Replacement motor (+controller) for Oxydrive kit

[4vr4]

Hi everyone,

Some time ago I've posted my question here - Oxydrive motor noise for noisy motor issue. I've replaced the motor bearing and issue seemed to go away. Used the bike since, all worked well.

Recently i have replaced disk brake, what resulted into removing and re-installing front wheel. And now the noise came back. I'm also getting error on LCD saying not enough speed and motor wont kick on PAS till system rebooted (power OFF/ON). I get same error with the throttle too. Have no idea how to fix it.

I'm thinking of getting a replacement motor. I've looked into BMS battery stock and can't decide what option to go with:

Option 1: (i assume it shall be plug and play, same connector)
Get Q100 36V 250W motor only - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/333-q100-36v250w-350w-front-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html

Option 2:
Get Q100H 36V 350W motor + S06S controller (bottle mount)

Motor - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/632-q100h-36v350w-front-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html
Controller - https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/668-36v-s06s-sine-wave-integrated-controller-for-new-bottle-case-ebike-kit.html#/319-display-no_display

I'd expect to use my old LCD, PAS and speed sensors.

My concerns are if Option1 will work as plug and play? and will i benefit much going with Option2 (website says 30%)? Also option 2 controller says 250W and motor 350W. Does this matter?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Nealh]

Give Oxydrive a call and see if they have any solutions.
Out of the 2 hubs then the h version will be better 30% more torque will always be handy for hills.
The motor connector if the same may not have the wiring in the correct sequence so you may have to go through the process of trial and error with combo's available.

 

[4vr4]

I've emailed Oxydrive, will see if any options.
Is there a way to find out wiring diagram for Oxydrive motor? Anyone seen it anywhere?

 

[Gwud]

Hi, did you have any success with replacing the motor? Mines stopped working and I'm not getting any help from oxydrive so I'm trying to find a cheap replacement motor. I like the look of your option 1 but don't want to buy it if it doesn't work as a direct replacement.

Thanks
Graham

 

[4vr4]

Hi Graham,
Mine started working OK again. Fingers crossed. So I haven't done any replacements yet.

Thanks. Tom.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi, did you have any success with replacing the motor? Mines stopped working and I'm not getting any help from oxydrive so I'm trying to find a cheap replacement motor. I like the look of your option 1 but don't want to buy it if it doesn't work as a direct replacement.

Thanks
Graham

I'm pretty sure that Andrew (Oxydrive) is in China at the moment, which might be why there's delays in correspondence. he's normally pretty fast at replying. Why don't you say what's wrong with your motor and then we can help you sort it. Which kit is it?

Motors these days are pretty reliable. What makes you think that your problem lies in the motor and not in the controller, wiring, sensors, display or battery?

 

[Gwud]

Hi

It's coming up with error code 06 when power is applied. I asked Andrew who said it was a problem with the motor and that I'd not had much luck with my kit. I've not heard anything since.

It all started when the torque washer snapped in half and so the wheel rotated around the fork which damaged some cables coming from the motor. It's a shame really as I've only done 400 miles with the kit.

I'd like to find a replacement motor attached to a 26 inch mtb wheel that I can just plug straight in to the existing kit as the rest if it is basically new, it's only been charged about a dozen times or so.

Thanks
Graham

 

[Nealh]

Check your battery voltage fully charged , the battery pin connection and the wiring, 06 error on my Oxydrive kit would be low voltage.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi

It's coming up with error code 06 when power is applied. I asked Andrew who said it was a problem with the motor and that I'd not had much luck with my kit. I've not heard anything since.

It all started when the torque washer snapped in half and so the wheel rotated around the fork which damaged some cables coming from the motor. It's a shame really as I've only done 400 miles with the kit.

I'd like to find a replacement motor attached to a 26 inch mtb wheel that I can just plug straight in to the existing kit as the rest if it is basically new, it's only been charged about a dozen times or so.

Thanks
Graham

You still haven't said which kit it is!

Your explanation about the axle spinning is difficult to comprehend. Normally, the torque washers are stronger than the forks, so the drop-outs would pop or spread before the washers would fail, and there's two torque washers - one on each side. Did they both snap?

 

[Gwud]

Haha sorry, it's the OXYDrive RC 13Ah rear carrier electric bike kit.

The torque washer on the left side of the motor snapped in half and I don't know exactly what happened but I'm assuming it spun around as the cable from the motor was wrapped around the axle and had been partially split open.

It actually worked once I got a new torque washer, until this 06 error started.

I hope I've explained a bit better. I'm fairly new to ebike kits. I just bought mine and stuck it on the bike to try and make my journeys to work easier.

I've checked the cables and they seem ok. If it's under voltage is there anything I can do to correct that? The battery is showing as fully charged on the lcd and when I plus in the charger the green light comes on after a minute or so indicating fully charged.

Thanks
Graham

 

[Nealh]

Gwud as well as the torque washers for a more secure method of preventing torque rotation you should really be thinking of fitting a torque arm on the disc brake side. either make one or buy one. A new motor won't solve your issue as 06 in your case is low voltage issue you need to confirm the battery reading with a DVM to be certain of its voltage, with the battery turned on stick the two leads in the pos and neg out put terminals to get a reading of 41.5 or more if its in good condition and then check the battery and carrier pin connections.

 

[Gwud]

Thanks, I'll check the battery and see what it says.

I tried the torque arm but the squared off area is not the full length of the shift, so one cannot be fitted. Unless there's another way?

Thanks
Graham

 

[Nealh]

T/A's are usually 12 or 14mm the oxy kit needs a 12mm, you should be able to file your T/A so that it fits snuggly over the axle or you can get one from Cyclezee off ebay. On my bikes I have flat drop outs so have made one piece steel ones that snuggly fit over the axle and tied it to the disc brake mount lining up one of the bolts.

 

[Alan Quay]

T/A's are usually 12 or 14mm the oxy kit needs a 12mm, you should be able to file your T/A so that it fits snuggly over the axle or you can get one from Cyclezee off ebay. On my bikes I have flat drop outs so have made one piece steel ones that snuggly fit over the axle and tied it to the disc brake mount lining up one of the bolts.

If I read it correctly, the OP is saying that the flattened part of the shaft does not extend all the way to the end, making the end part of the axle 14mm and round. If this is the case, how do the anti-rotation washers fit on?

Some pics will help, as I'm starting to suspect a misunderstanding ....

 

[Deleted member 4366]

A new motor won't solve your issue as 06 in your case is low voltage issue you need to confirm the battery reading with a DVM to be certain of its voltage, with the battery turned on stick the two leads in the pos and neg out put terminals to get a reading of 41.5 or more if its in good condition and then check the battery and carrier pin connections.

Unfortunately, it's not as simple as that. The low voltage can be caused by a lot of things. My suspicion would be on the motor cable that got twisted. If a phase or hall wire broke, the current would go right up, which would drop the voltage. The only way to prove that is with a wattmeter between the battery and controller to see the current.

When you get that sort of problem, there can be consequential damage to the controller. You won't know about that until you have a new motor to try.

I have a spare motor-wheel wheel that had a stuck clutch. I replaced the clutch with a new one. Would you consider that as replacement?

Finally, Installation of a front motor can bring all sorts of problems if not done properly. The washers all have to be properly located and then the axle nuts done up very tight. It's the friction from the nuts and washers that stops the axle from rotating, not the anti-rotation washers. A common problem is that the axle diameter is larger than the original, so the centre is displaced by a couple of mm. This means that the washer on the outside of the dropout can't sit in the dimple (if it has one), so you tighten the nut against a bending washer instead of a flat one. You can do it tight, but after a few miles, it works loose, and the axle turns. With that washer not fitting in the dimple, I've seen the dropout pop just by tightening the nut to normal torque. I always recommend, filing the dropouts deeper to re-centre the axle and use a torque arm as extra security.

What size wheel is it?

 

[Gwud]

Hi

Thanks all for your replies. This is a pretty helpful forum!

My wheel is 26 inch. I'd be very happy to have a repaired one as a replacement but I've checked the voltage and it's only reading 33, so I'm guessing there is a problem with the battery.

Could that have been caused by a damaged cable from the motor drawing too much current?

You are correct in saying the flattened part of the shaft does not extend all the way out. It comes out about 6mm, which allows the torque washer to fit, then is rounded the rest of the length.

Is it likely that this kit is ruined now? I hope there's some way to salvage it, I've only done 400 miles on it.

Thanks for all your help
Graham