Colour of phase and hall sensor wires. Is it standard?

[Nealh]

Hub motor wise you can use any front hub, the important bit is getting one with correct winding speed. Ideally 36v 201rpm is good for 15 - 18mph and a Bafang bpm (Big Powerful Motor) would be ideal, with heaps of torque.
Hub only have it rebuilt in to your existing rim, buying the hub only will reduce postage.
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/349-bafang-36v350w-bpm2-front-driving-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html

Or complete wheel.
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/583-bpm2-36v350w-front-driving-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html

 

[Thamosy]

After 'sleeping on it' I've come to the same conclusion. I checked on the MAC's wiring and because its wires are at the left it would mean a lot of rewiring to accommodate that. The Bafang has wires at the right and disc at the left (please correct me if that's not right) and so it should more or less 'slot in.'

Can you answer a few questions about its construction? I read somewhere that it has a screw in side plate that made access difficult. BMS pictures never show much, but a few photos on Aliexpress seem to show the usual 6 nuts. ???

Also the photos on Aliexpress show the cable not through the spindle but from the sideplate close to the spindle. Is that the way its configured?

I'm contemplating the 'hub only' though I won't lace it into my existing rim. The idea is to repair my present hub to keep as a spare and then I should never end up as now, in a kind of frustrated 'sans bike' situation.

I've sourced a suitable rim, but I'll need to do a lot of measurements before ordering the correct length spokes. Somewhere I have Sheldon Brown's book on that ......

Whether I go for a ready built wheel or a hub depends on the next couple of days. I'm going to do a bit of 'freeing up' as I did earlier this year (just waiting for the gear puller from my nephew). If I manage to stop the clutch binding it might help the decision, to DIY lace or to go for ready built. I dunno which might take greatest time (not mine, I mean for delivery).

I'm also going to get a new controller (just in case the Bafang won't match the existing one). Do you have any ideas on that? BMS battery suggest three for the BPM2, two of which are sensorless and square wave and a sensored one that's sine wave. I've no idea what is best, though because I've no pedal power I'm not keen on sensorless. I also don't know whether they'd function without the PAS connected.

I also don't know whether the connection for my existing power control unit would fit ... and so the questions go on ..... I may well be back soon asking more questions about the controllert!

 

[Nealh]

BPM axle cable exits through the end of the axle via elongated slot on rhs.
Hub isn't a two piece screw affair it is mainly one piece with rhs screw on plate which makes for dead easy access for future regreasing or bearing replacement.

Show us a pic of your controller and connectors then we can see if all will be ok, esp the motor connector. If it is 8 or 9 pin round black type then it should be totally compatible as it a Bafang and the BPM2 is also a Bafang so no need to buy a controller.Though if you decide to buy one as a spare definitely go for sinewave version.

 

[Thamosy]

I like the idea of a screw on plate. Where the wire comes out is a bit irrelevant so long as its at the righthand side (to make it easy).

As for the controller and connectors, I don't have a photo, but the wiring of my setup is not something I would have done if doing it myself. The usual wire with 3 Phase and 5 Halls has connections in two places. One close-ish to the controller with the connection for Phase wires of a type I can't remember, but I remember the Halls have a Molex one. Those connections are enclosed under the battery fitting and they are the very devil to get at, a number of bolts for the battery attachment and a whole lot more for the cover itself.

The other end of the wire has connections near the hub. That makes it easy for punctures and removing the wheel, but I thought the wires very vulnerable for my kind of wet, muddy, off road and sometimes stony tracks, so I wrapped them in a sealed polythene cover.This is a photo I took before wrapping them. I'm fairly certain they are Deutsch waterproof connectors and I'm just about to order some spares. A bit pricey, I'll only get the relevnant half.



Perhaps you can also see why I thought the wiring a bit vulnerable.


This photo was in the process of waterproofing, just a polythene wrap sealed at top and bottom with a zip tie around a rubber seal. They've come out so beautifully clean and dry that it was well worthwhile.


Tomorrow I'm ging to pull the gears and see what I can do to free up the clutch. I need the trike for next weekend and I doubt BMS battery can get me a new hub before then.

 

[Thamosy]

My weekend's work to clean and re-grease the innards of the hub has given me a lovely quiet motor, but I won't know how successful it's been until I've had a long run.

The inside of the hub is stamped with WKS-!. I'll start a new thread to see if anyone recognises that.

The news on the contoller front is that it will only fuction as a sensored one. I may well have to redo the whole wiring before I'm through.