HELP - Bafang Rear wheel not turning after inner tube change ??

[bilabonic]

Hi All

I have a had a Faultless Bafang kit with hall sensor wires which has been faultless UNTIL NOW !!!

I had a blow out on rear rear, tyre came off rim, tube was wrapped around gearing/brakes etc BUT when i last left it (was still using bit of power to get me up hill) it was all good...

I have just fitted a new rim/inner ONLY.

All connections are good and there has been o alteration to wiring...

I have DOUBLE checked the 6 pin connector going to motor and it looks fine, BUT the wheel is not turning BUT i can hear the motor inside the geared wheel spinning ???

Any ideas what i can check ???

Its as if the 6 pin sensor plug is not plugged in ??

Cheers

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your motor's either running backwards or the clutch has jammed open.. You can tell which way the motor's turning if you take the wheel out and hold it by the axle while somebody opens the throttle. You can feel a slight reaction. If it's turning the right way, you'll have to open it to fix the clutch. If it's going the wrong way, swap any two phase wires at the controller.

Only open the throttle slowly and slightly doing the above test. If it decides to spin the right way, it can kick quite a bit.

 

[bilabonic]

Hi Dave,

It definitely going the correct way as i have NOT TOUCHED the wiring, i also hooked it up to a spare wheel hub and it did the same...

I know you can swap ANY 2 phases on 3 w phase motor to change direction but if i swap 2 i get nothing?

If i swap all 3 the motor turn slowly with NO TORQUE, i can stop i by placing bike on the ground ????

It's also pulling some current as the cables getting hot ??

VERY STRANGE ?????

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Never run an ebike at full throttle with an incorrect phase sequence. You'll melt wiring and blow the FETs in the controller. You must be gentle with the throttle until it's running correctly.

You're trying to jump the solution without finding the cause. First, you need to determine whether the motor's running backwards by the simple test I explained above.

 

[bilabonic]

I have, that was the FIRST thing i done.............

I sounds like it's single phasing when i swap any two phases.....

It also makes NO difference if hall sensor is connected or not ??

I have even removed the plugs and conected directly so connections are good ???

UPDATE -

Just tried it on a brand new code 11 wheel and it woks fine..

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Well. Which way is it running then?

 

[bilabonic]

Forward.

I just tried the new wheel again and had exact same symtoms as my current wheel, swapped 2 phases and NOTHING.

These are not like a standard 3 phase motor where swapping ANY two phases will change direction, you HAVE to all 3 correct.

After a wrtiting down differing combo's i have both motors running, and both are wired different (as you would expect from the Chinese factories)

Anyway a little heads up about above......

Cheers Dave.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is it ok now then?

 

[bilabonic]

Hi Guys, STILL have not got back on the road !!!!!!

I ams SERIOUSLY condisering buying a prebuilt bike !!!!!!!

I had spare Bafange wheel, fitted it and STILL the same symptons !!!!

I work on 3 phase BUT its as if BOTH motors are not ????

I connected up as normal, connected motor and had the wheel going fast/correct direction BUT it will not take ANY load ????

Could it be the controller ?

Cheers

 

[bilabonic]

Plus the speed the rear wheel picks up in 'unreal' there seems to be no cut off point !!!! when held of the goround/full throttle.

PLUS even if i did get it working again the movememt throw on the rear discc/wheel makes it unrideable \\!!!!!!!!

 

[Allan Macdonald]

If you have the same symptoms with two different wheels ( if I have read it correctly) then its unlikely to be the wheels. I would be looking at the controller and the wiring. Have a good look at the wiring and connectors, if, as you say, the tube wrapped around the wheel, it could have damaged wiring, and its not always easy to see. Wires could be broken inside insulation or wires pulled out of connectors, even though they look ok.
I'm assuming the battery is ok?
Allan

 

[bilabonic]

I've double/triple checked the wiring, even removed plugs and connected directly and the wheel feeedback.

Also opened up controller and it looks as new !!!

Sick of the thing now !!!!

 

[trex]

it's possible that you have a self adaptive controller for sensorless motors.
Here is the troubleshooting chart for re-arranging the phase wires:
http://www.lsdzs.net/Technical_detail/newsId=33.html

 

[bilabonic]

Self Adaptive controller ?
I might just ditch the Controller as it is a smaller/non Bafang verh version !!

I ony fitted in haste from a UK seller toget me going.....

I had also 'USED' had a load of diagrams, wireline colours etc BUT lost everything !!!!

 

[trex]

Can you post a picture of the controller?
Some controller has a wire that puts it into learning mode.
If your controller can't spin up a brand new wheel, then the fault may be within it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Does the controller have a pair of self-learning wires? If so, you need to redo the self-learning procedure.

 

[bilabonic]

I'll post a pic soon now Dave, it was a controller i had off Ebay after i burnt out my KU123 one i had from BMS.

I have opened it as there is ni damage or 'burnt smell' if anything its BETTER built than the KU123 with solid wires in the pcb tracks !!!

I can not understand how it 3 'outputs' as such when swapping the output phases-
stall
full speed (total overspeed) WAY to fast, but no torque
inside motor hub just spinning as a set speed

 

[bilabonic]

Going to try a KU123 controler, can't find my orihinal build thres and have the schematic off BMS.

Do i just short small red wire with the main +12v. I think from memory its a 'remote on' switch.

DIAGRAM - http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/364-universal-brushless-hub-motor-controller.html

 

[trex]

the LCD/LED panel connector has 4 wires, the red carries battery +, 36V in your case. Connect it to the blue wire (return from on/off switch from the LED panel), that will turn on the controller for testing. Then use your throttle to check the bike out.

 

[bilabonic]

I don't use an led panel !!!
Just plug in +12v/-12v and away.
I am only wondering what the small red wire is that is in the same connector as the main +12v/-12v.

Cheers