Recent content by cyclebuddy

The advertisers may just be listing those motors it's more commonly used with rather than showing everything it's compatible with. Bafang themselves don't seem to limit this display only to their mid-drive motors. You could email them and ask. But the first thing to do would be to fully dry out...

Well, the Ado Air 28 in cream is available through Amazon... it comes direct from the manufacturer's own UK warehouse. The reason ADO bikes appear such good value is that there isn't a dealer involved, and that means there won't be anyone local to help you if anything goes wrong... other than...

When you hold the battery button down on many batteries for 10 seconds or more it's either showing the state of cell health (representative of how many full charge cycles it's done/has left... like 4 bars = 80%, 3 bars = 60% etc), or a fault condition. You need to look it up in your bike manual...

According to Amazon's current listing, it's a KT LCD-07 display. Presumably a KT controller too then? It's a 36v system, so if replacement in-frame batteries aren't available, there should be nothing to stop the poster using a generic frame or rack mount battery from Yose etc?

As @Sparksandbangs says above, my own 20" folder ebike - which I can derestrict - achieves at best 18mph. The poor little motor is already spinning very fast in a smaller wheel just to achieve 15.5mph. Then there's the gearing - your 14/28 freewheel is geared for 15.5mph. Even at 18mph with...

Yes, good to know it can be done given the number of Evo/Stow-E-Way bikes in circulation, the number of times these bikes have issues sooner or later, and the intermittent/poor availability and cost of original parts. Given the TranzX system isn't even supported in the UK anymore, you have to...

Maybe you're looking for the wrong battery? According to Volt's website, it seems to be a silver-fish type that's modified - they call it a "Spintech B1". This AliExpress one ships to Canada and the maker says it has an "AI chip" (smart BMS?) specifically, it's a "B1 Spintech 2016-2022 Volt...

It's something I've done frequently; you can easily buy generic 12vDC to 42v chargers specifically for e-bike charging, or use the standard 230vAC to 42vDC e-bike charger with a small £40 300w pure-sine inverter from the camper 12vDC supply. It's not the inefficiency of conversion that you need...

Probably because the current M1 Pro is a totally different bike... 48v electronics rather than 36v with new controller and display, torque sensor rather than cadence, newer 80mm suspension... if you look at it there's little on the current M1 Pro model that's the same as your old, early model...

Well, it IS a problem now because it would likely be flashing an "E" error code; there'll be a look-up table for that that should tell you what the problem is/is likely to be.

Well, that's new information! A battery with low SOH would/should still work, so I doubt three flashing LED's is your problem. Maybe the broken display? Wet? Loose/poor connection(s)?

If the battery still gives you the range you need, then just keep using it. Just be aware that you'll probably need to replace it sooner rather than later. It's only theoretically knackered; the SOH is based on cycle count, i.e. the number of times it's been fully charged and discharged, often...

IIRC, it's either an STL battery or a Phylion. If the latter, then 3 flashing LED's only suggests it's wearing out at 70-80% of as new capacity. The fault table below shows that any error would be indicated by just 1 LED flashing at a time, not 3 together.

The above are for the D1. This for the D2/D2S should be the same - or at least very similar...

I'd be inclined to clean the board up, test and replace the obviously damaged components, then plug it in and see what happens. For an hour or so work with a multimeter and a few cheap caps it may still work.