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The machine in that video clearly isn't an EPAC - it's a motor bike. It seems that just because the motive power is electric rather than an internal combustion engine, then the authorities don't/won't do anything about it. Imagine the uproar if our streets and pavements were invaded by...

Paralleling batteries is an oft and well discussed topic and I'm considering a couple of ideas 1. Subject to bench testing and on the understanding that I'll only parallel up when the packs are at the same/similar voltage levels, I'm looking at just using a 'Y' connector - simple, uncomplicated...

I have two bikes each with a TSDZ2 (36v 250w) and a 10s2p battery (Pack A in the pic) that gives me around 45 miles in ECO mode and which I swap between the two bikes as needed. I am very pleased with the 10s2p battery (self built using twenty LG M50LT 21700 5Ah cells) and so I'm going for a 2nd...

I'm not suprised you're getting a hard ride at that tyre pressure - if the tyre rating allows it, drop it first by 10psi and feel the difference and then another 10psi to really appreciate that 80psi is toooo much. Marathon Plus - love them or hate them - I fall into the latter camp as they...

A neat job my man, a neat job indeed :cool:

I discovered after several long tours (2 weeks plus) that the neck pain I got was down to wearing vari-focals as I was craning my neck up a lot to focus in on the nearby obstacles on the road/towpath/bridleways. Fortunately I now no longer need to wear glasses so for me the problem is no more.

First of all, is the chain jumping off at one of the 'end' cogs (called sprockets in the 'trade' :rolleyes:) , i.e. the biggest or the smallest? If it is, then this is down to the 'limit' (of travel) screws on the rear Derailleur (aka rear mech). If all that's double dutch to you, and...

Nice one @portals - let us know how it all works out. And a bit off topic, but I like the look of that particular frame bag - do you still have a link or other reference to point of purchase? Thanks.

Sorry, I can't help you out on this one as I have nver looked into using throttles - but I see you've some input from @saneagle so good luck with the mode.

Hmm, the notion of adding a couple of 2x 5-way JST connectors has its appeal as I already have an imax B6 doing not a lot. Although adding additional (sensing) wires theoretically increases the risk of wire chaffing etc. Some thought needed but thanks for the idea @saneagle :cool:

A jest? If not, why do you think that.

@saneagle - thanks for that. Clearly you've seen many bms in your time so looking at the pic of the one above, I was thinking of reusing it and rebuilding as per the initial design but using fresh cells. I do have another standard bms available but it would be nice to re-use the original as...

Do you mean without removing the tyre as surely you'd need to deflate to get the nipple end of the spoke in?

@Del 80 - congrats on fixing the spokes issue and I know how satisfying it is to get these things mastered - wheel building next? :cool: The first ebike in our family was an ePendleton for my wife - didn't know a hub motor from ...... well, I knew nothing about ebikes then (summer 2020) The...

I think it was around last Christmas time and bored with it all I ordered up a supposed 68,000mAh 36v battery for ...... wait for it ..... £28 inc p&p Now, I had no idea what I'd get for the money but I knew that I would NOT get anything other than complete rubbish, but (a) I was curious and...

I've just looked at the image you posted (below) and if as you say you have one bead in all the way around, then that tyre is wrong for that wheel. Now I now some rim styles are easier than others, but that gap looks too big to me. Marathon Plus are usually annoyingly tight, not loose (I gave...

He means they make the most noise so good for scaring/waking up the dozey/sleepy pedestrians :rolleyes:

That's all good to hear Peter - the cranks need tightening to 40nm and I use a torque wrench to ensure the correct tightness. The large m33 nut used to hold the motor in place using the supplied spanner also needs to be to 40nm but you can't use a torque wrench for this. Once I've tightend this...

If we're talking rim brakes here, then sometimes aligning the pads with some 'toe-in' helps. To do this, loosen the pad, put a thin piece of card or plastic (1mm-2mm) behind the rear of the pad and re-tighten. What your looking to do is get the front of the pad biting just before the whole...

If you can re-use the 26" rim (same number of spokes as 700c wheel) then that should be fine if keeping the cost down. Then of course ensure the Over Lock Nut (OLN) of the motor is suitable for the 26" wheel bike. Then Google how to measure the Effective Rim Diameter (ERD) as mentioned above...