Snapped lug on bbs02 - can I reattach somehow?
- Thread starter jayhay
- Start date
Pics would be good for sure. Is it the front one? Is making an extended 5mm thick steel gasket to sit between two rubber controller gaskets, bolted through the controller onto the casing, with a hole in the extended part, a sensible suggestion? You may need to add washers over the hole on the extension perhaps, to push the mounting plate over a bit. Also longer bolts, to bolt through the controller. Can't visualise it because I don't have a BBS02, and I haven't seen that part of my BBS01B for ages.
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Best use the picture frame icon, if uploading large images, rather than dragging and dropping into your post.
Apologies struggling to upload pictures for some reason. It's the front one. The other one is inset in casing but the broken one sits on top of casing more like an eyelet . Your solution may work, if only I had a clue what you were talking about lol. I can't picture the rubber controller gaskets you mention
That front eyelet does look flimsy. Your controller is bolted onto the motor casing, and in between there's a rubber gasket to keep water out. My suggestion (which could be a terrible one), is to make a part which is roughly the same shape as controller gasket, using 5mm thick steel sheet, but with an extended part at the top to bolt through, replacing the function of the broken eyelet. You'd need two gaskets instead of one, to keep water out. It's the same rubber gasket for the BBS02 and BBS01B, and the controller is bolton on through. But there's bound to be better suggestions.
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Aluminium, so forget welding. Doing a proper welding and heat treatment job will cost more than a new motor, a bodgeitandscarper weld probably won't last long.
It might be possible to make a steel or thick aluminium alloy ring and tie into the bolts that hold the casing halves together, but I suspect they are quite small so not ideal. Alternatively a ring clamped around the casing- the fins would need to be removed - with a lug to match the existing lug.
New casing is the obvious solution: Bafangs are usually good for spares aren't they?
It might be possible to make a steel or thick aluminium alloy ring and tie into the bolts that hold the casing halves together, but I suspect they are quite small so not ideal. Alternatively a ring clamped around the casing- the fins would need to be removed - with a lug to match the existing lug.
New casing is the obvious solution: Bafangs are usually good for spares aren't they?
Yes I agree it won't survive a repair.
I've not found any replacement casings yet , I wonder if my best bet is eBay for a broken/blown bang going cheap?
Either that or a retired engineer with a workshop who likes a challenge and understands the likely forces involved.
..but not an engineer forced into early retirement due to incompetence with lawsuits pending #ItWasn'tMe #NeverAcceptCulpability #Ididn'tWorkOnConcode #OrBeagle2 #TheTitanicNeverSankIt'sFakeNewsITellYouThey'reAllAliveEvenTheBandThatWasn'tMeEither #Idon'tEvenExist
Despite searching regularly, I have never seen dead or dying BBSXX(X) motors on ebay, or empty motor cases. I've never seen empty BBSXX(X) motor cases for sale. New motors are available in isolation but they're not dirt cheap, and nearly all appear to have CAN bus controllers, which you can replace with yours, if yours is UART (according to PSWPower).
Despite searching regularly, I have never seen dead or dying BBSXX(X) motors on ebay, or empty motor cases. I've never seen empty BBSXX(X) motor cases for sale. New motors are available in isolation but they're not dirt cheap, and nearly all appear to have CAN bus controllers, which you can replace with yours, if yours is UART (according to PSWPower).
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The lug looks like part of the motor casing. It is thick enough to weld a chunk of metal that you could tap for a new screw, but that would cost as much as a new motor,
JB-weld - best all round epoxy for strength afaik. build up a suitable lump for drilling to replace a missing securing point. after an hour or so when it starts to cure it becomes firmer and more mold-able, though tis may effect the end result so patience and building up a larger mass in layers may be optimal, thorough slicing away excess when curing with a sharp blade should have no ill effects.
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blu-tak or plasticene mold perhaps?
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blu-tak or plasticene mold perhaps?
It doesn't have sufficient strength, especially when you consider the reason for why the lug snapped off. IMHO, you could use JB Weld, but only to glue the lug back on, then it would need drilling and pinning with maybe four 2mm pins. For that, you'd have to remove the motor from its housing. Still, we have no photos. We have no idea of why, how or where it's broken.
Then, you'd have to sort out why it snapped off - probably incorrect spacing unless somebody's going to own up to knocking the motor down with a sledge-hammer.
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