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My experiences with Royal Mail is the same as others have said on here, they don't normally even attempt to deliver it until the duty and admin fee is paid ! I had it once for a couple of small brass drain taps (for a boat engine) from the USA, which I couldn't get anywhere in this country...

I thought I'd got away with no charges, nothing mentioned at the time of delivery,then this through the post, two weeks later. The unpredictability makes buying from China far less attractive, but no fault of the supplier.

I've just been hit with a Fedex invoice with their "handling fee", so I did a search on the forum and found this thread. So here's an update on the level of the problem, September 2013: "Disbursements out of the scope of EU VAT" GBP 3.90 "Clearance Administration Charge Vatable at 0%"...

That's very kind of you Dave, it would be nice to possibly find out if the unit is faulty or if it's just some weird incompatibility between manufacturers, as you've already mentioned. I'll send you a private message.

I'd already tried all different combinations of cross connecting the three main motor phase leads, but not the corresponding three thinner hall sensor leads. I'd read somewhere that was usually easier to do because they were seperate bullet connectors, unlike the 6 way plug/socket of the halls...

I've just tried that, but no luck. Yesterday I found this US page via a Google search about testing: Ebike Troubleshooting Page The hall sensor tests showed voltage coming back ok, and blown mosfets test showed that they were ok. The link to the "Pinout guide for matching controllers and...

Ok Dave, I'll try that as well. Strange though, the DC volt readings were jumping about nicely on the main motor wires on my old controller, but not a glimmer with the new one. The pas sensor has been fitted and connected all the time. I found another page on the web for instructions on...

After typing that in I realised I could test for myself what the measurement should be. I reconnected the original controller and tested the voltage on the three main motor wires on that. Each one gave about 10 volts with a slight blip on the throttle, with the wheel in various positions...

More test results... (if nothing else, this experience is at least giving me a greater understanding of brushless motors !) The blue wire on my controller isn't connected to anything, but it does have full battery voltage on it, 41.4 volts. I am getting 5 volts on my throttle control red...

I may be wrong, but I get the impression that most of the responses are focused on town and city riding, especially near "dangerous" junctions. I'm lucky enough to have escaped from the smoke now, living in rural Norfolk, after 40 years in London. It was ingrained in me too that Coppers...

More tests today, I found something on the web about measuring the voltage from the hall sensors with the controller switched on. They appear to be fine, you turn the wheel slowly backwards and each phase wire alternates between zero and 5 volts compared to the negative phase wire. I tried...

Thanks Dave, I'll hang on then. Conhismotor have now kindly sent me two PDF files that sound like the ones you mentioned, a series of connections photos and instructions for the display. I did notice one thing that may be worth mentioning, the instructions for the display list the blue wire as...

Thanks for the link to the phase table Dave. I went through that and then tried every other possible combination, but still not a peep out of the motor on pedal assist or throttle, and yet it still works on both when I tried the old controller again. I've run out of ideas now. It looks as...

Ok, thanks Dave. Still not running, so I've been investigating further. I very carefully opened the new controller and had a look inside. I must say, the workmanship is excellent, very nice and neat soldering, and a very pro looking board, much better than the original controller that came...

Yes Dave I did try shorting the red and green, and even tried another spare thumb throttle. It even shows up on the display whenever it is connected or not. There's a row of small icons which are presumably fault indicators. When it's properly connected, it goes out, and the moment any of it's...

Thank you Frank, much appreciated. That will save a great deal of experimentation ! I've now emailed Conhismotor to ask if they have any docs or diagrams, as none came with the parts. Still no joy yet with getting it to spin the motor. :( I've even tried swapping the old controller back in...

I've gradually upped the PO2 setting to about 20 now, and it's reading about 5mph when I spin the wheel by hand, so I guess I'm close. I'll try the throttle shorting and yes, I did just leave the brake connection unconnected, (I was just clutching at straws there !) Interesting what you say...

Thanks Dave, that's got me quite a bit further. I've attached the nearest Conhis diagram, now modified to show my wiring exactly. (they don't seem to show one for it on their website). I've now been through the controller settings, and set them thus: PO1 26 (is that wheel diam in inches...

I've just been trying to connect my new Conhismotor controller to my 750w 36v ebike. I upgraded my other bike to a BMS sinewave controller successfully a few weeks back, but I can't get the motor to spin on this one. My battery powers up the lcd display ok with no errors, but neither the...

Update - The controller and display arrived yesterday, six days after the order was placed. I was a little nervous of going direct to a non-Ebay vendor, with seemingly less safeguards if anything went wrong, but their service has been excellent, the fastest I've ever had from China. Thanks for...