Brompton electrification

muckymits

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 31, 2011
419
2
Taa that might just do it, with Fleccs patented latex glove covering :D
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
I'm trying to have regen with my controller:


I'm however not sure how that works. Any idea which cable I should plug for that?
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Excellent news on the bike Cwah, D8veh informed menof your progress when I meet him tonight.
Told you 30mph was going to be scary on a folder.

Still glad your there. Even though it's not stealthy as you'd like. Always going to be a compromise on a kit untill someone designs something from the ground / frame upwards.

This is why I went sensorless as there is less cabling and connectors to worry about.

What volt and amp you chucking at it currently?
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
This is a 45 amps controller at 74V. So probably around 3000W lol

Not sure however, the CA is not compatible I have to find a way to measure the current and speed to have my idea clear.

Not sure either if I'm at 25-30 mph as it look much faster on small wheel. Will tell everyone as soon as I know
 

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
45amp, impressive! You're more likely to be nearer 2Kw at the motor after losses...the more amps the bigger the loss.
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
Yeah, so far I'm quite pleased with the motor. He can handle so many amps/volt without breaking a sweat :D

But the drag is terrible, had to cycle once without battery it was really hard. Not sure yet about efficiency, need a CA for that.


I'm looking for an inline fuse holder that could handle 37 to 100V at 30 amps and 45 amps. I've found several on ebay but the sellers told me it is only for 24V, so I couldn't use it.
eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace

Any idea where I could find such a fuse and fuse holder?
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
If you want to reduce the Hau Tong controller amps its got three shunts that you could cut to drop the amerage down. Ie cut one leaving two. Dropping 33% of the amp limit.

I used to have a Hau Tong controller. But sold it becasue it was to big and it was a 18 fet controller so it was massive.

More usable in scooter applications really. In a push bike it would have been lethal.


Try not to burn up the DD motor. Told you the little motors are good. Just keep the amp limit low ish and play with the voltage. That way you can define what speed you like the only sacrifice then is the accleration and possibly hill climbing.

Even the 250w geared motors that are legal can happliy hit 1000w without getting to hot.
As long as you put a bit of pedal effort in I believe they are safe at this level.
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
For now the motor seem really strong and isn't hot at all. So I don't feel I'm going to burn it any time.

It's only when I directly start at full throttle that the motor scream! So I'm trying not to push too hard on the throttle.

I'm planning to use this controller as spare only, waiting for now for Lyen to fix the previous one. I thought about buying your controller but I'm just not sure anymore about the robustness of these controller, and I don't want to melt 2 Lyen controller in a row (would be too much to ask him to fix it twice)
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
Anyone has an idea about on what I should connect the hi-brake in order to make it work?

I understood I may need to connect it to the positive side but it seem dangerous:
 

banbury frank

Banned
Jan 13, 2011
1,565
5
Hi You need to connect to Ground That is the black wire next to the white brake high

DON'T connect to Battery + or it will catch Fire

Frank
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
Thanks guys. I'm going to connect it to the black cable with the red plug :)

According to some guy in endlessphere there may be regen. I have to open the controller and try some combination
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
There is Regen. But you need to ground one of the pads. Think it might be X10 or X11 going from memory.
I didnt have the unit very long just brought it for test purposes but the amp limit was way to high. In the end I sold it.

Mega controller though. No wonder its not that stealth.
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
Damn, other told me it's maybe x or xs, so I've 4 different pad to test.
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Screw Regen. Its bad for the drop outs anyway with little gain other than brake pad wear.

Save regen for car's ;-)
 

neptune

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 30, 2012
1,743
353
Boston lincs
@Cwah. May I suggest that if you are making any experimental connections , you take the following precautions. If you are going to ground anything, by which I assume connect it to the battery negative, first measure if there is a voltage between the thing in question, and battery negative. Try to do this with the bike stationary, and again with it moving . I would guess that if there is a voltage with the bike moving but not with it stationary, you are probably on the right track. When you finally connect it up, use an in line fuse in the connection. Start with a 2 amp. If that blows with the bike stationary, the connection is wrong . If it blows under regeneration, try a 5amp, and then a ten. Finally choose the lowest value fuse that will allow regeneration without blowing . These are just suggestions, but may save you frying the controller.
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Realistically I personally I wouldnt bother. If its not clearly labelled on the model or controller its a risk adding those connections. The pads are also small so you need a steady hand for soldering.

The con's are definetly out weighing the pro's.

I know its a nice to have. But when I had it on the bpm when it wasn't freewheeling it didn't offer much in extra capacity at all.

If your not using a torque arm thats linked up for both roatations clockwise and anti clockwise the constant shift will put more stress on the drop out.
 

cwah

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 3, 2011
3,048
179
www.whatonlondon.co.uk
Did a big mistake. I was soldering with the battery still connected.. Then there was a huge spark and half of the controller went black lol
It smelt the burn..

I thought the controller was burnt but ironically it was still working.

This is the second time I'm stressing the controller to the max. First time the throttle went to the maximum while the bike was folded. The tyres were rubbing against the frame and in the whole building (I was at work) it smelt the burnt.

And yet, the controller is still working.

This Hua Tong is a tough guy. :)


I tried to connect the white plug to the ground without success. The ebrake plug isn't working.

However, I think I've found the regen. It's on the x pad and it seems to be working. Going to try it outside now, will tell you soon if I have regen.
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
Just let us know it your still alive.

You scare me. I thought I bodged things. Your the master.
 

banbury frank

Banned
Jan 13, 2011
1,565
5
Hi you need to enable inside the controller with a link and you also need to ether connect to a push button or use brake levers with switch you need to fit to brake low

Frank