Is the 250w motor capable of going 20-25 mph with strong assistance from pedaling or will the motor just be dead weight in that speed? My unassisted speed is something between 20-23 mph so I would like a motor that would assist me in that speed, not a lot, just in the headwind.

 

I have a Dahon folding bike which is limited in speed by it's shorter chain and gear setup - before I made it legally compliant, it managed 22mph on the flat pedalling with asistance. On a normal MTB, 25mph would be attainable no doubt, as I've read others here report. My 19.2ah battery helps on hills, because voltage sag has to sag a lot, before it's a problem - the motor has only ever cut off assistance due to low voltage uphill, when the battery was almost completely depleted. Well worth the extra couple of kgs, is a large battery IMHO... plus as capacity decreases over the next few years, my bike will still have useful range.

I have a Dahon folding bike which is limited in speed by it's shorter chain and gear setup - before I made it legally .

What I have read, those speeds from 250w need a lot of overvolting or other tuning? As a noob I should then take a closer look to these. But would the 36v 250w with 15.6ah battery hit over 20 mph without mods? As the controller's rated current is 7 A and max 15 A. And the battery is within these limits. (Yose kit). I would prefer a "easy" way to electrify my bike without mods (other than easy mods from like the displays). I also like to cycle myself so the motor wouldnt have to do so much work. And the bike has 700c wheels and it is a city bike.

What I have read, those speeds from 250w need a lot of overvolting or other tuning? As a noob I should then take a closer look to these. But would the 36v 250w with 15.6ah battery hit over 20 mph without mods? As the controller's rated current is 7 A and max 15 A. And the battery is within these limits. (Yose kit). I would prefer a "easy" way to electrify my bike without mods (other than easy mods from like the displays). I also like to cycle myself so the motor wouldnt have to do so much work. And the bike has 700c wheels and it is a city bike.

 

My kit was from IE Bike on Amazon and it's only a 36V 250W bbs01b with a 19.2ah battery with LG-MH1 cells, just 15A. Unless your donor bike is extremely heavy or has low gearing or something, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to hit about 25mph. Before I knew it was illegal I was whizzing around at 22mph with no problems. But do you really want to collide with something while riding a bicycle at 25mph? Fear of maimage keeps me at a legal 15.5mph these days...

Edited May 13, 20223 yr by guerney

My kit was from IE Bike on Amazon and it's only a 36V 250W bbs01b with a 19.2ah battery with LG-MH1 cells, just 15A. Unless your donor bike is extremely heavy or has low gearing or something, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to hit about 25mph. Before I knew it was illegal I was whizzing around at 22mph with no problems. But do you really want to collide with something while riding a bicycle at 25mph? Fear of maimage keeps me at a legal 15.5mph these days...

I should have said that i am looking for front hub motor. As isn't your mid drive? For my understanding these motors wary a lot and hub motors aren't capable of high speed if they are low rpm (like earlier comments for yose kit suggests).

I should have said that i am looking for front hub motor. As isn't your mid drive? For my understanding these motors wary a lot and hub motors aren't capable of high speed if they are low rpm (like earlier comments for yose kit suggests).

 

Aha! I have never tried a hub drive. I went with mid-drive for less stressful (to the motor and controller) hill climbing and cargo towing. And also because I couldn't at the time find a 20" hub conversion.

I would prefer a "easy" way to electrify my bike without mods

That is good to hear - thumbs up emoji - darn you lacking forum emoji'

 

You will find the YOSE a good kit even with the non-KT system you can always upgrade and tinker as you learn... Why don't you take a look at the ton of YOSE power threads, just pop Yose power in the search most topics have been covered already.

 

23mph yose front @48v circa 220 rpm(36v rated) on a 36v I get 18mph on a 14a max 7a average controller - AH of the battery is capacity not amp rating you need to look at the continuous discharge and nominal discharge rate of any given battery to figure what controller you need - 23-25 mph is enough imo for any off-road private use and it goes without saying 15.5mph is the UK law on roads - on an unrelated note for noobs - I know of a case; 500w motor(320 rpm) 20a controller, 14ah battery 48v a year on throttle only (26mph top speed) heavy bike, new did 35 mile now 11 mile, samsung 30q cells I believe.

on an unrelated note for noobs - I know of a case; 500w motor(320 rpm) 20a controller, 14ah battery 48v a year on throttle only (26mph top speed) heavy bike, new did 35 mile now 11 mile, samsung 30q cells I believe.

 

Whoa... I might have to start dialling down PAS assistance on my bbs01b, as I have it on max 15A 100% "Keep current"nearly all of the time. Cos good batts aint cheap!

"Keep current"nearly all of the time.

Not sure about the technical details when it comes to efficiency curves or mid drives but if you are pedalling and putting in tad of effort then you should be ok, do you have a watts read out on your display? For example I use PAS 5 & pedal a lot however the faster I go the less watts I use, I start at 550w set off and average 300w as I go - 550w~11-13a(nominal @48v) and 300w ~6-7a(nominal @48v) ergo less stress on the battery - the case study I refer too is on all gradients all the time I can only guess as there was no watts read out but it's akin to full throttle no pedalling up a steep hill most of the time and when on a flat it was throttle coast throttle coast max PAS. Also there is nothing to say the Chinese battery maker who supplied the company didn't save a few quid and swap out the cells for lower spec, who actually takes a battery to bits to check the validity of the cells, except a selected few on this forum.

Cool - pop some pics up when done

Hi

Just a couple of photos need to tidy the wiring up

Waiting for a battery bracket because it just

Held with one bolt and strap

couple of photos

Nice - looking tidy - have you got a decent lock? that bright green may attract some unwanted attention. Did you get the torque arm on? Watch out for loose gravel at traffic lights in any PAS level especially PAS 5 from stand still, tbf I do not know how the Lushi controller/lcd is setup up ie default settings out of the box, I do know however they some complex settings are not easy if at all impossible to change.

Hi

Not fitted the torque arm yet I have looked at some settings on YouTube will try the default settings first

The bike is locked in a garage with a alarm and a

Anchor fitted to the floor

I never leave the bike anywhere

Might invest in a good lock any ideas

Neil

Anchor fitted to the floor

Sounds secure.

 

good lock any ideas

Try "the locking picking lawyer" on youtube, some of his early stuff has the good, bad and the ugly on bike locks, mostly short vids. The take away is mainly no lock is 100% I always remove battery unless I can see my my bike and trust(ish) the location. OneGuard or a good shackle lock with a disc detainer core usually deter most, avoid rusty white empty vans with one battery operated power tool in em and you should be good - I live, sadly in a high crime, low policing hood & hate tea leaves.

Not sure about the technical details when it comes to efficiency curves or mid drives but if you are pedalling and putting in tad of effort then you should be ok, do you have a watts read out on your display? For example I use PAS 5 & pedal a lot however the faster I go the less watts I use, I start at 550w set off and average 300w as I go - 550w~11-13a(nominal @48v) and 300w ~6-7a(nominal @48v) ergo less stress on the battery - the case study I refer too is on all gradients all the time I can only guess as there was no watts read out but it's akin to full throttle no pedalling up a steep hill most of the time and when on a flat it was throttle coast throttle coast max PAS. Also there is nothing to say the Chinese battery maker who supplied the company didn't save a few quid and swap out the cells for lower spec, who actually takes a battery to bits to check the validity of the cells, except a selected few on this forum.

 

I've not got that kind of display - shows voltage and some kind of representation of battery power, but that's it for the DPC-18 display, I think. The battery charges to 42V after a year and a half of decent use. The last time I looked at the ODO it was 1,563 miles or so. Actually, the battery charges to a skippy 42v/41.9v - the display toggles between those two numbers rapidly, after a full charge. Oodles of counterfeit batt cells about, so I've read. I should imagine fakes would give themselves away by offering lower range, power and lifespan. So far range is what I'd expect at my heavy usagle level, but as you say, one can't know without taking the battery apart to test cells? I get 45+ miles making zero effort, using the full 15A on PAS. And that's the way I like it, unless it ushers the battery to an early demise... Any less powerful PAS, my knees do not like! A new battery purcahse somewhat sooner than expected, is the price I'll pay for less painful knees...

Edited May 14, 20223 yr by guerney

I know what you mean seen to many crime

Videos where they turn up with battery operated

Angle grinders

Like I said before I never leave the bike unintended

Mainly used for leisure ride where I go out and back and don’t stop

skippy 42v/41.9v

That's about right for 36v, a year+ and some miles covered, so not bad, what cells(brand) do you know? Whether its make any difference, but I always before summer, ride out locally till the battery hits LVC or near as possible, then give it a few hours rest then full 6 hours + an hour on green light, it may or may not add a better cell balance and then most of the time I keep my batteries topped up sometimes full others removed just full, say around 52v[40-41v for 36v] I have 3x batteries 2x36v one was one cell missing from the start but effectively it was free so can not moan, the other 36v is now 7 year old although not used as much I tried to run it for a miles a week but it still does 20 miles(25 miles new) and charges to 42v the other 41.5v - my 48v-er 2 year old and does 30 miles charges to 54.6v and uses LG blue cells a Chinese version made by LG for the internally business to OEM suppliers (apparently) sold by BMS battery, cheap as well, but no issues.

 

45+ miles

What AH is that, that's awesome mileage, although mid drives are better, I think for range.

 

Oodles of counterfeit batt cells about

There is defo some messed up people selling counterfeit, however I can not see them going into ebike batteries and they are normally some small cell in a shell and are an actual con/scam - low spec are normally made for cheaper power tools, single 18650 flash lights and the vape pen market and are not inherently bad but not designed with high amp draw that motors use some do make their way into ebike batteries and some poor soul somewhere will get one, I would hope that anyone in the ebike supply chain worth their salt would stay clear. I think, I could possibly be talking out of my bottom now from bits I picked up in the early days of vaping.

 

Angle grinders

Yep defo worth spending a few quid on a harden steel lock, it may not stop em but they may think twice and pick an easer mark. The amount of people I see with a £700+ bike and a 99p home bargains combo lock is truly mind blowing.

That's about right for 36v, a year+ and some miles covered, so not bad, what cells(brand) do you know? Whether its make any difference, but I always before summer, ride out locally till the battery hits LVC or near as possible, then give it a few hours rest then full 6 hours + an hour on green light, it may or may not add a better cell balance and then most of the time I keep my batteries topped up sometimes full others removed just full, say around 52v[40-41v for 36v] I have 3x batteries 2x36v one was one cell missing from the start but effectively it was free so can not moan, the other 36v is now 7 year old although not used as much I tried to run it for a miles a week but it still does 20 miles(25 miles new) and charges to 42v the other 41.5v - my 48v-er 2 year old and does 30 miles charges to 54.6v and uses LG blue cells a Chinese version made by LG for the internally business to OEM suppliers (apparently) sold by BMS battery, cheap as well, but no issues.

 

 

What AH is that, that's awesome mileage, although mid drives are better, I think for range.

 

 

There is defo some messed up people selling counterfeit, however I can not see them going into ebike batteries and they are normally some small cell in a shell and are an actual con/scam - low spec are normally made for cheaper power tools, single 18650 flash lights and the vape pen market and are not inherently bad but not designed with high amp draw that motors use some do make their way into ebike batteries and some poor soul somewhere will get one, I would hope that anyone in the ebike supply chain worth their salt would stay clear. I think, I could possibly be talking out of my bottom now from bits I picked up in the early days of vaping.

 

 

Yep defo worth spending a few quid on a harden steel lock, it may not stop em but they may think twice and pick an easer mark. The amount of people I see with a £700+ bike and a 99p home bargains combo lock is truly mind blowing.

 

I forgot to mention it's a 19.2ah battery, which [mention=9614]Nealh[/mention] correctly deduced as containing LG MH-1 cells. After the 1 year warranty ran out, I opened it up to discover he was correct. I ran the battery down completely once, reasoning that with laptop and phone batteries one doesn't always get full capacity, until that's done at least once... and the battery got very hot. I might do that again - the 45+ mile journeys are rare, primarily because of concerns of causing battery damage. I do hope my LG MH-1 cells are not fake! I've just looked at the ODO: 1,581 miles. I'll be in the maket for a spare battery in about a year, and would get a em3ev if they were compatible with my existing battery mount. I dicovered last night that because my battery is on the rear rack, it's incapable of ascending a 45 degree incline. The motor had no problem, but the balance of the bike was thrown off by the rear rack battery. Having spent hours digging, I enjoyed my recovery kebab on a hilltop overlooking the city, basking in moonlight... and took these 30 and 60 second exposures with my phone. On long exposure, reflective areas glow, and the aluminium frame reflects green reflected moonlight from the grass. It's great that my bike still folds for train and bus commutes.

 

 

 

Edited May 15, 20223 yr by guerney

I enjoyed my recovery kebab

Always nice to munch a kebab on a cool early summers eve! That's a decent AH battery - Em3ev I looked into that, aren't they in the US? Customs, shipping & VAT if they can accommodate your battery case. I am "dolphin" case more common in the early years of ebikes but not often used anymore due to the spacing and demand for larger capacity batteries like the hailong, although I could change my rack/case at any time in all fairness if the noose wasn't tightening around my wallet as much and for the foreseeable future. However I do feel that until all my batteries actually die I won't bother. And yes defo the ecar world they recommend maintaining a charge between 40% and 80% whether that includes low voltage cut off or not they never say. TBF doing a long trek doesn't really harm your battery, this is "ME" science and experience talking, as the voltage drops the less stressed it becomes and the controller and the BMS has an allocated low voltage number in the 36V it will be 31v(ish) controller and 29v(ish) bms so it'll cut out way before any harm can take place and as you mention it is recommended for 2 cell mobile phones.

Always nice to munch a kebab on a cool early summers eve!

 

Like a wild fox, I was devouring my delicious kebab in almost complete darkness... as moonlight winked on and off between clouds. But that's the wonder of long-exposure photos! Left long enough, moonlight looks like sunlight, which is of course what it mostly is.

 

Em3ev I looked into that, aren't they in the US? Customs, shipping & VAT if they can accommodate your battery case. I am "dolphin" case more common in the early years of ebikes but not often used anymore due to the spacing and demand for larger capacity batteries like the hailong,

 

I both like and dislike the sacrificial safety feature of the Em3ev batteries - it sounds like a good idea, but also sacrifices battery capacity when that happens. But would the completed taxed and customed to hell price be higher, than these expensive batteries from the UK? I believe the mounts are compatible with mine - at one stage, they did have a lot of measurements on their website. I'd have to check polarity, if I ever do manage to rustle enough sheep to buy one of these:

 

 

https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/product-category/ebike-battery-pack/hailong/36v-hailong/

 

 

And yes defo the ecar world they recommend maintaining a charge between 40% and 80% whether that includes low voltage cut off or not they never say. TBF doing a long trek doesn't really harm your battery, this is "ME" science and experience talking, as the voltage drops the less stressed it becomes and the controller and the BMS has an allocated low voltage number in the 36V it will be 31v(ish) controller and 29v(ish) bms so it'll cut out way before any harm can take place and as you mention it is recommended for 2 cell mobile phones.

 

Low battery protection level is set at 31% on my controller, and I have no idea what it's set for on the BMS. (I only set the Current Limit to 20A to see if I could, but it's 15A)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I could ask the seller, if he's still willing to chat to me, now that the warranty period has finshed. He did offer to sell me a spare BMS, so perhaps he might.

Edited May 15, 20223 yr by guerney

Hi

Just a couple of photos need to tidy the wiring up

Waiting for a battery bracket because it just

Held with one bolt and strap[ATTACH type=full" alt="4F871984-135E-43F4-965A-EECC717649A5.jpeg]46954[/ATTACH][ATTACH type=full" alt="33E2522B-D573-4912-9301-08677F6E48C9.jpeg]46955[/ATTACH]

Photo of the brake sensor cutoff

brake sensor cutoff

Man I wish mine looked that neat!

Low battery protection level is set at 31% on my controller,

Is that win7 omg long time no see? That is 31v cut off about normal then, your controller will be 32v or the same as the BMS, I am not over sure if the BMS supersedes the controller in some setups or of they work as a failsafe for each other. On the KT I can have the controller or the LCD control LVC and if they fail the BMS will hopefully kick in to protect the battery.

 

Nsat batteries are pricey but I suppose you pay for quality, however when I had a few quid before I went 48v I emailed them for a quote and if they could accommodate my case requirements, before supply shortages were even a thing and they didn't really seem interest, so I saved a ton of cash and went with BMS but I think they got supply issues because most of the stock is out.

Is that win7 omg long time no see?

 

Yes - I refuse to use Win 10:

 

https://www.grc.com/never10.htm

 

It might have become more stable since the last time I looked, but everything else about it is too much of a mess or downright sinister for my use. I'll run Win 7 Pro in a virtual PC for years, but for now it's on the fastest bare metal I could assemble capable of running it, that I could chuck together at the time.

 

That is 31v cut off about normal then, your controller will be 32v or the same as the BMS, I am not over sure if the BMS supersedes the controller in some setups or of they work as a failsafe for each other. On the KT I can have the controller or the LCD control LVC and if they fail the BMS will hopefully kick in to protect the battery.

 

Only two wires exit my battery - in theory it's possible for it's BMS to transmit data, rather like the internet can be made available using power socket adapters within a house, but I don't think mine does. I guess the BMS's lvc will do the job if the controller's lvc fails.

 

Nsat batteries are pricey but I suppose you pay for quality, however when I had a few quid before I went 48v I emailed them for a quote and if they could accommodate my case requirements, before supply shortages were even a thing and they didn't really seem interest, so I saved a ton of cash and went with BMS but I think they got supply issues because most of the stock is out.

 

Email is handy, but with a UK company I'd just ring someone up for a chat, in case the person answering emails is a numpte. Then I can use social engineering to get them to reveal their bank account number and sort code the information I need.

 

Cheers, I'll deffo have a good at BMS.

on an unrelated note for noobs - I know of a case; 500w motor(320 rpm) 20a controller, 14ah battery 48v a year on throttle only (26mph top speed) heavy bike, new did 35 mile now 11 mile, samsung 30q cells I believe.

 

This is great! Means e-scooterists will be burning through batts at such a high rate, that they'll see reason and get an ebike.

I refuse to use Win 10

:pMay god have mercy on your soul with win 11 - tbh I said the same about win 7 I despised it with a passion no XP lol however win 10 gets on my mammary glands when it comes to rebuilding MBR and general trouble shooting.

 

I always assumed the BMS just had a chip in it to monitor voltage, balancing etc allowing a basic low voltage protection to kick in from an internal sense wire - I also only have two battery wires. I have never really look to deep into BMS, electrical tinkering is not one of my virtues.

no XP lol however win 10 gets on my mammary glands when it comes to rebuilding MBR and general trouble shooting.

 

I still use XP, for software which will not run on anything else, not even the emulators. Why would you need to rebuild the MBR?