!!!!! HELP me with my 26" Bafang Rear Wheel Build please !!!!!

flecc · Apr 22, 2013

I'll leave the kit fitting advice to those who've fitted the BPM kits.

If you're going to do some riding off-road with that ideal bike for it, the Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre comes in other tread patterns more suitable for that than the road pattern you've linked to.

Crossover road and off-road version

Full off-road version

Sacko · Apr 22, 2013

I had exactly the same. Take the board out and slide the PCB back onto the 'shelf'.

I also put some sheet inbetween the board and the case.

Out of the throttle, I used the top; but the LED one will probs do the same.

I have just bought 2 x Maxxis Hookworms 26". 2 for £50 delivered. I used the Schwalbe Big Apples and didn't really rate them.

I also use tyre liners, work really well.

Its real easy to fit, just mount one part at a time and ill guide you through the rest when needed.

Deleted member 4366 · Apr 22, 2013

That controller's bad. The pcb should be in the slot on the side opposite the FETs, but not in the FET side. You have to take out the three screws in the side to extract it.

The tyres should be OK. If you want best performance, Schwalbe City Jets 26 x 1.95 are good, but not puncture proof.

Your first job is to try-fit the back wheel. The anti-rotation washers go on the inside of the drop-outs. Check whether the rim's central. If not, you have to dish it. Even if you don''t need to dish it, you have to check and tighten the spokes. For that you need a 13G spoke key. The ones BMSBattery sell are pretty good. You can get similar ones on Ebay, but it's a bit of a lottery how good they fit. Just thought. Don't dish it 'til you've sorted the free-wheel. See below.

Next thing to think about is a cobalt drill to drill the torque arm. Either get a set (always useful) or at least 3mm and 5mm. They're fairly cheap on Ebay, but make sure you get 5% cobalt, not cobalt coated.

Don't waste your time with the pedal sensor. It'll be too fierce. Maybe later think about one of those £60 750w Conhismotor controllers with LCD display and variable PAS.

You might have trouble fitting those throttles. If you do, I've got the small thumb throttle that fits. I ordered a couple as spares with my last battery.

The 14T free-wheel will be too low. You might as well order a 11T one from Cyclezee now. It'll save a lot of messing about later. I think he has two types. The DNP one needs spacers, so you might be better off with the other one whatever it is. Ask to check the stack-height. The 7 speed BMSBattery one is 35mm and requires two washers as spacers. The DNP one is 39mm, so as well as needing a 6mm spacer, it'll be a tight squeeze to fit it between your drop-outs.
Which battery did you get?

Sacko · Apr 22, 2013

^^ 44.4v 15ah Turnigy lipo (6 x 6s 5000)

flecc · Apr 22, 2013

bilabonic said:
I will only be commuting, so faster/slicker the better, i have another mountain bike for off road.

The rear Bafang wheel states 26" x 1.5 " do i get that size ?

The existing tyres are 26" x 1.75" ??

Cheers

Either will be ok, but since the stiff Marathon Plus tyres are on the uncomfortable side due to the thick protective inner layer, I'd prefer the larger width at a slightly lower pressure.

103Alex1 · Apr 22, 2013

I run 2.1 26" Marathon Plus MTB tyres on that 1.5 rim from BMS. Tight, but no problem fitting it. You can comfortably go anything up to that or maybe even a little higher if you wanted to. So basically choose the tyre you want and it should be fine.

Sacko · Apr 22, 2013

The 11t is the way to go, and not too bad for £25.

At 30mph though, chances are you wont want to be pedaling much. I would try the cheap freewheel and see how you find it.

wurly · Apr 22, 2013

What numbers or info is written on the hub casing?

Deleted member 4366 · Apr 22, 2013

The other possibility is a 52T or 53T on the front, but that means messing about with your front derailleur, and makes a chain-guard tricky.

flecc · Apr 22, 2013

bilabonic said:
Why is everyone getting 2" or 2.1" tyres ? Is there a reason for this ?? Weight perhaps ???

I am mainly from a road bike background and always rode 23c tyres. Less surface area the more efficient.

That's why i am considering the 1.75" marathons ?

As Schwalbe themselves point out, this isn't necessarily true. For a given pressure the narrow tyre has a longer contact patch, the wider tyre a shorter but wider contact patch, both equal in area. To make the narrow tyre more efficient through a smaller contact patch requires a higher pressure, adding to discomfort, and on the stiff Marathon Plus tyres that can mean a more uncomfortable ride from the unsprung rear of your bike.

103Alex1 · Apr 22, 2013

bilabonic said:
Why is everyone getting 2" or 2.1" tyres ? Is there a reason for this ?? Weight perhaps ???

I am mainly from a road bike background and always rode 23c tyres. Less surface area the more efficient.

That's why i am considering the 1.75" marathons ?

Guess it's the different mindset - you're not going to beat any speed records on an eBike (even a 500W job) so the relative discomfort and need for higher tyre pressure in skinny tyres goes against the general tide of a comfortable ride at lower max speeds than a racing bike where you suffer in silence to be super-fast, something you give up the minute you fit a big motor and battery on your bike.

Edit : - crossed with flecc

You can run lower pressures on bigger tyres to get more ride comfort and definitely better setup for bad road conditions or using on off-road or semi-offroad routes. I run 1.75s on my 700C with good front suspension and it's fine locked out on lovely tarmac, but still relatively grot belting along rubbish road surfaces with grilles, potholes and the usual urban / semi-urban conditions at 15-20mph. The big fat MTB tyres on 26" MTB are far more comfortable ride, even in town.... albeit the MTB saddle and riding position ensure the comfort from the tyres is negated by the frame geometry. So bringing you about full-circle to make sure one way or another you don't get it all !

Deleted member 4366 · Apr 22, 2013

bilabonic said:
I remember having a 11-23t on my road bike, fast but could not get up hills.

You didn't have 1500w of battery power helping you. With a 14T top gear, you'll be in top all the time, and you simply won't be able to pedal fast enough to keep up with the motor. It'll make more sense as soon as you start riding it.

A bit of a result getting the code 11. That should give about 25mph without pedalling with 12S lipos.

wurly · Apr 22, 2013

According to your link on your first post you asked for a 201 rpm? they sent you a code 11???
I think they made a mistake and sent you a 328rpm. It really is down to luck of the draw with BMSBattery, you never know what you are going to get.
Code 11 will be pretty fast, 11t freewheel is what you need and you'll need to wire up the speed switch.

!!!!! HELP me with my 26" Bafang Rear Wheel Build please !!!!!

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