New Controller

[Terry625]

Hi,

Can someone help me wire up a new controller for my bike. I bought the bike from a guy who said it worked (and as he lives 100 miles from me the option to throw it back at him is not practical) and it just needed a battery. When I got the bike home the old controller fell off, so rather than mess around with it I bought a new Chinese brushless controller (for about £10) only to find instructions are not good. After watching a YouTube video I thought it can't be too difficult.

I connected the 3 phases and hall-effect wires, connecting the wires colour for colour. I then connected the 3 wires from the throttle, again wire for wire, and then the live (red) and ground (black) and then added the small pink (switch) wire to the live wire. When I switched on and worked the throttle all I got was rumbling noises from the motor.

I then tried connecting the little white wires (programming wires) and the bike took off, thus proving it really is 24 volts and not 36 that I feared. After chasing it up my hallway I lifted the front wheel and tried the throttle, it had no effect. Disconnecting the white wires it reverted back to being a rumbling generator again.

I have not connected the brake line wires yet.

Can any one shed some light on my shed of a bike please.

A thought just occured that what if the 3 phase wires are coloured wrong what if I swap then around?

 

[Terry625]

I tried swapping the phase wires around and the front wheel just made more horrible noises than before. So that is me out of ideas.

 

[Nealh]

The process is to connect the phase colour to colour and join the learn wires (white ones), apply power to the motor and once it is working correctly switch the bike off and disconnect the learn wires. Sometimes it may take a few attempts for the learning process to work so each time if it doesn't switch off and on again until it works correctly, once it does switch off and disconnect the learn wires. It should then keep the sync sequence and next time one switches on will have it in it's memory.

For throttle use show us the wires colours but should work once the phase sync learn procedure is correct.

 

[Nealh]

A link to your new controller ?

 

[Terry625]

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I had another go late last night after seeing another Youtube video. I joined together the switch wires and this time I got a motor sound from the front wheel but no movement. I assume this the motor running backwards and is where the programme wire should come into it? I will try it.

 

[Terry625]

It is still the same, I joined the programme wires together (white ones) and the bike took off forwards, on disconnecting the wires the motor runs but sounds like it is going backwards.

 

[Terry625]

I have only just seen the post from Neath, I will give it a try several times and post the results.

 

[Terry625]

Tried what Neath suggests more than a dozen times and every time it is the same. With the 2 white wires connected the wheel starts and runs forwards, if I turn it off and disconnect the white wires twisting the throttle the motor starts and runs in reverse.

Also if I power it up with the white wires connected the wheel starts as above but if I then twist the throttle the wheel stops turning and then starts in reverse, if I turn off the power the wheel still starts forward when power is restored with the white wire connected. If I then do the same again the wheel still starts in forward with the white wires connected.

At no time does it do as Neath suggests. May be banging my head against the wall will work

BTW the throttle works as it should, the speed of the noise from the front wheel does increase as it should.

 

[Terry625]

Neath when you say connect the phase wires then the white programmimg wires should I have the hall effect wires connected as well?

 

[Nealh]

Yes the controller may not work very well sensor less.
Hub phase and sensor wires should remain connected no need to disconnect unless replacing controller.

 

[Terry625]

I can't get it to work.

 

[Nealh]

Did it come with a new display ?

 

[Terry625]

Clearly I am doing something wrong or the controller isn't right. I will try to fit the original one now that I know a little more. Can you point me at one that should work if that fails. The bike is pretty old and I think it is 250 watt @ 24 volts.

 

[Nealh]

Your new controller will need a compatible display, they should be purchased as a matching pair. One can't simply mix and match controller brands and display brands as they have differing programming and comm's protocols, it's like trying to get a Yamaha display to play ball with a bosh motor/controller or vica versa it isn't going to happen.
Even Lishui are iffy, the pair have to be matched programmed to each other to an extent as there are so many programming options. The only one's that has very few issues are the kuenteng/kt brand, as they are freely available to buy.

 

[Terry625]

There is no display with either controller and as far as I can see no way to plug one in either.

 

[Terry625]

Is this any good or is it a waste of money? Wil I need a PAS sensor with it and will it run without the brake switch connected?

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[Nealh]

It is much like the rest of the 3 speed controllers, though there are no settings to alter or paly with so should need little setting up barring the learning process and wiring in throttle and PAS correctly. You will probably need to use one brake sensor as the cheaper controllers can have over run on the PAS.
It is speed controlled so you get the speed % of the motor, whether it is limited to 25km/h is anyone's guess .
It has all the wiring needed for brakes . PAS & throttle. It has the motor hall block as well and the learn wires so you will have to do that process again. If you want PAS then get new sensor if your one is suspect.

 

[Terry625]

I don't think I have a PAS sensor on the bike, I have only just found out what one is.

 

[Nealh]

So it is officially a moped then, any pedelec or bike powered with 250w motor must be powered by pedals, this cna be TS or cadence PAS.