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This kit would be handy for anyone interested in fitting a Bafang or Bafang style mid drive kit. Toolkit for mid drive eBike kit: PANDA MDRIVE, BAFANG BBS01, RELO

Aha, no odometer, how did he know it was 20 miles to work and back :rolleyes:

I heard the previous owner actually did 1 million miles, but clocked it back to 25 thousand to get a good price :rolleyes:

You'll notice the biggest performance loss, in acceleration from a standstill and hillclimbing. I'm guessing it's a direct drive motor, so torque will be pitiful at 15A. It will be important to keep the speed up on steep hills by pedalling more, otherwise you may overheat the motor, due to it...

This may interest some members, but remember to read the rules and privacy policy first. https://comps.whatsontv.co.uk/competition/withENERGIZER_network.php

Looks like it's one of these, if you end up destroying that one and need another Mark. http://www.greenbikekit.com/bafang-bbs-axle-rubber-seal.html You'll get there in the end, electric bikes can be a bitch sometimes.

That's pretty amazing. Looks a bit like a remote control though :rolleyes:

Haibike brand name markup ;)

Yep, totally agree with d8veh, it was my fault for not capping that unused connector.

See what you mean now Mark. Guess Bafang did a waterproofing revision somewhere along the line.

See the comments don't favour the cyclist in the slightest :eek:

Got caught out in the mother of all rainfalls today. I usually head for cover in these instances, but I wasn't near any and the bike got a drenching. Heading home, the power was intermittently cutting out, then it finally cut out totally. The display was still on, but the battery symbol was...

I don't personally use this track and rarely see any other electric bikes on my travels, so it just shows how much damage all mountain biking is doing.

I was intrigued to see what was inside my old battery. It is a 2-POWER battery, same as my new one, and they state that Japanese and Korean cells are used. Well, they are true to their word with Samsung 18650-22F inside the casing. Also, what looks like the world's tiniest BMS in there too.

Kenda tyres, well that's yer problem right there :p

This is getting mysterious, as it really isn't that difficult in removing the gear assembly. Some of the later models have a revised silicon seal to help prevent water getting into the bottom bracket. I wonder if that is what you are trying to remove? Anyway, that seal should just come out...

There should be no need to brutalize anything to remove the large gear assembly, unless you bought this second hand and the previous owner smothered it in sealant.

Ehhhh?? Is yours a BBS01/02 or a BBSHD?

Difficult to see on your pic, but once you get all that crud out, I'm sure you'll spot the first one. I say first, because on mine there's a thin lock nut, then a silicon washer, then the second thicker lock nut. The first time I removed the gear assembly, the lock nuts were loose anyway. You...

Don't even need a special tool. I use a pair of long nose needle tip pliers. Bought mine for £1 from Wilkinsons. Just make sure the tips of the pliers are small enough to fit in the slots of the lock ring. Loctite threadlocker blue 242 is your friend when you reassemble. The lock rings don't...