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Hi Andy, I'm not challenging the above but as one who has never had to service hydraulic brakes, I'm curious as to what are the perils of using copaslip (for when I do end up with said brakes)? Cheers,

Ah gotcha - go for it then. There's some absolute tosh talked about mid drive motors leading to excessive drive train wear. Drive train wear is directly proportional to the power put through it (obvs) whether the power comes from your legs or the motor or a combination of both Clearly though...

I know nothing about hub kits - far too complicated for my limited mind :confused: By power based assist, do you mean torque sensing (rather than cadence sensing as used by Bafang hub motors)? You could make things much simpler with a TSDZ2 mid drive kit with OEM display (and it's torque...

Ah right - try this tiny bit of info to see if it helps: The relationship between amps and volts is defined by Ohms Law - you don't need to understand this law but if you do, you'll find it useful in understanding these things more clearly when you buy a battery it comes at a nominal voltage...

The device you need is often described as a coulomb meter - there are many different options - do a google images search and on Ali Express to see the different versions. Some people find a suitable type and mount them on their bike whilst I have one on a home made test board and every time I...

Lots of things to think about - here's another one: To get 60 miles out of a 400Wh battery you'd need to draw 6.67Wh/mile or less from it. I have a TSDZ2 mid drive (36v 250w) and I typically burn 6-7Wh/mile as I nearly always only use the lowest power setting (ECO) Thus if you do only get a...

Tandem Braking - I've no doubt they existing but I've never seen a tandem with two caliper brakes on the front and I've been riding tandem with other for 15+ years. On our tandem we have caliper brakes front and rear and they are excellent but that's no doubt down to them being Magura HS33...

On the face of it I reckon that's a great bike for a conversion. Obviously you need to check it out as you would any bike in terms of whether it's mechanically sound, the frame is the right size for you and you are comfortable riding it. A good price too.

BMS True enough which is why I like to use BMS modules that have an on/off switch to mitigate the risk of doing that.

I'm with you on only applying power when you need it for the benefits you describe I was out last week with a group doing a ride that was a bit longer than the range I knew my battery would give me I have a tsdz2 with the simple vlcd6 display which places the controlling buttons within thumb...

Before I commence my next battery build I'm wondering whether to use a common port charge/discharge version or a separate charge port version? Apart from maybe the convenience of one vs the other as in reduced number of connections, space, size and so on, are there 'electrical' or other reasons...

What a great example of forum support and customer service - magnificent

And these sort of adapters, if robust enough, might well come in handy for straight paralleling. I'm getting one from ebay to check out the build quality but fabricating my own is an option, but at £3.76 inc posting, I'll try a bought one first.

I look forward to hearing comments on this as at the moment my primary pack (Pack A) has a 'same port' BMS whilst I have yet to decide on what BMS for the Packs B and C although my gut feeling is that separate charging/chargers are needed. I'm definitel new to this game (of ebike batteries etc...

That's a great piece of fabrication by Blair - whilst I've only glanced through some of the vids, the only comment by the reviewer (Ron / Spinning Magnets of ES fame) relating to battery paralleling mentions ensuring the battery voltages are equal when replacing any one battery as there are 3...

Thanks @Sturmey for your observations and yes, it's a fair point to make about the longer the ride the more tired you'll get and thus you might seek more electrical assistance as the ride progresses. I'm still reasonably fresh after 40 miles or so (that's often including two coffee/cake stops...

That's a good point which I'd not considered, thanks.

In the blurb for that device it says that both batteries need to be the same voltage - what's not clear to me is by 'same voltage' are they just referring to the nominal battery voltage e.g. it's ok to connect two 36v batteries together but not a 36v and a 48v one, OR do they mean the measured...

Yes, we had the same bike and issue - the joys of a 'cadence sensing' motor system - NOT! As mentioned in post #4, I changed the controlled to a 'simulated torque' KT controller and it transformed the ride experience to something much more enjoyable. The price of the bits then was around £80 so...

I couldn't agree more - I feel confident that I don't fall into that latter category (and I know you weren't suggesting so either, but as we all know, there are dunderheads aplenty in all walks of life - just take a look at www.darwinawards.com to understand that!).