e-bike kit sunlova wiring

stormb22

Pedelecer
Jun 18, 2010
65
0
hello i've just received a new controller from e-crazyman as an upgrade for the sunlova kit however on the sunlova controller conectors the is 6 wires going to the throttle but only 3 on the new controller i am mssing something?
any info apprectiated .
 

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
Do you have an on/off switch and battery LEDs on the throttle? If so that's what the extra 3 wires are for. The other three are the normal throttle wires. Did Sunlova send you the controller or did you buy it yourself?
 

stormb22

Pedelecer
Jun 18, 2010
65
0
sunlova kit

switch on throttle to turn throttle power on/off the controller supplied with kit from sunlova seriously lacked power in power assist mode and was more effort to use the cycle than it was without a kit, had a controller made up for the 8fun motor from e-crazyman which was recomended from some guys on here.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Have you got the thin magnetic pedal sensor to go with the controller because the thick old Sunlova one probably won't work with it? I don't know the E-crazyman controller, but it might have seperate switch and LED wires. Maybe, if you look at the main black and red power wires to the controller, the red might be doubled up with a thinner red one. The thinner red one normally switches the controller on and off, so you break it and send one end to the switch and a return from the switch to the other end. There might be another wire for the LEDs. Let us know how you get on. Did you check to see if you have that thin wire to your battery switch?
 

stormb22

Pedelecer
Jun 18, 2010
65
0
sunlova

have changed the wiring on the switch couldn't believe how thin it was have also shorted the main wire which was about a Meter too long ! sourced another pedal sensor from bms battery in china received within a week . once iv'e sorted out where the extra wires go and its all running will post back to let you know how it goes. if power still no good will count my losses and will look at possibly getting a alien kit as i have had no luck with the sunlova kit at all.if the alien kit is as good as the bike (i have a alien special also) then i can't go wrong
 

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
As d8veh says there should be a single red wire which needs to be connected to the pos battery feed, that's the 'on off' switch. There's no battery LED connection so you'll have to lose that functionality. ECrazyman could have shipped the correct pedelec sensor for you and also a three way speed controller switch for the handlebars. If the power is no good these controllers can be tweaked via software, what setup did you ask for?
 

stormb22

Pedelecer
Jun 18, 2010
65
0
sunlova wires

i asked for a controller for 8fun motor and he said would supply a 350w as i needed a bit more power than the old sunlova one i assumed it would all be the same
 

Scottyf

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 2, 2011
1,403
-1
BMS Battery do the brushless controllers you are after. However there will be a need to change some of the connectors to get it to work.

They also come with more settings like cruise control etc...

The sunlova controller I had was rated at 6amp, max 13amp. However it was tiny and very easy to conceal which was nice.
Increasing a controllers rated amp will give you more torque at the expense of range. It will not increase speed.

I now use a 10amp rated controller with 20amp peak. Which to be honest appears to be quite normal for ebikes and seems to be quite common place. If you need help with anything let us know and we will try out best to identify the leads.

However the chances of a new controller being plug and play is quite slim.
 

Trevor Holloway

Pedelecer
May 4, 2010
136
0
Not expecting a plug and play - I am pretty handy with a soldering iron & meter.
Not that interested in higher speed either 15mph is OK assisted, as I have now got fit enough to do the commute unassisted but would like to swap the front wheel over when the wind gets up or the snow comes down !
I know which wires do what and where they go.

Seems that the motor connector had come loose and the pins were arcing until the connector would no longer fit together.
My guess is that the arcing drew too much current or "confused" the controller somehow.