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As title. Received three little metal things in with a new Shimano 160mm rotor. The rotor already on there, doesn't have anything like this, so questions are; what are they for, where do they go, and do I really need to fit them?

Got new rotors and pads arriving this weekend. Lots of opinions on the web, about whether to break in new rotors and pads. Some say it's essential, some say just go out and ride. So, who on this forum do break them in, and do you think it helps with braking efficiency and noise?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/40351409

As brianw mentions, it's well worth adding a cassette tool, plus chain whip, to your toolbox, for times when you need to replace the cassette, or check its tightness. Deluxe Freewheel Bike Chain Whip Cycle Bicycle Cassette Cog Removal Remover Tool

With a forum name of DrMagical, I thought you were gonna supply a solution to the problem :rolleyes:

All tongue in cheek BigG. I wouldn't want to scare off any potential cyclists to our scenic part of the country, so I won't mention the bear traps :rolleyes:

Is that aimed at dog owners, horse riders, surfers and beach bums.... or cyclists?

The reason I was less concerned about taking the MAC on the beach, than the BBS02, was because it had a throttle and didn't rely on the derailleur. None of the regular derailleur parts needed to move to propel the bike, reducing the effects of any sand grinding down the drivetrain.

My personal experience at my local beach is as follows. This is riding with MTB knobbly 26" x 2.0 tyres and BBSO2 motor. On patches of beach where the sand is wet, then it poses little problem. Traction is reduced at the rear wheel, but steering is still direct and fairly safe. On the other...

I just thought I would post a couple of pictures of what our local scallywags get up to when they're bored :eek: What does a scally do when they have run out of beer bottles to smash all over the cycle path? Resort to cracking open pots of coloured paint of course :p And, when a scallywag's...

Ooooh, you kinky devil :p

Woah, that'll be one heavy muther mofo, and expensive :eek: If you want to keep your existing battery, then look at the likes of the Bafang BPM hub motors, or Bafang BBS02/HD. Then you'll have the best of both worlds, speed plus fantastic climbing ability.

Voltage will increase speed, but won't give you any advantage on hills, due to the fact that the motor will be vastly inefficient when climbing. Most of the extra power will be wasted in heat. The controller you have now is probably at the limit for your current battery. The motor is the direct...

See what the rated amperage is on the controller and replace it with a higher amperage one. For example, if the one you have is rated at 20A, then replace with a 25A or even a 30A controller. I personally wouldn't go above 30A with that battery. You could also do a shunt mod on existing...

Use Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, less chance of dirt sticking ;)

Depends on the quality of the cells contained within the pack. Top quality cells, such as Samsung 30Q's, will provide the power needed and last a long time. Generic Chinese cells, well, don't say we didn't warn you :p

You could try a new chain from a different manufacturer. I swear by KMC.

I'll be honest and say that I doubt you'll find any enthusiasm for solid tyres on this forum. I, like yourself, pondered for many hours, about whether solid tyres were a good idea on my bike. After reading lots of comments on many forums about this type of tyre, I decided against it, and...

No probs. Let me know your address via the conversation feature on this forum and I'll pop them in the post to you. Don't post your address on this thread!

Current PM could do with some more powerrrrrr :D