Raleigh Velo Trail - first impressions

[BrianP]

We solved my 5'2" wife's pedelec choice by ordering a small size 45cm Raleigh Velo Trail. Choice was based on correct size being available for her, low frame tube configuration, high quality very good price, trail/hardpack configuration.

On first view it impressed. very good looking, well made and nicely finished.

First rides were also impressive. We all thought it pulled very well, especially in high power.

Today we had a ride into Lymington and back along the gravel back road and my wife really enjoyed herself. Flying back along the cliff top as we got home, I could hardly keep up with her. My Kona Ute has a good range of at least 40 miles, and the Raleigh travelled farther on one bar than my Kona so the range looks very good.

So, a super start, the bike fits, works well and she is enjoying using it - a win win.

Brian

 

[flecc]

That's good news Brian, glad to learn it suits so well. Strangely the Raleigh e-bike site gives no range or battery details for the Velo models, though elsewhere I've found they have a lithium 36 volt 10 Ah battery with claimed range of 25 to 35 miles. Your first experience seems to indicate that range claim is justified.

 

[BrianP]

Thanks flecc for your comments. I can confirm the bike has a 10 Ah 36v lithium battery. I feel sure the range must be close to 40 miles. My Ute does 20 using just two bars, Anne's Raleigh similar and slightly better when comparing going from 3 bars showing to just two showing.
Brian

 

[vectra]

Thanks flecc for your comments. I can confirm the bike has a 10 Ah 36v lithium battery. I feel sure the range must be close to 40 miles. My Ute does 20 using just two bars, Anne's Raleigh similar and slightly better when comparing going from 3 bars showing to just two showing.
Brian

Hi.
Thank you for the input as my wife is considering this model as weight, configuration and price all appear to be acceptable!
Regards
vectra

 

[Scatty]

My first impressions were that the giant's are alot better bike both in performance & ride. If you want a 36v then the giant is more money but more powerfull but the 26v tho less in range (mileage). Both are alot smoother ride than the velo. Raleigh do use a chinnese cheap looking controller mybe this is the difference in riding, but same Dutch Tmm system

 

[BrianP]

Slightly confused by your post Scatty.

I am sure Giants are very fine bikes. The Velo has front suspension so not sure why a similar bike, the Giant Twist Esprit Power which also has front suspension, should be a lot better performance and ride? The cheaper Giants don't have front suspension, so unsure how they can have a better ride on Forest gravel roads.

The equivalent Giant is way beyond our budget.

Although there are lots of threads here about which bike is better, or best for an application, I nearly titled this thread as - "Pedelecs are wonderful" - they are terrific fun, especially when at 61 years young for me and 60 for my wife, you can fly along being young again. Hill - what hills. Headwinds - I laugh at you! If only everyone knew just what fun pedelecs are.

Brian.

 

[Scatty]

I'd rather have suspension in the seat post does your back good, I was merely going along with your post of first impression's & my first impression was that the raleigh was not as smooth as the giant when riding. Enjoy your bike

 

[Nic J]

Had mine 5 years now - done well - maybe time to replace....

 

[marwigan]

Another old post- nevertheless I have one of these and it is very eager and frankly fast, quiet and impressive all round in its performance, and which is my shopper in Wigan mostly, so not tried hills. i do note occasionally it makes a terrible grinding noise almost as if the throttle's stuck and something horrible is mashing up but switch off/on solves it- just watch it though as has a tendency to lurch and buck, so keen it is, at traffic light as with inapproproiate 'pedal to the metal'

A potential warning as well as regards the rim brakes- i found a few months ago that the rear brake in particular was grinding and shuddering in use but as still working didn't bother , then 2-3w late look at the wheel rims which i saw to my horror had been gouged by the worn-to-the-metal brake blocks.
Not so deep i couldn't have sanded them smooth but as my LBS would sell me a new wheel with shinier spokes for £35 odd quid i fitted that with the old rear sprocket helpfully switched, as also the tyre bless 'em.
Incidentally new brake shoes were good value at 'Go Outdoors', nearly half the price of other well known outlets.
As regards the battery , when i complained at Ratcliffes [of Leigh] that it seemed didn't last too long, they helpfully got me a new one , no hassle from the Raleigh rep. which shows is good to 'buy local' in general and these guys in particular.

 

[NeilP]

For future reference here are internal pics of the internals of the battery

it is 10s4p of 2.2Ah 18650 cells..Actual label on the battery I think states a conservative 9Ah


Did your wife bike come with lights build in and powered from the handle bar control unit or was the lighting switch there but not connected to anything ?..

I was given this bike as it was dead..and battery pack not charging ..two parallel groups were down to zero volts..so for now running off lipo pouch cells

 

[GeeBeeMTB]

For future reference here are internal pics of the internals of the battery

it is 10s4p of 2.2Ah 18650 cells..Actual label on the battery I think states a conservative 9Ah


Did your wife bike come with lights build in and powered from the handle bar control unit or was the lighting switch there but not connected to anything ?..

I was given this bike as it was dead..and battery pack not charging ..two parallel groups were down to zero volts..so for now running off lipo pouch cells

View attachment 20211 View attachment 20209 View attachment 20210

Hi,

Is it possible to replace individual cells or will the controller smell a rat?

 

[Nealh]

Hi,

Is it possible to replace individual cells or will the controller smell a rat?

If the system is a generic non CANbus type system then you can use a different battery, swapping out dead cells is a bit pointless if the battery is a good few years old. New cells will have to work harder to prop up the older cells that will be aged and not at their best.
Looking at the Raleigh is uses a front hub motor so the electronics between BMS & controller not overly sophisticated, the best comm's afaics is the simple type that just communicate between led/lcd & controller so they at least have to be compatible.

 

[GeeBeeMTB]

If the system is a generic non CANbus type system then you can use a different battery, swapping out dead cells is a bit pointless if the battery is a good few years old. New cells will have to work harder to prop up the older cells that will be aged and not at their best.
Looking at the Raleigh is uses a front hub motor so the electronics between BMS & controller not overly sophisticated, the best comm's afaics is the simple type that just communicate between led/lcd & controller so they at least have to be compatible.

Thanks for the speedy response. i need a triwing screwdriver to get into the battery pack, but from the photos posted by NeilP above the cells look readily accessible. the screwy is on order from ebay.

i have some experience of 18650's from mountain bike lights so am happy to have a look. unfortunately this is my wifes old bike and has been sat over the winter. the battery isnt taking a charge now (the charger light should turn from green to red when you plug it in), so i figured it was worth opening it up and checking the volts in each cell. basically the battery pack is dead as a doornail.

my mrs now rides a cube touring hybrid with a bosch mid drive (she was finding the hub motor on the raleigh deficient when we were climbing hills in the lakes etc), so im thinking about getting the raleigh going again and using it as a sort of cargo bike for me. i dont own an ebike, but there are times it would be handy to have one for picking stuff up.

i will post pics of my hamfisted findings.

thanks again.

 

[Nealh]

No harm in opening and checking the 10 cell group voltages, most common fault I would say is one or two cell groups have dipped to about 3v each so BMS will not switch to allow charging. If it is the case then you can manually raise the low cell group voltage to a match the others as near as poss and charging should then begin as normal.

 

[GeeBeeMTB]

No harm in opening and checking the 10 cell group voltages, most common fault I would say is one or two cell groups have dipped to about 3v each so BMS will not switch to allow charging. If it is the case then you can manually raise the low cell group voltage to a match the others as near as poss and charging should then begin as normal.

to do that will i need a charger with crocodile clips or something like that? i was thinking i could pop out the 18650's and drop them in my Nitecore charger. from the photos of the internals that looks like it might be feasible.

 

[Nealh]

All you need is an old 5v phone charger with the charge connector cut off and carefully monitor the voltage over the short duration of raising the voltage.
The cells holders look like they simply part to remove them so try and see, if so an easy peasy way of checking all cells.

 

[GeeBeeMTB]

All you need is an old 5v phone charger with the charge connector cut off and carefully monitor the voltage over the short duration of raising the voltage.
The cells holders look like they simply part to remove them so try and see, if so an easy peasy way of checking all cells.

if (as it looks) the cell holders easily part to give access to the individual cells, i can charge them in my "good" charger - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07KT1RPVR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

in case this doesnt work, i might be struggling, but charging individual cells will be my first gambit. once my screwdriver arrives and i can access the inside of the battery pack i will check.

thanks.