Show a picture of whatever is flashing so that we know which version you have, and describe exactly which lights are flashing so that we can decode the error message.
That looks like a battery level test button? - Not familiar with your bike tbh but generally the ON button is part of the handlebar display - i/o unit.
What controls are on your bars?
What controls are on your bars?
This is the button to check battery. When you hold it, it turns on the bike. I bought this bike from my friend a year or 2 ago and the screen was broken. So I’ve not used the screen since then and it’s never been a problem. I’m wondering what these 3 loght flash is, and how I can solve this.
Unfortunately, Suntour don't give out the battery error codes. All we know is that it's indicating an error, which is probably a low cell. If you know anything about electrics, you can open it up and test it.
Did it do that after a long period without use?
Was it OK before it did that?
How old is it?
Is your bike still working?
Its a battery issue rather than a bike issue then. gotcha. - as above, also can you confirm the battery pack is fully charged and can you attempt to turn it on off the bike and test the voltage with a multi meter?
Running headless (no display) suggests either a hack, mod, bodge, or blind luck?? testing off the bike simply eliminates that from concern atm.
Running headless (no display) suggests either a hack, mod, bodge, or blind luck?? testing off the bike simply eliminates that from concern atm.
IIRC, it's either an STL battery or a Phylion. If the latter, then 3 flashing LED's only suggests it's wearing out at 70-80% of as new capacity. The fault table below shows that any error would be indicated by just 1 LED flashing at a time, not 3 together.
Any cost of repair is likely to be counter effective if their ae duff cells.
For some of us with knowledge if the battery was ours , we would open it and check the ten cell groups for balance . Dependent on what we find it may be ok to manually rebalance the pack and see if it charges .
For some of us with knowledge if the battery was ours , we would open it and check the ten cell groups for balance . Dependent on what we find it may be ok to manually rebalance the pack and see if it charges .
If the battery still gives you the range you need, then just keep using it. Just be aware that you'll probably need to replace it sooner rather than later.
It's only theoretically knackered; the SOH is based on cycle count, i.e. the number of times it's been fully charged and discharged, often based on a range of between 500 and 800 times depending upon the cells used. That's expected life, not actual.
State of Health (SOH) is just an indication and not an accurate measure of actual battery condition - the BMS is just making assumptions based on count. If the battery has been well looked after (not left overcharged or over discharged for periods of time and not hammered or rinsed by excessive current demands), it may go on for a good while yet.
It might be an idea to check its voltage once it's fully charged. It should ideally be between 41.5 and 42v. Much less than that usually suggests it's near end of life. That's probably a better indication.
Well, that's new information! A battery with low SOH would/should still work, so I doubt three flashing LED's is your problem. Maybe the broken display? Wet? Loose/poor connection(s)?
About the screen. The screen has been broken for like a year now and it’s never been a problem. On google it said something to do with the brake could be a problem. So I fixed the break as the front one wasn’t working and it’s fixed but the bike still didn’t turn on.
Pull the battery and confirm its post charge voltage level, any on bike readings are just rough estimates, use a multi-meter for a real reading. this will indicate the battery health as stated above and confirm your battery is turning on or not.
Well, it IS a problem now because it would likely be flashing an "E" error code; there'll be a look-up table for that that should tell you what the problem is/is likely to be.
Ebike control systems generally employ the display unit to save any and all the configuration parameters for the controller ie wheel size, sensor types, etc and pass these to the controller on the system power/start up.
- Some controllers can be 'bodged' shorting the battery voltage level (often pin#1 red wire) to the battery/lock (often pin#2 blue wire)in the display connection.
This can result in a out of the box, zero configuration applied operation of the controller switched on/off with battery voltage.
- Some controllers can be 'bodged' shorting the battery voltage level (often pin#1 red wire) to the battery/lock (often pin#2 blue wire)in the display connection.
This can result in a out of the box, zero configuration applied operation of the controller switched on/off with battery voltage.
As others have said, it is going to be very difficult to diagnose the issues without a display. Also, without the options a display gives you are probably denied of choices such as assist levels and getting a suboptimal riding experience.
When you say 'fixed the break' what do you mean? The issue with brake and electrics is very different from the mechanical operation of the brake. In addition to its mechanical operation the brake has a sensor to tell the controller whether or not the lever is depressed. If the controller detects an error in this signal it won't let the system work. If you had a display it would likely flash a 25 error message in this case. Without a display and with the system not working it is very difficult to tell whether the not working is due to the brake or due to some other problem.
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