julet cable

[yash531]

i have a Brompton with a swytch conversion. the julet cable has broken near the hub to close to do a joint. it looks like i will have to change the julet cable however i would like some advice on taking the hub apart ie which tool to use. i believe the hub is the same as the q70 in design.
perhaps somebody know of a service that would do this . failing this where to buy a new motor hub.

 

[saneagle]

i have a Brompton with a swytch conversion. the julet cable has broken near the hub to close to do a joint. it looks like i will have to change the julet cable however i would like some advice on taking the hub apart ie which tool to use. i believe the hub is the same as the q70 in design.
perhaps somebody know of a service that would do this . failing this where to buy a new motor hub.

The three screws hold the clutch onto the inside of the cover. You can use the holes to unscrew the cover if you make a suitable tool fixed to one or two of the screw threads. All you need is a flat bar with a hole in it. Fix it with a long screw, then lever it round to unscrew. Two screws and a shaped bar would be better because the screws are only 5mm and bend quite easily. The cover will unscrew much more easily if you heat it up between the spokes until it's just about too hot to touch.

Another way is to remove a screw and replace it with a cap-head one and washer. You can bash the screw round with a large hammer and screwdriver as long as you apply heat first as described above. Draw a pencil line across the join so that you can see if it's moving.

 

[yash531]

The three screws hold the clutch onto the inside of the cover. You can use the holes to unscrew the cover if you make a suitable tool fixed to one or two of the screw threads. All you need is a flat bar with a hole in it. Fix it with a long screw, then lever it round to unscrew. Two screws and a shaped bar would be better because the screws are only 5mm and bend quite easily. The cover will unscrew much more easily if you heat it up between the spokes until it's just about too hot to touch.

Another way is to remove a screw and replace it with a cap-head one and washer. You can bash the screw round with a large hammer and screwdriver as long as you apply heat first as described above. Draw a pencil line across the join so that you can see if it's moving.

thanks for the reply. i were thinking it was the other side. glad i posted and you replied . i will have a go at doing this thanks. will post back with results.

 

[Nealh]

It's surprising how tight the consealed screw joint is , I used and old bit of strong ali as a bar with a radius in it to get around the axle.
Use two of the clutch pre tapped holes and it shoud budge much easier(normal A/C/W opening), I used a club hammer wider contact area and simply gave the bar end a swift whack when I open my AKM128.

Opening is the easy bit , threading thru a new motoe cable may try your patience.

 

[yash531]

thanks . the more tips the better.

 

[StuartsProjects]

Tricky repair.

I have a TBK-74AD motor that has a fault in the motor cable just as it enters the motor. This motor looks like the same construction thats on my own older Swytch converted Brompton.

I did a new DIY conversion on a Brompton using the TBK-74AD kit from Topbikekit and the Swytch motor wheel from the older Brompton does work on the KT controller LCD4 setup on the new DIY conversion.

Whether the insides of the Swytch motor and TBK-74AD motor are the same I dont know, but from the outside they do look the same.

 

[StuartsProjects]

threading thru a new motoe cable may try your patience.

Looking at whats needed for my maybe similar insides TBK-74AD motor I would agree.

 

[Nealh]

If going the new cable route then getting it thru the hollow axle and any tight bends may be abit tricky.
A couple of tips I can offer;
1. If poss try soldering a two or three of the old cable ends to the new cable ends to help with feeding it thru ( one can remake the new cable ends after as it will be tto long).
2. Try a little spread from the fridge on the cable , spread is super slippy and should aid it's passage thru said axle.

 

[Woosh]

You need to get the right motor cable tail. It's more supple than 9pin extension lead and comes with the protective coil.

 

[yash531]

thanks to everybody whos gave me tips and advice.
the good news is i now have fixed it, however this was not east at all. removing the cover turned out to be the easy part still difficult. this was remover by putting longer screws in the holes and using a bar to move this around. Note the cover is sharp i found out when i cut my fingers trying to unscrew this. after removal of this is removing the motor from the hub, slide hammer helped though the clutch fell out leaving me now knowing how it went back together. now i can get to the cable. well i used the new cable and soldered this and it worked when tested though this would not fit in the hub. very little room to solder and dodgy eyesight this was difficult. the three phase wires and the hall sensor wires not much room to fiddly. i eventually took off the hall sensor and put three new wires to the 3 phase this worked. now back to the clutch this was pure trial and error. after many attempts i worked out how it all went together. taking off the cover and putting back on again i can now do that on a few minutes.
the conclusion no hall sensor this works very well without it slight juddering at high output, a shot break in pedalling sorts this out. the wheel free wheels far better without the sensor and the extra grease. the new three phase wires of bigger gauge and stronger straight out of the motor were joined to the new cable afterwards using marine heat shrink butt connectors. this all protected with heat shrink and gorilla tape. well it works fine without the hall sensor and apart from the slight judder its better. but it works. ps sorry for not doing photos and i were covered in grease and rather frustrated. three week on going strong Brompron been folded and ridden off road. as to the condition of the gears in the motor they look like new . these motors are worth repairing.