Look what came today yose 250w front hub

With 36v 15.6ah battery

Is that front? it looks like mine, I run it at 48v. I did it 2 years ago and it's still strong, the down side for YOSE is now they don't run KT controllers. Nice to have something shinny and new, looks good.

Yes it’s the front hub

Just need a new tyre and wheel tape I bought a crank

Puller of Amazon and there’s one in the box

Never mind it’s a spare got a torque arm as well

And a disc rotor as mine is on splines and got hydraulic brake sensors

Edited May 5, 20223 yr by Neilgtis

crank

Puller

Darn, surprised no one mentioned you get one with the kit, however its not the best single use if it works. That's the beauty of KT I already had a easy fit PAS with a split magnet.

 

Brake sensors are the best imo, to be fair I've had the same pair since my first ebike, I purchased a spare set 2 years ago when I thought mine had died, turn out to be the 4 to 1 cable at fault

 

No wheel tape that's odd, I'd use elecy tape however I've never test that idea.

Best to get a decent tyre, I use slime in an innertube, it should get you home in a pinch. Halfords used to do one made in Sri Lanka however the country has one bust and Halfords discontinued the product.

The instructions say use the old wheel tape

Will look in the box

I have ordered a schwalbe black jack as the bike as them already

Neil

schwalbe black jack

Defo can't beat matching tyres Looks like a good tyre, I use the same brand land cruiser.

 

Oh yes old tape from the wheel you take off, you would assume a little wheel tape wouldn't add much extra cost to the final product or maybe they are doing their bit for the environment lol.

Hi

I am slowly putting the kit on the bike waiting for a tyre to come

Am I thinking correctly if I put all the bits on the bike connect all the cables but leave the front wheel out of the forks and connect the battery will the thumb throttle spin the hub if I hold the wheel

I just want to try everything

Neil

but leave the front wheel out

I wouldn't - there will be a lot of torque even on PAS 1 - or worse throttle on your system could go full whack - if you really want to test the motor without tyre, I normal flip the bike upside down, keep the kit, LCD and battery off bike so you can see the LCD, place the motor in the forks and use the nuts to hold it in place I would tighten them but not over tight AND use the anti-rotation washers, test the best fit for your dropouts, anti-rotation washer on the inside of the forks or the outside and make sure everything looks flat mounted to the dropouts. Check the wheel by hand to see if it clears the forks and make sure cables are clear of the spin.

 

I change my forks from suspension to steel, my old forks fitted anti-rotation washers on the inside but the steel forks they did not feel right on the inside but mounted well on the outside

Here's a rough example - skip to 8.55

I wouldn't - there will be a lot of torque even on PAS 1 - or worse throttle on your system could go full whack - if you really want to test the motor without tyre, I normal flip the bike upside down, keep the kit, LCD and battery off bike so you can see the LCD, place the motor in the forks and use the nuts to hold it in place I would tighten them but not over tight AND use the anti-rotation washers, test the best fit for your dropouts, anti-rotation washer on the inside of the forks or the outside and make sure everything looks flat mounted to the dropouts. Check the wheel by hand to see if it clears the forks and make sure cables are clear of the spin.

 

I change my forks from suspension to steel, my old forks fitted anti-rotation washers on the inside but the steel forks they did not feel right on the inside but mounted well on the outside

Thanks for your response will it be ok to put the bike on a bike stand with the wheel in the forks

It’s the same has what you say but the right way up

Neil

Here's a rough example - skip to 8.55

 

thanks great video just what I wanted to do

Did you oil your chain

Neil

will it be ok to put the bike on a bike stand

FYI you don't really need to sign each post, just basic etiquette will suffice

 

Yes, that would work, just be mindful of cables, forks and brakes jamming the wheel from spinning. There have been many a tales of complete motor write-offs from such things not to mention just tightening one nut or totally forgetting to include anti-rotation washers.

 

 

Did you oil your chain

 

That was my first bike, I never did much at all, now, with a few good YouTube vids, I fit and service my chain, derailleur, freewheel/cassette and brake. I did use the local bike shop(LBS) for the bottom bracket bearings and the front forks replacement, the heavy lifting jobs, I could of done it but sometimes you have to pick your battles. When it comes to gear alignment and derailleur installs/setup I felt the LBS service was a little lacking and I wanted it spot on + the amount of mile you can do on an ebike these service will mount up quickly - Oh top tip always check your nuts:p and your tyre pressures

All working as it should just waiting for my tyre

Then I can put it altogether with the brake sensor’s

Neil

Cool - pop some pics up when done

Will do

That's the same one I got, it's brilliant for the money! The manual for the LCD kd21c is a pain to find though, lots of manufacturers use the same LCD but with different stock settings and slightly different menus. I'll upload the one that works with your LCD.

Specification-KD21C-EN-JOBO LCD display.pdf

I purchased a rear 350w YOSE and wasn't impressed with the quality, however my 250w front YOSE is premium quality and has done over 10,000 miles. This was my backup motor while I had some spare cash, but now it's me daily driver. Mine however is all KT and running at 48v so I have more choice of user replaceable parts & it goes a little quicker due to the 48v coursing through its veins. Personally I would recommend going KT & 48v. I run a dual voltage controller so if my 48v is dead I can just pop in my 36v and go a steadier pace, of course my batteries are the same style; "dolphin" case.

That's the same one I got, it's brilliant for the money! The manual for the LCD kd21c is a pain to find though, lots of manufacturers use the same LCD but with different stock settings and slightly different menus. I'll upload the one that works with your LCD.

Thanks will have a look just need to change to mph

For now

Neil

Hello, have you guys found out that the 250w is enough for you power/speed wise?

Hello, have you guys found out that the 250w is enough for you power/speed wise?

Yes, but I can see it won't be for many. (Of course, that's 250w nominal continuous rating; most 250w motors can give 500 to 750w peak)

Hi. Anyone know the rpm of the newer yose 250w kits? I am in a position at the moment that I have both a 2-3 year old yose 250 front wheel (700c)and an xf07 side by side and am comparing both. Both wheel hub motors actually look identical with identical patterns. The only noticeable difference is the extra thin lock nut on brake side of the xf07. Both have 15 A kt controllers with front lights.

However, the Yose motor is rated at 210 -220 rpm whereas the xf07 (pswpower) is rated at 270 rpm. (all at 36v). The 270 rpm is way faster as expected whereas the 210 rpm power curve starts to taper down beyond 20 km/hr.

I am trying to make up my mind which I like best. Whereas the 270 rpm is faster, I notice that both the hub and controller get fairly warm/hot at the slightest hills. Also if you have speed, you tend to use it and this tends to use battery power. (about 25% extra in my case)

The slower 210 rpm (yose) motor and controller seem to always stay cool, except on steep hills. The motor power starting to decline at 20 -22km/hr tends to save on battery and I get a much better range, so this makes the 210 rpm a better buy in many respects, especially if you want to stay within legal speeds or am a lazy/easy rider like me. But if you wear Lycra or like speed ( and have legs), go for the faster motor. (imo)

 

PS. To every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction (Newton) and most of the reaction/recoil of the motor is taken internally on where the clutch is anchored to the axle on the left solid axle side of these motors. Not tightening this nut (on the solid side) properly ( or say fitting a torque arm to the weaker hollow right side only) means that the weaker (and hollow ) sections of the axle has to take almost all the reactive torque and I suspect this can lead to axle failure/breakage.

Edited May 12, 20223 yr by Sturmey

I think the new yose hubs are 210rpm.

The reason the 270rpm gets warmer is it isn't as efficient on hills, it terminal speed is higher so one needs to also maintain a higher rate of climb speed.

On reason why a low rpm hub is always recommended for hills.

Hello, have you guys found out that the 250w is enough for you power/speed wise?

 

Yep. I really wouldn't want to go any faster, and it copes with all the steep hills I have found this far.

Yep. I really wouldn't want to go any faster, and it copes with all the steep hills I have found this far.

Is the 250w motor capable of going 20-25 mph with strong assistance from pedaling or will the motor just be dead weight in that speed? My unassisted speed is something between 20-23 mph so I would like a motor that would assist me in that speed, not a lot, just in the headwind.

Is the 250w motor

A geared motor should not drag once "off" power, mine reaches 35 mph down hill and with the right bike gear ratio one can pedal as fast off power as their legs will allow, on a good day I cut power and go about 23mph pedal power alone. I say PAS 5 is "head wind mode" in the winter.