Panasonic/Kalkhoff crank play

[flecc]

Frank, as NRG and I have said, you clearly have an agenda here, and I think you are being dishonest about your criticism. From your above posts:

Post 20: Hi looking at the forum Panasonic have major problems with the motor drive

The unit is now old fashion

and Buyers looking for crank drive should look at the NEW Bosch powered bikes

Post 24: why have Kalkhoff now using BionX motors on there 2011 bikes

Post 30: How long before the turn to using Bosch Motors

Three posts attacking the Panasonic unit or promoting rivals instead, and then this:

Post 38: It is not the fault off the Panasonic Motor

Either you are suffering from extremely short term memory loss or you are just ducking and diving to suit each post and hoping we won't notice.

In any event, you as a trader should not attack other products in this forum ever.
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[thunderblue]

Frank - I really wish you would shut up sometimes - sorry for being so blunt, but the reason I don't come on here so often anymore is that these types of posts are not helpful or what I want to read. I get fed up of reading perfectly good threads only to find them highjacked like this.

 

[Rauw]

The pedal shaft is one piece, so if it moves in and out one side, it's moving in and out on both sides equally of course. There isn't normally any lateral movement, but that to some extent depends on bearing alignments and the assembly components. Here is the complete pedalshaft assembly:

The precision ballrace at 1 locates the whole assembly in the crankcase at the left of the unit. The needle rollers at left 4 sit within the freewheel pawl housing that surrounds the freewheel engagement pawls at number 3, and that freewheel pawl housing is shown below in two views:

On that sits the precision ballrace with it's external neoprene sealing ring that locates the right hand side of the pedal shaft. You can see therefore that the two location points are separate and not solidly linked, allowing some lateral pedalshaft movement in some circumstances. That will not do any harm. Your chainwheel sits on the splines at the right of that pawl housing, so is only connected to the pedalshaft through the pedal effort torque sensing drum.

To illustrate further, the photo below shows the initially stripped assembly, showing the one piece pedalshaft and the way in which the Pawl assembly engages the pedelec torque sensing drum via splines:

The next photo shows the torque sensing drum assembly stripped, showing how the amorphous alloy sleeve engages the chainwheel mounting pawl housing at the right and the pedal shaft in the photo above on the splines at the left hand side against it's precision bearing. Therefore the whole pedal force connects through the amorphous alloy sleeve from the pedalshaft left to the chainwheel mounting pawl housing on the right. This amorphous alloy sleeve floats across the splines at each end, it has to in order to work, so in some circumstances it can be heard as it moves under pedal force.

continued below:
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[flecc]

If you only want to grease the internal gears you don't have to do any of that stripping down. You don't even have to remove the unit from the bike.

First turn over the bike, then just remove the four bolts holding the motor onto the left side of the crankcase and pull off the motor. You'll then see this:



In the hole at the centre of the motor mounting circle you'll see the edge of the nylon gear. Use a screwdriver blade to dab a little grease onto the gear teeth at that point. Then turn the bike's back wheel backwards slightly which will rotate that nylon gear a bit. Then dab a touch more grease onto the teeth. Continue doing that until the nylon gear has a little grease at several points around it.

Finally grease the helical splines of the motor shaft and refit the motor. The motor shaft rotation will distribute the grease around the large nylon gear. Job done.

N.B. The motor is sometimes a bit stuck on the crankcase wall so you might need to tap the edges with a mallet or hammer to free the bond. Any general purpose grease will be ok.
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[Janusz]

Finally, in the photo below within the torque sensing drum you see the centre tapped coils that set up a magnetic field around the amorphous alloy sleeve.

When pedal force is exerted, the stresses in the amorphous alloy sleeve transmitted via it's roughened bands (arrowed in yellow in the previous photo above) set up minute fluctuations in the coil magnetic fields, changing the coil currents, and it's these changes which the unit senses to measure the pedal effort and determine the motor power to apply.

These photos are from my Panasonic support website , never under any circumstances strip your pedalshaft assembly in this complete manner.
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Hi Flecc,
unfortunately the pictures in your very competent desscription cannot be opened (at least on my computer). Recently I have got the pawls damaged and the round spring that fixes them in their destination place broken. Do you or anyone hre have any idea if and where I can get such spare parts for my Impulse motor in Kalkhoff Agattu e-ike? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated

 

[flecc]

Hi Flecc,
unfortunately the pictures in your very competent desscription cannot be opened (at least on my computer). Recently I have got the pawls damaged and the round spring that fixes them in their destination place broken. Do you or anyone hre have any idea if and where I can get such spare parts for my Impulse motor in Kalkhoff Agattu e-ike? Any suggestions would be highly appreciated

I'm afraid I have no further suggestions for getting these Kalkhoff spares than my previous ones, Janusz.

The Panasonic ones are probably different and aren't available anyway. Here's the five photos for you in sequence:

 

[D8ve]

Just for the record I had three Panasonic drive bikes. The Panasonic end of it was faultless. The 4*4 stopped me riding normal framed bikes.
I would buy Panasonic again, even considering doing a complete build with Panasonic. It's way nicer to ride than my functional BBS01.

I would not buy or use an illegal bike. It's not worth it. A legal kit is good any faster and a moped is the right choice.
Even if assist to 40 mph would be nice.