Question/Advice needed from the techy gurus on this forum

[steveh6883]

Hi

I have a question regarding Yose/Lishui controllers

I already have a Lishui controller (and associated LCD, PAS etc), for rear 350w wheel I think, as it is MaxCurrent 18A



Looking at putting a front motor wheel on from Cyclotricitywhich is 36v 250W

Front 36V 250W Motor Wheel

Suitable replacement for our front drive bicycles and kits.

cyclotricity.com

Would this controller be OK for this wheel?

Thanks in advance

 

[Nealh]

Yes.

 

[saneagle]

Hi

I have a question regarding Yose/Lishui controllers

I already have a Lishui controller (and associated LCD, PAS etc), for rear 350w wheel I think, as it is MaxCurrent 18A

View attachment 53253

Looking at putting a front motor wheel on from Cyclotricitywhich is 36v 250W

Front 36V 250W Motor Wheel

Suitable replacement for our front drive bicycles and kits.

cyclotricity.com

Would this controller be OK for this wheel?

Thanks in advance

Yes, but use a torque arm unless you have strong steel forks.

 

[Cadence]

If you buy the Cyclotricity wheel you will also need to buy a male to female motor cable extension lead unless you already have one. They are about a tenner on ebay.

I'd be interested to know what the spec. of that motor is as I have a "spare" Yose C500 display and 15A Lishui controller.

 

[steveh6883]

Yes, but use a torque arm unless you have strong steel forks.

Thanks. It will be going on an old Powabyke Eurobyke 6 which has a full steel frame and forks in place of the original 200w brushed motor on the front

 

[steveh6883]

If you buy the Cyclotricity wheel you will also need to buy a male to female motor cable extension lead unless you already have one. They are about a tenner on ebay.

I'd be interested to know what the spec. of that motor is as I have a "spare" Yose C500 display and 15A Lishui controller.

Same here, which is why I wanted just a motor wheel

Doesn't say spec on Cyclotrocity site but I'll let you know if there is any paperwork with it

On Yose site they list the 15A controller for front 250w wheel and 18A controller for a rear 350w wheel

 

[WheezyRider]

With the C500 controller there is an option in the advanced settings where you can adjust the current to the controller. If you are worried about too many amps, you can turn it down.

I once set up a kit on a little bike for a 9 year old and turned the current down to 10 amps for safety.

 

[steveh6883]

With the C500 controller there is an option in the advanced settings where you can adjust the current to the controller. If you are worried about too many amps, you can turn it down.

I once set up a kit on a little bike for a 9 year old and turned the current down to 10 amps for safety.

Thanks. Didn't know that.

 

[Cadence]

I have a Yosepower 250w rear cassette kit on one of my bikes. I substituted a Yose "350w" 18A controller for the 15A because, as it came, the kit throttle was restricted to 6km/h "walk assist" and the max. speed could not be changed from 25km/h (although the amps could be).
Having fitted the new controller, the C500 display that came with the kit would allow a "full speed" throttle, but the max. speed setting was not in the menu.
I then realised that the controller and display with the original kit were "paired" and bought another C500 display. This, with the 18A controller, gives all the settings options.
I have the new controller set at 16A and it does give a small but noticeable improvement in performance over the original.

So, I am now left with a spare C500 display and 15a integrated downtube controller/HL1 battery mount which are restricted to 25km/h max. and only allow a "walk assist" throttle. I'm thinking of doing a converted bike for my wife and if I can find a 250w. wheel (front or cassette rear) I can re-use them. The problem really is that, as I will also need a 4in1 cable, PAS sensor and motor extension cable it would probably be easier and more cost effective to just buy a 350w rear cassette kit without battery from Yose at £199.00, which would give me the option of using a separate rack-mounted battery. I also have some 250w stickers.

 

[WheezyRider]

I have a Yosepower 250w rear cassette kit on one of my bikes. I substituted a Yose "350w" 18A controller for the 15A because, as it came, the kit throttle was restricted to 6km/h "walk assist" and the max. speed could not be changed from 25km/h (although the amps could be).
Having fitted the new controller, the C500 display that came with the kit would allow a "full speed" throttle, but the max. speed setting was not in the menu.
I then realised that the controller and display with the original kit were "paired" and bought another C500 display. This, with the 18A controller, gives all the settings options.
I have the new controller set at 16A and it does give a small but noticeable improvement in performance over the original.

So, I am now left with a spare C500 display and 15a integrated downtube controller/HL1 battery mount which are restricted to 25km/h max. and only allow a "walk assist" throttle. I'm thinking of doing a converted bike for my wife and if I can find a 250w. wheel (front or cassette rear) I can re-use them. The problem really is that, as I will also need a 4in1 cable, PAS sensor and motor extension cable it would probably be easier and more cost effective to just buy a 350w rear cassette kit without battery from Yose at £199.00, which would give me the option of using a separate rack-mounted battery. I also have some 250w stickers.

That's interesting, I was debating whether to get the 18A controller, as I wasn't sure if that would be "locked" with restricted options. I have an old C500 display, but the 15A controller died. So now I'm using a generic KT controller with an LCD 3 KT display. Unfortunately, the Yose Power PAS does not work with KT controllers/LCD3 it seems, although it will run on the throttle. So it might be worth getting an 18A controller and going back to the C500.

You don't run yours on the full 18A then?

 

[steveh6883]

I have a Yosepower 250w rear cassette kit on one of my bikes. I substituted a Yose "350w" 18A controller for the 15A because, as it came, the kit throttle was restricted to 6km/h "walk assist" and the max. speed could not be changed from 25km/h (although the amps could be).
Having fitted the new controller, the C500 display that came with the kit would allow a "full speed" throttle, but the max. speed setting was not in the menu.
I then realised that the controller and display with the original kit were "paired" and bought another C500 display. This, with the 18A controller, gives all the settings options.
I have the new controller set at 16A and it does give a small but noticeable improvement in performance over the original.

So, I am now left with a spare C500 display and 15a integrated downtube controller/HL1 battery mount which are restricted to 25km/h max. and only allow a "walk assist" throttle. I'm thinking of doing a converted bike for my wife and if I can find a 250w. wheel (front or cassette rear) I can re-use them. The problem really is that, as I will also need a 4in1 cable, PAS sensor and motor extension cable it would probably be easier and more cost effective to just buy a 350w rear cassette kit without battery from Yose at £199.00, which would give me the option of using a separate rack-mounted battery. I also have some 250w stickers.

If all you need are motor cable, Pas sensor & 4 the n 1 cable it might be cheaper to buy separately from Yose accessories page. But if you factor in wheel & motor then you are probably right that a kit would be more cost effective. Left with more parts again but at least you would have some spares

I would be interested in stickers when I come put a 350w rear on my Raleigh Pioneer

 

[Cadence]

That's interesting, I was debating whether to get the 18A controller, as I wasn't sure if that would be "locked" with restricted options. I have an old C500 display, but the 15A controller died. So now I'm using a generic KT controller with an LCD 3 KT display. Unfortunately, the Yose Power PAS does not work with KT controllers/LCD3 it seems, although it will run on the throttle. So it might be worth getting an 18A controller and going back to the C500.

You don't run yours on the full 18A then?

I'm probably just being cautious, but 16A seems to give enough performance and I don't want to risk overheating the motor or controller. It would also presumably reduce the range of the Yose battery (20A max. current) . I have another bike with the same controller but with a 350w. hub which I've also set to 16A max.

 

[Cadence]

I would be interested in stickers when I come put a 350w rear on my Raleigh Pioneer

ebike Motor Sticker 250w Electric Bike Label 4 pack | eBay

 

[steveh6883]

If you buy the Cyclotricity wheel you will also need to buy a male to female motor cable extension lead unless you already have one. They are about a tenner on ebay.

Yes, but I think I will have to wait and see what connections are on the wheel before I order a motor cable (9 pin Julet connector on the controller end) - unless motor wheels are all standard connectors?

 

[Cadence]

Yes, but I think I will have to wait and see what connections are on the wheel before I order a motor cable (9 pin Julet connector on the controller end) - unless motor wheels are all standard connectors?

Cyclotricity's own cable looks to be a standard 9 pin male/female Julet connector type, so I think you can assume their motor has a standard male 9 pin connector on it:-
Motor Cable (cyclotricity.com)
Like a lot of their accessories it's a bit pricey. There are a lot on ebay with different lengths.
Here's a 60cm:-
1 * Waterproof Motor Extension Cable 60cm Julet 9 Pin For Brushless Motor | eBay
Or, if you need 130cm or 160cm:-
E-Bike Julet 9 Pin Waterproof Plug Extension Cable Connector For Brushless Motor | eBay

 

[steveh6883]

Cyclotricity's own cable looks to be a standard 9 pin male/female Julet connector type, so I think you can assume their motor has a standard male 9 pin connector on it:-
Motor Cable (cyclotricity.com)
Like a lot of their accessories it's a bit pricey. There are a lot on ebay with different lengths.
Here's a 60cm:-
1 * Waterproof Motor Extension Cable 60cm Julet 9 Pin For Brushless Motor | eBay
Or, if you need 130cm or 160cm:-
E-Bike Julet 9 Pin Waterproof Plug Extension Cable Connector For Brushless Motor | eBay

Are the pinouts on Julet connectors all standardised?

 

[steveh6883]

I'm probably just being cautious, but 16A seems to give enough performance and I don't want to risk overheating the motor or controller. It would also presumably reduce the range of the Yose battery (20A max. current) . I have another bike with the same controller but with a 350w. hub which I've also set to 16A max.

I'm not sure I understand (new to this)
How does reducing the controller to 16A reduce the range of the battery

 

[Cadence]

I'm not sure I understand (new to this)
How does reducing the controller to 16A reduce the range of the battery

I was responding to Wheezyrider who asked why I run the controller at 16A max. rather than its full 18A. Reducing the amps will increase the range of the battery, not reduce it.I did it as a precaution when paired with my 250w motor to prevent it and the controller overheating. I'm probably being over-cautious with the sedate riding that I do though!
It also gives a bit more margin against voltage drop when drawing max. amps from the battery, albeit torque is a bit reduced (but not very noticeable). I also run the 18A controller on my other bike with a 350w hub at 16A.
About Julet connector pinouts being standardised - no they aren't. I've noticed that Yosepower reverse the male/female connectors on the 3 pin brake connectors compared to others, so even if another brand has the same pinout sequence, they won't fit together! Their display, throttle and PAS connectors might be compatible with others, but I don''t know.
As far as motor cables go, it seems that 9 pin connectors are common across the brands and an extension cable should be OK.
Looking forward to hearing your views on that Cyclotricity hub!

 

[steveh6883]

I was responding to Wheezyrider who asked why I run the controller at 16A max. rather than its full 18A. Reducing the amps will increase the range of the battery, not reduce it.I did it as a precaution when paired with my 250w motor to prevent it and the controller overheating. I'm probably being over-cautious with the sedate riding that I do though!
It also gives a bit more margin against voltage drop when drawing max. amps from the battery, albeit torque is a bit reduced (but not very noticeable). I also run the 18A controller on my other bike with a 350w hub at 16A.
About Julet connector pinouts being standardised - no they aren't. I've noticed that Yosepower reverse the male/female connectors on the 3 pin brake connectors compared to others, so even if another brand has the same pinout sequence, they won't fit together! Their display, throttle and PAS connectors might be compatible with others, but I don''t know.
As far as motor cables go, it seems that 9 pin connectors are common across the brands and an extension cable should be OK.
Looking forward to hearing your views on that Cyclotricity hub!

Thanks very much for the in depth reply
As long as motor cables are compatible I should be good as alll other cables are /came with Lishui/Yose controller, just awaiting the wheel and motor cable to start conversion/upgrade

 

[saneagle]

I was responding to Wheezyrider who asked why I run the controller at 16A max. rather than its full 18A. Reducing the amps will increase the range of the battery, not reduce it.I did it as a precaution when paired with my 250w motor to prevent it and the controller overheating. I'm probably being over-cautious with the sedate riding that I do though!
It also gives a bit more margin against voltage drop when drawing max. amps from the battery, albeit torque is a bit reduced (but not very noticeable). I also run the 18A controller on my other bike with a 350w hub at 16A.counter
About Julet connector pinouts being standardised - no they aren't. I've noticed that Yosepower reverse the male/female connectors on the 3 pin brake connectors compared to others, so even if another brand has the same pinout sequence, they won't fit together! Their display, throttle and PAS connectors might be compatible with others, but I don''t know.
As far as motor cables go, it seems that 9 pin connectors are common across the brands and an extension cable should be OK.
Looking forward to hearing your views on that Cyclotricity hub!

Counterintuitive though it may be, sedate riding is worse for the battery and controller than max speed riding unless you have turn the power down.