Think I've burnt something out! -short Video

[bikemadvinnie]

Hi Folks,
I think I've burnt something out on my converted ebike, too bad since it was working so well! I've taken 2 short videos to show you how its behaving now, as you'll see when I turn the crank to activate the pedellec function -instead of the motor kicking in as usual, it just clicks:
YouTube - Hub Motor Problem 1

YouTube - Hub Motor Problem 2

It happened after a steep winding climb of about a mile! Nice picturesque cycle too, and it happened at the top so at least it was downhill all the way home! First I thought it was the battery, but that's fully charged now...

Anyway a bit of background info:
used a 24 volt Alien kit
Its about a year and a half old
Its just pedellec no throttle
I haven't interfered with the controller

I wonder did I damage the controller or perhaps the motors!

 

[flecc]

It sounds mechanical within the motor, for example the freewheeling mechanism fallen to pieces or the orbital nylon drive gears shredded.

Replacement gear sets are usually available, and possibly the freewheel.

To strip the motor and check after disconnecting the woring and removing the wheel, the whole motor core can be withdrawn from the hub shell. To do that, remove the six screws that hold on the side plate of the hub, then remove the nut on the spindle on the opposite side that holds the core in place. Give a sharp tap with a hammer onto the spindle end to break the side plate seal onto the hub, then withdraw the side plate with it's bearing. Finally withdraw the motor core, taking care to recover any shims that are on the inner side of the spindle and which may be stuck to the inner bearing end.

If the gears have failed, they and the toothed plastic gear rack comprise the set to replace, there are screws holding the rack into the hub shell. The photos below show the details:

 

[bikemadvinnie]

It sounds mechanical within the motor, for example the freewheeling mechanism fallen to pieces or the orbital nylon drive gears shredded.

Replacement gear sets are usually available, and possibly the freewheel.

To strip the motor and check after disconnecting the woring and removing the wheel, the whole motor core can be withdrawn from the hub shell. To do that, remove the six screws that hold on the side plate of the hub, then remove the nut on the spindle on the opposite side that holds the core in place. Give a sharp tap with a hammer onto the spindle end to break the side plate seal onto the hub, then withdraw the side plate with it's bearing. Finally withdraw the motor core, taking care to recover any shims that are on the inner side of the spindle and which may be stuck to the inner bearing end.

If the gears have failed, they and the toothed plastic gear rack comprise the set to replace, there are screws holding the rack into the hub shell. The photos below show the details:

Thank a mil for that reply and i could certainly check that out if necessary.

This may not be relevant but I just checked the bike, and there does not appear to be anything loose in the wheel -it feels very solid and the free wheel direction feels fine, and moving it in the opposite direction feels as usual too...

Its just occurred to me as well that the bike has actually done less than 1000miles!

 

[flecc]

If it turns forward freely but you can feel the motor drag and slight regular snatching as you turn te wheel slowly backward, all will be well mechanically.

In that case it will be electrical, but it's still difficult to account for that odd noise.
.

 

[Cyclezee]

The motor looks like new, I'm surprised it it is more than a year old. Unfortunately it will be outside warranty, but it might be worth a call to the supplier and ask them to have a look at the video.

J hn

 

[jerrysimon]

The noise seems to be coming from the back wheel/crank not the front

Ah unless that is the pedelec kicking in the front mechanism which is faulty and therefore not turning the wheel. Those motors are really easy to take apart. I had one fail soon after I purchased one from Alien and they sent me a new inards which was a simple case of taking the old one out and putting in the new one incl some rewiring of course. As flecc said gearing parts are also more readily available for this popular motor than others.

Regards

Jerry

 

[NRG]

Before you take the motor apart, use a multimeter to check for a short on each motor phase. Measure between the phase and the negative terminal on the controller, if there's a short the FET pair driving that phase needs replacing. Test, obviously, with the power off.

Does the motor use Hall sensors?

 

[bikemadvinnie]

The motor looks like new, I'm surprised it it is more than a year old. Unfortunately it will be outside warranty, but it might be worth a call to the supplier and ask them to have a look at the video.

J hn

Cheers Aldby, will probably email Jim from alien alright...

 

[bikemadvinnie]

The noise seems to be coming from the back wheel/crank not the front

Ah unless that is the pedelec kicking in the front mechanism which is faulty and therefore not turning the wheel. Those motors are really easy to take apart. I had one fail soon after I purchased one from Alien and they sent me a new inards which was a simple case of taking the old one out and putting in the new one incl some rewiring of course. As flecc said gearing parts are also more readily available for this popular motor than others.

Regards

Jerry

Thanks Jerry,
thats great to hear that there not too bad to take apart, and that the parts are more popular too!
I came up with a theory today -that i had blown a fuse on the battery -since i thought it had charged up v quick, and its like the motor is trying to kick in with not enough power to do so, as some of the battery is switched off!.. but i checked the fuses and there fine! Doh!
The next thing i'll do when i get more time is to fit the throttle on and see if the pedelec function is the problem, i don't really think so though!

 

[flecc]

Stripping the motor details

To strip the motor after the wheel is removed, remove the six crosshead bolts on the side plate, then take off the nut on the opposite side of the spindle, holding the spindle still with a suitable spanner on it's flats. Then with a mallet or hammer give the spindle end opposite the cover end a sharp tap which will break the cover seal, then you'll be able jiggle the cover off with it's internal bearing. Then the whole motor core can be withdrawn from the hubshell. The bearings remain in the hubshell sides but watch out for any shims that belong on the inner spindle end since they correctly register th motor internally and must be replaced when reassembling.

These photos show the motor apart:

 

[bikemadvinnie]

Solved!

Thanks a million folks for all those replies!
After the advice I sent Jim from alien Ocean a mail,the guys at Alien are brilliant! They had a looked at that video & realised it might be a connection plug to the motor -causing it to skip a phase! Sure enough it was! Very impressive assessment from my ropey video!
Again thank you all for that help! I'm almost back on the road, and will be able to fly around to all my favourite scenic spots soon!

 

[NRG]

Good result, I was laying money on it being blown FETs in the controller! Alien, like SJS rock IMHO, great service and always willing to help.

 

[bikemadvinnie]

I did think you were on to it NRG about the motor phases, but the electronics side isn't my strong point! I plan to work on this from now on!..