New Frame - what Headset do i need??

[tommie]

Hi all, Doing another build with this new Boardman frame. It`s a bare frame so the first thing i need is a Headset.

Can anyone advise what i need to order, the seller has sent the following info

"" The headset you would need is Headset size: 1 1/8” non-tapered straight steerer. Semi-Integrated zero stack headset ""

The more i look the more confusing it seems to be, many options advertised.

Could someone point to the correct item, Amazon, Ebay or wherever?

TIA

 

[esuark]

Semi-Integrated zero stack headset - Google Search

 

[Raboa]

Look up the data sheet for the frame or model and it may give you a make that it uses

I put this in Google:

1 1/8” non-tapered straight steerer. Semi-Integrated zero stack headset ""

Result

1 1/8” non-tapered straight steerer. Semi-Integrated zero stack headset "" - Google Search

You will need to take it to a bike shop, ask them for a replacement, unless you are fitting it yourself

 

[tommie]

Look up the data sheet for the frame or model and it may give you a make that it uses

Spec for the frame says this ..

Headset Type

FSA semi-Integrated

possibly this?? ---> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08FC7FF8C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2582YMDFDJBMT&psc=1

 

[Nealh]

I have the same 3XB frame , I 'm sure I used FSA # 10 integrated head set.
Though it was at least six or seven years ago now when I built it up.
Just check the specs diameter and then measure you bike to be 100%.

 

[Waspy]

Will you be fitting the headset yourself? Do you have the forks you intend to fit and are the forks new or used?

 

[tommie]

Yes, i`ll be swapping over to the new frame, forks are Suntour, nothing special..

 

[Waspy]

OK well you will need a headset bearing cup press tool to instal the bearing cups from your new headset into the frame, 10 quid on eBay. As you're using forks from another bike they will need to have a straight steerer tube (not tapered) I think that's what you have, you will need to check, tapered steerer tubes are fatter at the bottom. Next your forks will already have a crown race fitted, easy job because you will not be reusing it, just knock it off with a hammer and screwdriver. The crown race on that headset link you posted (the lowest component, silver coloured ring) is split which makes for simple installment onto your forks. Next your forks will already have the star nut fitted in the steerer tube so that saves that job. Your spacers (below your handlebar stem) should be arranged so that when you add your stem, the top lip of the stem should be 2-3mm above the steerer tube. There are tons of videos on YouTube all about this procedure, it's not very difficult. Good luck.

 

[Waspy]

Also, that wheel you pictured looks to be 700c, is it? If so, I assume your new frame is for 700c wheels?

 

[saneagle]

OK well you will need a headset bearing cup press tool to instal the bearing cups from your new headset into the frame, 10 quid on eBay.

I've fitted many head-sets. All I use is a block of wood and a mallet. I bet Neal's going to say the same.

 

[Waspy]

I've fitted many head-sets. All I use is a block of wood and a mallet. I bet Neal's going to say the same.

Yep, but thought I'd mention the correct method

 

[saneagle]

Yep, but thought I'd mention the correct method

For me, wood and a hammer IS the correct method and headset bearing cup press tool isn't because it costs money. The end result is the same as far as putting the heatset on the bike, but now I'm a millionaire because I do lots of cost saving.

 

[Nealh]

I would use a better fork then the suntour, I used 700c nex version I think and they were quite crude , clunky and noisy though did the job for hammering along trails and offroad on the downs

 

[Nealh]

I've fitted many head-sets. All I use is a block of wood and a mallet. I bet Neal's going to say the same.

Two great minds.

 

[Nealh]

The head set should come with a fork crown race to match the bottom bearings cup angle , don't forget to fit the crown race before fitting the fork.
I have used a correct dia length of tubing and a mallet to tap the crown race in to place or if you are careful a wide blade screwdriver and mallet gently tapping around the top edge to seat it.

 

[tommie]

New frame and headset turned up yesterday.
Started with installing the headset and as suggested the hammer, block of wood and screwdriver got the job done.
Next up the front forks along with handlebars and front wheel.
All going swimmingly now, next up rear 700C wheel and .......NO!!
Not a chance this is fitting, tight up against the frame even the disc is touching the side.
What do you think before i get onto the supplier?

 

[Nealh]

I used Paneracer comet 700 x 38c's on my frame and have approx. 8mm gap on the sides and to the rear of the frame.
My 3XB 700c doesn't have rim boss's.

Some 3XB frames are 26" mtb size , so suspect that is what you have !
Your frame likely isn't a 700c cyclo cross / road bike frame.

 

[tommie]

Thanks Neal, i suspect you`re right,.... these are the tyres i have, "Marathon Plus Tour Clincher Tyre Performance 28" Reflex (Wheel width: 42-622 | 28 x 1.6)" don`t know if they`re high profile or not?
I got measuring the Chain Stay, it`s 425mm from centre of BB to dropouts, the wheel was perfect in my donor bike (Whyte Hybrid) but the chain stay there is 430mm, if you get a minute could you have a look on your own?.
Although the makers box says `700C` i`m thinking too there`s been a mix up and this is a 26"size.

 

[Nealh]

My mesurements are C/L of BB ot C/L of axle in drop out 430mm.
C/L of axle in drop out to the horizontal tie bar is 378mm .

The vertical chain stay is C/L of axle to underside of the chain stay 380 mm .

 

[Nealh]

May be your issue is tyre type used and the tyre profile is just to deep.

My tyre profile is 38mm deep from the rim edge and 376mm from axle C/L to tyre outer edge.