KT battery life, WOW

[anon4]

Since changing to a KT controller I have done a 32 mile round trip in power assist level 3. I think it is in torque mode as the wattage stayed the same throughout, round about 300w. On my 13ah 48v battery I finished the journey with 4.55v which to be fair is nearly dead, but there are some mighty hills on the trip one which I needed to boost it to power assist 4 to conquer. With my previous controller I was lucky to get 15 miles out of it. Truly amazed.

 

[soundwave]

good luck charging that

 

[Nealh]

Just a typo/misplaced decimal point.
You can get a bit more if required down to 43v is ok, or use PAS 2 more to eke out range if needed and save the higher assist for inclines. PAS 3 gives about 33% of available amps and PAS 2 about 20%.

 

[anon4]

good luck charging that

um yeah as Nealh said typo indeed, that would barely power my lights lol

Just a typo/misplaced decimal point.
You can get a bit more if required down to 43v is ok, or use PAS 2 more to eke out range if needed and save the higher assist for inclines. PAS 3 gives about 33% of available amps and PAS 2 about 20%.

Yeah 43 is the limit before voltage collapses and the BMS says no anyway, I'd have gotten maybe 5 miles more if I was lucky and the ground was perfectly flat. It's been a while since I went on rides this long without a charge in between, I'll make it my goal to get fit enough for Pas 2 because it's not happening just yet. Don't know how anyone could use pas 1 a normal MTB would be preferable. Saying that I've ran out of juice plenty and that Pas 1 would have been nice

 

[anotherkiwi]

um yeah as Nealh said typo indeed, that would barely power my lights lol



Yeah 43 is the limit before voltage collapses and the BMS says no anyway, I'd have gotten maybe 5 miles more if I was lucky and the ground was perfectly flat. It's been a while since I went on rides this long without a charge in between, I'll make it my goal to get fit enough for Pas 2 because it's not happening just yet. Don't know how anyone could use pas 1 a normal MTB would be preferable. Saying that I've ran out of juice plenty and that Pas 1 would have been nice

PAS 1 provides enough Watts to eliminate the extra weight of the motor and battery, it is like riding a normal weight bike. On flat ground...

I use PAS 3 everywhere except on hills where I use 5. 4 is good for stiff head winds. 2 is handy when you are in a mixed pedestrian/cycle area and you are riding at 10-15 km/h.

When you say "torque" you mean the controller is set P3 = 1 I presume. The Watts on the LCD will fluctuate if you have cut off set to 25 km/h and/or if the road is undulating.

 

[anon4]

PAS 1 provides enough Watts to eliminate the extra weight of the motor and battery, it is like riding a normal weight bike. On flat ground...

I use PAS 3 everywhere except on hills where I use 5. 4 is good for stiff head winds. 2 is handy when you are in a mixed pedestrian/cycle area and you are riding at 10-15 km/h.

When you say "torque" you mean the controller is set P3 = 1 I presume. The Watts on the LCD will fluctuate if you have cut off set to 25 km/h and/or if the road is undulating.

Yes I understand it to be "torque simulation mode" as they call it. Speed is set to the max 72km which my motor will never reach. Can confirm they fluctuate but stay pretty consistent until I reach a certain speed where it will drop off a bit