Geebee

It may well be realistic with pedaling , my DIY pedal only velomobile could maintain 40 kph on the flat as a fast cruise and 60 kph was a prolonged sprint speed.

You won't be pedalling much with a single speed. and getting home if you have a failure will be fun if it involves hills due to the above and the 18 kg weight increase. Get the battery the pack as far forward as you can as the weight of the motor is already going to have an effect on handling. Fit 2 good torque arms!!!! It will be a motor bike/trike if that is what you are after. Smoking!

I always try to conduct myself exactly as I would in real life. Assuming Scott does the same I am pleased I will never meet him IRL after the last two posts he has made.

I don't always agree with d8veh but how any forum post can possibly justify a director of a company to resort to this level "It started by deliberately changing my name into a derogatory one," is beyond me.

If you have bad knees just remember to spin as it is very easy to use the seat back to allow you to grind up hill further damaging your knees. Fit clipless pedals, if you foot slips off there is real danger of snapping your shin bone. Hub, mid or crank drive are all viable for trikes, a crank drive will give you a better gear range for speed and climbing and better weight distribution by the time you fit batteries, chain alignment issues don't exist due to chain length. Try to keep weight balance similar to original or 1/3rd per wheel other wise you can cause handling issues especially if to much weight is to the rear as it will reduce the balance as the track becomes narrower due to being a triangle. Also weight added lower down is better. The hub you are looking at weighs over 10 kg without batteries, you will feel this on every bump. The BBS01 is sub 4 kg, I assume the BBS02 is similar and due to being on the front boom basically inaudible to the rider. Look up some youtube videos of the Cyclone, do you want that 6~12" from your ears constantly? I have not ridden a KMX but it is in the high end weight wise, see if you can test drive a few trikes, rear brake is not required and can be dangerous if use other than a park brake or for stunting. Personally I much prefer indirect steering (steering linkages) but it is something you have to try for yourself.

Me too, when I started with e-bikes I had every meter and toy in sight, I discovered I enjoyed riding without any of it as you tend to relax and not try to beat your best time without the reminders. The big bonus is its safer as you spend more time looking at the road and traffic etc.

Great news, with the right gearing they superb. I suspect a BBS01 would have done the job but obviously with less exuberance

That is my pet peeve with most crank drives, they come with gearing that is way to high for 26" drive wheel as it wont allow them to spin freely on hills. Having said that they are well suited to 20" rear wheels out of the box With the 32 front ring you will have similar gearing to my trike, I think you will like it a lot.

At an increased cost a high seated recumbent trike would be lot safer and much more comfortable than a standard trike. Some thing along the lines of the below. http://www.utahtrikes.com/PROD-11619619.html http://www.utahtrikes.com/PROD-11619618.html

Depends on what you want to do with it, I have an original single speed dremel, a high powered variable speed knock off and a dremel stylus rechargeable. Any small or fiddly jobs the Stylus every time not a lot of power but very comfortable (pistol grip) and precise. The original dremel for heavier work and the knockoff for jobs that are really on the dremels limits And a huge amount of tool bits that I grab when they come on sale.

It should be easy enough to make a light road bike into a light e road bike. My recumbent trike is 13 kg standard and with the new batteries about 19 kg, the extra weight is not an issue as the only place it would hurt is up hill or acceleration which it more than compensates for. With the legal crank drive and just the speed limit turned off with a fit rider I would hate to think what king of average speeds it could set due to the aero dynamics of it. This is my trike before I purchased it note the front crank wheel http://www.mrrecumbenttrikes.com/images/shand/5.jpg

As anyone who has changed many tyres would know removing and refitting a tyre can take a lot of strength at times and on a purely practical basis men are more likely to be stronger and there for better equipped to change tyres. I have tyres that almost fall onto the rim and others that have bent tyre levers and taken a lot of strength to fit.

For an Andy?

The video shows a: 1500w geared motor with a rider pedalling hard until the hill shallows out and the hill is a 20% average grade according to strava not 30% https://www.strava.com/segments/640638 No one really thinks hubs can't climb but a legal mid drive will climb steeper with less effort and at a lower speed with the correct gearing and also be able to have a decent top speed. For the average user a powerful legal hub with pedal assist on steep hills will be magic and easier to ride as the gear you are in isn't critical at start up and you have smooth easy gear shifts easier than a "normal bike" for gear changes from my experience.

A more inportant question would be how many KM/miles you will be riding and how hilly? The plus side of the road bike is that you will be able to go on the drops if the wind is bad, bad side poor ride and less puncture resistant tyres. As D8veh said your brakes may be not up to the job of stopping depending on the bike, the road bike I had was barely adequate brake wise with just an 80 kg rider on it. Rim brakes can work well but road bike ones IME tend to be a bit light on.