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If it is illegal to run a generator because it's 'manufacturing', then doesn't that make all car alternators and bike dynamo's illegal? I guess the only way to know is to try it, see if you get pulled and what the outcome is. Fancy being a test case? I'm thinking that if you were to get pulled...

That's small, what motor is it? Got a photo?

In pas 5 or on throttle the controller is trying to provide maximum current (depends on the rating of your controller). From your description it sounds like the battery is not capable of delivering this current, therefore the voltage drops and the bms cuts out on low voltage to protect the...

Grinding crank bosses is quite common on here. It can be difficult to get the ground face flat and square, so I marked round the boss rim with a marker pen before grinding. Probably best to seat crank without pas and measure the existing gap. Then measure pas thickness, this'll tell you how...

Speaking as a driver, daytime flashing lights are an attention grabber, at distance, giving me time to adjust, especially if the numpty on the bike is dressed in dark clothes. (Why is it so many mamils dress in dark stuff?) I ride country lanes so, in the dark it's solid front lights only. I...

You don't have to spend thousands. A rear wheel 250w geared hub motor will do all you are asking reliably and with more oomph than you think. Don't be fooled by the wattage ratings of motors - they are pretty much meaningless. What you need to look at is the maximum current that the...

Can't see detail to see if they would fit, but have you considered Magura HS11 hydraulic rim brakes? Just the front would help a lot. They have a good progressive feel and are fairly easy to install if a bit fiddly to initially set up.

With conversion you end up with a bike that you understand. You know where everything is and what's connected to what. Should any component fail you are more likely to be able to find the cause and replace like for like. Conversions are great for the inveterate tinkerer, 'cos there's always...

Never done a comparison 'cause I fitted Marathon plusses and never had a puncture. Have worn one tyre down to blue reinforcement (front hub motor in very hilly terrain) and still not had a puncture. Grip is fine on tarmac, sketchy on gravel - never go on mud 'cause my mom shouts at me !:cool:

Most crank drive bikes are torque sensing, requiring the riders effort to be sensed then a multiple power return given. In other words, you have to put effort in to get power back. Given your condition I would recommend you look at bikes or kits that have a pas system (most hub drives have...

Hang on, what about yer average family saloon that's capable of 120mph? Why the focus on e-bikes when even delivery vans are capble of exceeding national speed limits, let alone urban ones. Seems like it's just how to kill the urban e-bike market with one very expensive, tax payer funded, stroke.

Normally you buy the rack and battery as one item. Or you buy a battery that comes with a mounting kit to fit to an existing rack. If you already have the battery you're going to struggle.

Sounds like the derailleur is not set up properly. Taking it to Halfrauds may not help as they were supposed to have done this in the first place. It's easy enough to do once you've seen it done, there are loads of video's showing how. Here's one :

This goes along with, "We don't sell e-bikes because there's no market for them", as I was told by a guy in Cardigan. I have a Carrera crossfire with a torquey front hub, converted 12000miles ago, ridden on rough welsh roads. The frame hasn't broken yet. I did take great care to fit a torque...

Some pictures would be helpful. Making your own battery is possible, but not cost effective as a one off. You will need a welder as well as a bms, nickel strip, insulating tabs and a steady hand. E-bike batteries (advert on the right) will cell your case for you and arrange courier pick up...

To get best help you need to put up a few more photo's. A picture of the whole bike. Detail of the motor with any markings on it and connector. Detail of battery type, also any markings on it. Detail of bottom bracket area including pas disc. Controllers and displays normally come as matched...

Exactly, with a mid drive, the cadence is what the motor requires, not what the rider is comfortable with. As a hub drives the wheel directly the pedal cadence is irelavent to it, making it a less 'technical' ride. i.e. You only have to match the gear to your needs not the motors.

These motors are direct drive, they are power hungry and inefficient. The spec doesn't say the current rating of the controller but, because of said inefficiency, continuous current draw will be high. Therefore the battery needs to be not only large capacity but capable of delivering a high...

I would agree that hub motor is more reliable. No mysterious algorythms getting in the way, simple pas activation. Mid drive is a more 'technical' ride as gear changing has to be managed to suit the motor's requirements. On a basic hub motor'd bike all the electrics will be generic and user...

Can you be a bit more specific, does the fault only occur on throttle or on pas as well? Rough running on motors is often a wiring fault. have you checked the connector at the motor, is it fully home, is there any sign of heat or mechanical damage? The other possibility is that it's a hall...