Ezee Torq, water damage, repair advise?

[imellor]

Hi all
I recently had this misfortune to inadvertently cycle into some water up to my knees on my Ezee Torq. As you can imagine the bike stopped. I turned off the power and dried everything out by dismantling the controller, battery and motor.

I suspected the controller was damaged and hence have purchased a new one from Cyclezee. Now I have changed the controller, my suspicions are confirmed, as I no longer get any LED errors and the motor now tries do to the right thing.

My Torq was one of the early ones that had the motor wiring all confused, ie Yellow goes to Blue, Green to Yellow etc. Having now installed the controller, I have been trying to align the motor power wires up in the correct phase. I have had the normal judder and nothing happening at all. However the best solution now appears to be to have the wires straight, colour for colour. This gives the impression that the motor is turning and I can adjust the speed, however no power is transmitted to the wheel.

I suspect that one of two things is happening, either the motor is going backwards, or the freewheel mechanism is permanently disengaged.

I have also done the trick, of supplying 5v to the motor and testing the hall effect sensors, these seem to be triggering correctly.

Could anyone answer the following questions?
1 I’m assuming that the hall effect leads are not transposed and if they were, moving the motor power leads around would correct this?
2 Has anyone taken the motor apart to know any detail of the freewheel mechanism inside?
3 Finally, anyone got any other bright ideas?

Thank you very much in advance

Regards
Ian

 

[fishingpaul]

Is it the torq 2 with the front disk brake or the old one with a suzhou bafang motor.on my torq 2 the phase wiring is blue to yellow,yellow to blue and green to green,hall sensors are wired red to red, black to black,yelo to yelo,blue to green and green to blue,this is correct when using a replacement ecrazyman or infineon controller on my torq 2,but the wiring on the bafang is different i think,have you asked john for his advice.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If that doesn't work, there's 36 possible ways to connect the halls and phase wires. Two will give correct forward motion and two will give reverse direction that will spin the motor but not the wheel because of the clutch. You can work through the conbinations writing them down so you dont get lost.

The only thing you mustn't do is open the throttle two far with the incorrect combination because the motor is effectively stalled, which causes it to draw huge current, which then blows the FETs in the controller, so be gentle on the throttle until you get it right.

 

[imellor]

If that doesn't work, there's 36 possible ways to connect the halls and phase wires. Two will give correct forward motion and two will give reverse direction that will spin the motor but not the wheel because of the clutch. You can work through the conbinations writing them down so you dont get lost.

The only thing you mustn't do is open the throttle two far with the incorrect combination because the motor is effectively stalled, which causes it to draw huge current, which then blows the FETs in the controller, so be gentle on the throttle until you get it right.

Hmm, interesting, I have just tried the 6 combinations of power wiring and two of them sounded like the motor was running backwards. I can see your logic of the hall leads also having 6 combinations, hence 6 x 6 = 36, so I guess I need to get testing. Presumably starting with one of the power combinations that sounds like the motor is going backwards?

A bit late in the day now, so I will resume my testing tomorrow evening at let you know how I get on.

Thanks

Ian

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Ian,

Sounds like the motor phase wires are not correctly matched.

If you click on the following link, you can download the service manual which has the wiring diagrams Downloads - electric bikes and conversion kits

Regards,

 

[flecc]

.
Here's the phase wire colour codes for the incorrectly coded Torq motors shown on my Torq Talk website

 

[imellor]

Hi Ian,

Sounds like the motor phase wires are not correctly matched.

If you click on the following link, you can download the service manual which has the wiring diagrams Downloads - electric bikes and conversion kits

Regards,

Thank you, although I have tried every permutation of motor phase wires, which is why I thought d8veh's post made sense.

 

[imellor]

.
Here's the phase wire colour codes for the incorrectly coded Torq motors shown on my Torq Talk website

Flecc, thanks. I had my wiring combination written down from my old controller, which doesn't work. I have now tried every combination of power leads, hence why I was looking at the possibility that the motor is running backwards (but I would have thought swapping the phase of the power leads would have corrected this).

 

[flecc]

In that case it has to be back to the Hall sensor leads as d8veh says. I haven't heard of them being miscoded for colour on these Torq motors, but I guess there's always a first time.

 

[imellor]

Hi All

I unfortunately have to report, I've blown up a FET in the new controller.

I'm not sure how it happened, I'm 99.9% sure there is nothing wrong with my motor and I was gentle with the throttle whilst testing.

I took the cover off the motor and holding the spindle central, I confirmed that the motor was going backwards.
I then re-assembled and tried the 36 wiring combinations has suggested, but still couldn't get it to work.
So then decided to take the motor cover off again and watch what was happening, it turned out that when I used the wiring specified on Fleccs page, I could touch the motor and get it going.
I reassembled and found that I was not getting enough power (I think the FET was on it's way out at this point, probably due to my over enthusiastic testing of the 36 combinations).
I measured the voltage across all three phases and couldn't get an even voltage, but I put this down to the erratic movement of the motor, putting un-even load on the controller.
So I wired up straight again and let the motor run in reverse and went to measure the voltages at the controller end (Just in case there was a wiring fault) that's when I heard a phutt sound and sparks flew from the FET.
I was surprised because the motor was turning and not under load.
So now I am left with a dead bike and 2 dead controllers :-(

Ian

 

[NRG]

Get a sensor-less controller that does not require the halls, makes life a lot easier.

 

[imellor]

Get a sensor-less controller that does not require the halls, makes life a lot easier.

Any suggestions?

 

[Cyclezee]

What a bummer Ian,

I can confirm that the motor phase wire colour codes as found Flecc's website are correct for your model of Torq 2.

As for the motor Hall wires, every eZee controller and motor uses the same colours and they match the corresponding colour from controller to motor.

It is no consolation Ian, but on later Mk2 Torq's and other models, the bullet type connectors used for the phase wires were replaced by a block of 3 Anderson connectors which can only be connected one way and even later models including those in use today, employ a single moulded block connector with 3 pins which again will only fit together one way.

These changes eliminate the Russian roulette scenario.

I have sent you an email with a couple of suggestions.

 

[NRG]

Theres the KU63 from BMS battery, e-crazyman controller off ebay, I think Juicy bikes and Kudos list controllers spares as well...many out there. You may have to muck about with the connectors for throttle / PAS etc but it would eliminate the associated problems with Hall sensors...

 

[imellor]

Thanks everyone for all your help. I have a mate who is an Ex-TV repairman, so he is going to attempt to replace the FET for me.

Ian