keen and enthusiastic, but rubbish. :-)

[Markja]

Hello folks, I have been a member for a while and have used answers on the group for a couple of problems before. but now i need help and can't find any posts that have done this before.
I have just built a bike for a friend. It has the hub motor, controller, and pas.
two issues,
1) the brakes on his bike are hydralic. i bought a magnetic switch but can't fit it as the brake set-up is not compatible. does anyone know another method?
2) there was no screen/power regulator with it. it's either off or on max with pedal assist. we want to put 3 or 4 levels of assist on. can anyone recommend a very basic 48v control.
i've put pictures of the brakes he has. and the type of handlebar controller i'd like if possible.

any help will be greatly received,
Thanks in advance folks.

 

[PC2017]

Pics of the "magnet switch"/connectors and the 4to1 cable connector? what controller brand?

 

[Nealh]

The controller type is a speed controller so max current is given nearly all the time, more so at very low speed in all 3 speed assist levels.
If one wants more control then the electrics need swapping out for a KT set up.

Brake wise for cut outs one needs a reed (open circuit )switch that activates when the levers are pulled a magnet is drawn to the sensor, this type was used on the Oxydrive kits of late. One can buy sensor types that work both way open or closed circuit.
With those tektro's a sensor would be fitted to the i/s of the reservoir chamber and a magnet attached to the rear of the lever, I wouldn't fit two cut offs as only one is really required on the rear brake.

One can buy a wired switch and then solder it to the required cable connector to suit the controller. If the controller uses three wires one omits the 5v line.

 

[Bonzo Banana]

If its something like a voilamart kit and looking at your first image I can see the direct drive motor hub in the background that looks like it could be or something very similar they work best with the throttle controller and may not have a connection for a LCD display/LED bubble button display although this varies as some do and some don't. I think these cheap kits are sold by tradehouses like Voilamart, Yosepower etc and they buy in bulk from the actual Chinese manufacturers and resell them. They are very price sensitive so will switch manufacturers to get the best price. It's at the value end of ebike kits.

Anyway their pedelec mode is more of an afterthought its full power on/off. If it is a KT controller with a connection for a normal KT LCD display then that is the best option as it gives you access to set parameters on how you want the motor to operate but you will need a LCD display model to do that. The bubble button LED displays don't have that functionality. If there is no LCD display connection I would fit the throttle to be honest.

If its a controller where regen can be enabled possibly by soldering a contact on the PCB of the controller then you will be using regen for braking most of the time to extend range. I feel mechanical disc brakes are fine and a simpler neater solution. If regen is enabled you have effectively 3 brakes, 2 mechanical or hydraulic normal brakes plus the motor braking. 2 mechanical disc brakes plus regen braking is good braking. I accept though that without regen mechanical on its own is perhaps not ideal but it really depends on the brakes and you can get mechanical/hydraulic brake mechanisms like these;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08XC2HNYD

They offer a sort of half way house in performance and are fully compatible with ebike kit supplied brake levers with proper brake cut off connections. Also the cost of them will be reduced by whatever price you can get for the original hydraulic brake kit.

Maybe a picture of the controller rating label and its connections will help us understand what that controller can and can't do.

 

[Markja]

The controller type is a speed controller so max current is given nearly all the time, more so at very low speed in all 3 speed assist levels.
If one wants more control then the electrics need swapping out for a KT set up.

Brake wise for cut outs one needs a reed (open circuit )switch that activates when the levers are pulled a magnet is drawn to the sensor, this type was used on the Oxydrive kits of late. One can buy sensor types that work both way open or closed circuit.
With those tektro's a sensor would be fitted to the i/s of the reservoir chamber and a magnet attached to the rear of the lever, I wouldn't fit two cut offs as only one is really required on the rear brake.

One can buy a wired switch and then solder it to the required cable connector to suit the controller. If the controller uses three wires one omits the 5v line.

Thanks, I will check out the brake switch in the scenario you suggest. I am living near Chepstow and the bike is near Watford , so logistics are an issue. ( I visit watford quite a lot.)
the control unit i have asked for a picture of it, so will get soon.

 

[Markja]

Pics of the "magnet switch"/connectors and the 4to1 cable connector? what controller brand?

pics have been requested. so i will post when they arrive.