water. Do you park your bike under a shelter?

Yes, it's always under a shelter both at work and home. The only time it's getting wet is when I'm riding in the rain

 

[trex]

I'd ring Woosh and ask to talk to Hatti and ask her to justify to me why the charge.
BTW, do you do your own routine maintenance?
If you ride in rain a lot, it's prudent to pack the motor axle with grease to stop water ingress.

 

[gordon581]

I'd ring Woosh and ask to talk to Hatti and ask her to justify to me why the charge.
BTW, do you do your own routine maintenance?
If you ride in rain a lot, it's prudent to pack the motor axle with grease to stop water ingress.

I do basic cycle maintenance such as brakes etc. I know little about electrics. I live in Glasgow and it rarely stops raining here. I do cycle most days throughout the year and only move over to a regular cycle in the snow and ice because I have spiked tyres for it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The most common reason for water in the motor is that somebody took the wheel off and re-fitted it with the cable going upwards instead of downwards. Do you know which way yours went?

 

[trex]

e-bikes are not totally waterproofed. You don't want to pick up bills when the guarantee runs out for something that can be prevented. You want to keep the electric dry, especially battery, LCD and throttle. They are the most easily water-damaged. Paniers can help stopping the battery be rained on. Cling film can keep the LCD dry.